RoyalDutchie

Now 40 euros + any potential fees and delivery.

SOLD

I've lubed the plug in the floor with silicone grease and dried the wet floor. Went to the garage to let them check for any leaks and they didn't find any. Seems the problem was the plug in the floor or the problem fixed itself somehow. Will keep an eye out for any wet carpet in the coming months.

Still here!

Bump

If Mike can't source them you can always buy them from epc(amayama) https://toyota.epc-data.com/starlet/ep91/61052/chassis/4301/31105H/. LSD seal(90311-50015) will set you back 3.84 gbp + 5.82 gbp shipping.

sorted for now.

I've owned my glanza for a while, but I doubt the OEM actuator is looped correctly. The car has a filter relocation to the front bumper. Currently the top nipple is connected to the turbo and the one on the side is disconnected. Doesn't this create a vacuum leak, and should it be blocked? Have been looking around the forum but didn't find a clear answer. Kind regards, Brian

All memes aside turbocharging your car is not just bolting on a turbo. You will need all the supporting mods that go along. Forged piston rods is one of a dozen mods required to reliably turbocharge your car.

Air filter relocation kit for a 4efte ct9, silicone hose is a 90deg 38mm to 51mm . The alloy pipe is a 51mm 90 degree bend. Bought new but never ended up using it. £15 plus paypal fees and delivery (about £8 shipping with DPD to the UK, other available). Also accept bank transfers(traditional, TransferWise etc) Item location: Netherlands ship: Worldwide

SOLD

Looks awesome, love the livery suits the car perfectly.

The resistance between the anode(red wire) and cathode (black wire) should be more than 0. The wire to the left should have a variable output depending on the floater position. If this is not the case their could be a rupture inside the cable. This can be tested with a multimeter on continuity mode. Do mind that a variable resistor doesn't always give enough throughput to give a signal(Only with minimal resistance ). The best way to test it in this case is to put minimal voltage through the anode and cathode and measure the voltage between them. If it is nearly equal to the input the wir

The glanza non abs and brake booster from na starlets build between 1996 and 1997 are the same(OEM 44610-10370). If their is a true difference between abs and non abs boosters I do not know, they do have different OEM numbers. The internals of the master cylinder are also the same between glanza s/v and the na both for non abs and abs. The only parts that might be different is the reservoir since the glanza has rear disc brakes thus should require a bigger reservoir to feed the rear brakes (they do have a different oem number). Another member might be able to clarify this.

Looks lovely, looking forward to the progress.

Just found out my passenger foot well has wet carpet. The problem it start just after the elevated mounting points for the seat and ends around the plug in the floor. The fluid is not sticky nor smells sweet, so I'm pretty sure it's just plain water. Any ideas or anyone had this before? Thanks

What I currently know: Corolla e12 2002- d4d discs 275mm width, 25mm thick and height of 49mm: need spacers and longer studs(63mm). Will require machined down to 260mm if no st202 brackets are installed. Astra tdci discs 280mm width, 25mm thick height 42.2mm: they require machine down to 275 or 260mm if st202 brackets aren't used, spigot ring required. Corsa C gsi discs 260mm width, 24mm thick and height 41.1mm: Require spigot rings. edit: Just ordered a set of Corsa C 1.8 gsi discs will arrive in the coming months.

Requirements: 25-24mm thick discs, disc height of 42mm(25mm thick) or 41mm(24mm thick), inner diameter(inside of hubs) of the discs should at least be 126mm. Standard discs: diameter: 254mm, disc thickness: 18mm, height: 43mm and a inner diameter of 131mm Known to fit: St202 carriers: Corolla e12 2002- d4d discs: 275mm width, 25mm thick and height of 49mm: need spacers and longer studs(63mm). Astra1.6 diesel discs?: 280mm width, 25mm thick height 42mm, spigot ring required. the outer diameter needs to be machined to 275mm. Stock levin carriers:(spigot r

Finally got it out by using one of my last resorts. I've used acrylic sealant to bond the surface of part 47406b with the brake caliper, after a few days I turned 47406b around and it moved out. After that I removed 47406b with some needlenose pliers without much effort.

Thanks for the help and information anyway. Read that the part is hold in with the rubber around it to a certain extend. Tried to de solve some of the rubber with acetone but didn't seem to make a difference yet. Is it possible to remove the handbrake pin(47621A) without removing part 47406 first?

I removed the part with the spring and circlip, came out rather easy. But 47406 and 47621A seems to be seized up than. can turn both around but they don't just fall out. Also tried to tap it with a hammer but didn't made a difference.

Hi All I'm currently rebuilding one of my rear calipers but I'm stuck on the final component. It's the part marked with red, I can turn it around but can't pull it out. Are there any tricks or tools to make it easier to remove it?