DavidAshton

I do wounder what the wrc are going to do.......its going to be more like citroen vs ford challange next year. Cant even see where any of subaru or suzuki's drivers can go.

Only if you have 2 years driving experince though isnt it?

Only way i can think of doing it is an aftermarket actuator. Dont know if its supposed to work but on mine i have no 1st 2nd gear restriction just full lo and hi boost in all gears. I guess its because its piped in differently.

Im 20 and pay £1500 for the Glanza with flux tpft 1yr ncb and 1 year driving experience, when i was 19 i payed 1900 for the n/a tpft though but that was 1st car just got licence etc. All in my name etc.

I dont get what your saying you want it de restricted but still use the hi/lo button? I have mine hi/lo piped in with a toytuning actuator, no restriction in 1st and 2nd but it has lo boost of 0.6 bar and hi of 0.8 bar. Only way I think u can have Hi/Lo button and no 1st, 2nd restriction.

Just stuck a rev counter in mine today, in the diagostics box there is a port labled Ig, stick it in there and all will work.

Have been having boost creep issues at high rpm whilst ive been using a toytuning actuator straight to the turbo. My mate was convinced a boost controller would sort it out, i was under the impression it would do nothing as the problem would be the wastegate not flowing enough air out and needed porting. So i said id plumb in the hi/lo boost as im sure that is pretty much a boost controller. Just been out plumbed it back in and out for a blast. I was expecting the HI first and second gear restiction to come back into place, nope its none existant.....normal? LO boost now does pretty much wha

Make sure you have a plan for the intake before you de cat, ive had to go back to standard intake set up and standard tmic to stop me boost creeping, even then it still creeps.

Odd question but does anyone who is going to this meet have a spare standard toyota air filter in useable condition that they could take with them and I could purchase off them?

Yeah Starlets are no fun in this weather just spin spin spin. I also discovered how light the rear end is with some lift off oversteer the other day, that was not fun half way through a tunnel.

Crap pic but looks similar to the fag lighter cable to me?

ohhh man you spilled way too soon, you could have had some right fun with this thread.

Dammm that looks bang tidy....make sure all you manchester lot bring him to the hudds meet would love to see this in the flesh.

Ill get them cleaned up this weekend, will there be any marks on them anywhere that should allow me to identify them?

Thanks again much apriciated

Just another quick one, been out to give the brakes a hammering as ive never had the confidence to ever push them... .....when the abs kick in should the brake pedal move like further down in a judder and should you be able to feel the pedal judder and should it make a noise like metal grinding.......or is something fubared?

Never really looked into braided lines so didnt know what i was looking for, kinda pleased but not because my brakes feel crap, my standard n/a felt better than these do. he he secret hidden goodies are mint though...grooved disk will now be top of my shopping list... Thanks

As above standard or braided? Was checking the pads earlier squeaking like a good en and noticed the rear brake line said "REAR" on it, thought surely standard brake lines dont have lables, so scrubbed some muck off and revealed shinyness. Then i though ive no idea what standard or braided lines look like, so any help would be nice.... Fronts Rears

For future reference if anyone else get stuck I found the easyist way to do it is to stick your head where the pedals are and look up. You can then see what your doing.

More of a downdate than an update. Had to remove the rx7 tmic and go back to the standard one. Have been suffering boost creep none stop, hit fuel cut one too many time and could really drive the car to its full potential without fear of fuel cutting all the time, I was shifting up with the boost gauge rather than the rev meter as it got colder. Its not too bad with the standard tmic, dont hit fuel cut anymore, there is less top end power but I could never get to the top end with the rx7 tmic so nothing gained, nothing lost really, but I can now drive the car how it sould be driven.... Anothe

Had mine on this morning on the way to the petrol station. Needle was a few mm above the bottom line. Was quite entertaining though everytime I put my foot down it got brighter.

Yeah will order a C spanner thing this weekend and give it a try. Thanks again Wallace and im sure somebody who has trd's will confirm.

Pav, that has confused me even more. I have TRD's do I adjust them as wallace said or not? I know cusco's are different but what walace said about TRD's made sence to me.

Thanks Wallace, all crystal clear now.

Thanks for the quick and i depth reply. Just to get it clear in my head: A) Is how it should look when its on the car and all tightened up? both rings together? B ) Is what I loosen first so i can loosen C? C) This is what will adjust my ride height, up and down for the different heights? After B is then tightened back up to C to stop it moving. Thats how i read it, that correct? Also once I lower it is it easy to go back up, like id be compressing the spring when trying to make it higher. Well if ive understood it right? EDIT: Bollocks if trd's are not the same.