MR-2

MR2 for nearly 16 years, going to my son or coffin for me

http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-copper-gasket-cement For "mega horsepower engines" Find and ask your own local dealer. You can open and split your metal headhasket and spray cement over every layer, this way can made own thichness gasket to get right squishing area cap, many gaskets have many layers, at least tree most of cases. You can buy 2,0 mm gasket and one layer away, then you have 1,6mm gasket etc...

I have normal spray can VHT, easiest to put on any gasket. Old VHT product not allowed, don't know how new line works or even exist?

http://www.google.fi/search?q=vht+copper+gasket+spray&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivxbOrkaLMAhVnCpoKHeNyDF0Q_AUIBygB&biw=320&bih=508 I always use this, fills small scratches well. VHT Copper gasket spray

Do first some extra bracket side of bumper and after that cut that inside corner away. Maybe use clued metalplate with welded rod to wing, have to figure yourself how You stop vibrating and falling down in highway speeds. Main brackets are front, corners are just support.

I'm fighting with intake manifolds on 4E-FE, maybe go normal cast mani with Glanza tb. Couldn't fit it or 4A-FE tb, flange in tubular mani was little bit narrow from firewall side. Much better torque with tubular, but peak power should be less what I have understanded. Luckily these parts are very easy to change later...

Thanks Pikey009, need more pushing forward One slowing thing is lack of money, have to improvise and time is one problem(10-15h days) and poor rented garage share, wich i'm ending next month. Buildin continues in parking slott. Always remember were people are coming and circumstances, trying my best. Taggy's P7 is sweet

Most of people never care how car looks under, I rate very high people who do hardest places first. So much rusty shits, made of putty and mesh, nice wheels and shiny paints I would never sleep well if I desided to paint car berofe other places, it's called perfectionism, i'm sick My MR2 underbody, same style gona be my P7 before topcoat and sanblasted/powercoated parts.Hard times coming...

Thanks for helping, moderators can maybe destroy this post...

Always wondered how RHD Starlet have different bigger space in firewall, is pedals somehow different angle or more space? There bigger brake booster swap is easy bolt on. In one picture I have GTi Corolla front upper arb, I'm gona use ends for Starlet struts, same bolt pattern, mission impossible to find EP71 turbo Starlet oem here in Finland. Have to install newer engine first, so can see how it must routed, maybe some three bar system via firewall.

Here SW20 MR2 parts. Ment to say about that space needs, that clutchmaster is too close about boosterclock, should man move that or booster more left or forward? One way is to go pedalbox system and get rid of all oem style systems, like rallycars, that case need more cash again, argh.

LHD EP70, hate that small brakebooster corner with clutch master cylinder. Changing bigger brakes and bigger booster or maincylinder needed. How have you solved that? Some have used Nissan master or similar, with or without vacuum booster? I maybe try split AE82 Gti 9" booster and connect it to EP70 booster, don't know yet is it even possible. Also have SW20 booster/cylinder system, have to figure someting about these parts.

Some internet EP70 picture, maybe ukso member, wanna know more about this car or pictures?

That is good reason to go AN8 size, missed that future point, but AN6 oem size is enough for benzin

After buying these, I found same kind of from Fensport, very cheap ones, but rubber bushing :/ http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_39/Category_2/3202

New front anti roll bar/stabilaizer 23mm bushings and bolts/rods. Old one was 30years old and losted one bracket/mount, have to do new ones myself, so simple shape, didn't want by expensive oem. Plan is to buy universal polyurethane bushings for rod, too expensive from Toyota. And arb gona fitted from AE82 GTI Corolla.

Oem Starlet fuel lines is enough for bigger power, only bigger/better pump, injectors and maybe fuel rail is needed, even normal pressure regulator is good enough for most of us. Other reasons are just for nice shiny race looking parts, my opinion just

Glanza injectors are straight fit, but 295cc are too big, overfueling very hard. Wrong thing to start if nothing else done to engine.

Coil is easy to test, because independent unit, just swap one from somebody who has same engine, any friends near? Fuelpump can tested with extra fuelpressure gauge. Big Toyota services had that remote gauge meters and You have to test it under boost specially and at street driving needed with gauge on windscreen wiper. I have burnt few fuelpumps in carburator tank, and those were working normal idle, but dies under boost. First You need motor running naturally, test pump from diagnostic plug, connect E1 and FPR with wire, so can eliminate that it's not dead.

Sometimes tyre body is damaged and very hard to even if wheel is in your hand. It doesn't matter that those are almost new tyres or not hitted anywhere, failures happends without any reason. Triplechek those, ask help if You don't recognize failures, very easy for tyre professionals. After this new balancing, shafts, joints, etc...

Damn that car is sweet, good work By the way, turbo return hose rubber? If is, it won't last long, be carefull, huge fire risk...

Coil or fuelpump maybe, first to check.

Intake manifold VSV for idle don't work? You can test it with multimeter from, just google Toyota BGB info...

Good looking building Fuelsystems inside of car is always scaring me, You ever thinked those if system fails or somebody hits car. And laws in Finland don't allow any cabin systems, must be outside of "firewall" must added, not so easy job on 3dr Starlet. But it's Your car, sorry for comment

Only have changed first joint by far, but steering rack are almost identical, all brackets and rubbers, 99% sure that that part is bolt on. Upper column is still EP70 in my car, I will test that also later, I maybe put Yaris electric ps with adjustable potentiometer.