RoyalDutchie

There is a size difference between both. The 4efte should be 212mm while the 4e is smaller? Let me check. If it is correct the clutch you have won't fit the 4efe flywheel

You will need your 4efe flywheel and a uprated clutch at least to cope with the extra torque. Would get a 4efte flywheel and exedy clutch or similar if you keep stock power. But if the funds do not allow it, you can run the 4efe flywheel and clutch, but they do not tend to cope well, with the new amount of torque.

You have an auto 4efte, what I know and have read is that the auto ecu works fine with a manual(needs conformation from someone with experience), you do need to swap the auto bits on the engine with a flywheel and clutch kit. The blue green plug and solenoid is for the charcoal evap unit. solenoid and evap tank location. Not required to run, but I do not like to run one without it. First due to gasoline vapors coming into the engine bay. This system will create some pressure inside the fuel tank etc, due to a spring in the canister, not something to worry about this is normal.

Ciggy update time: The JDM spec do not have a illuminated ring around the 12v ciggy lighter like the EU spec etc. So I decided to install a EU spec one into the glanza. Pretty straight forward they are 100% compatible fitment wise. Just requires a extra wired to be inserted inside the loom which is then tapped into the interior light circuit. The light should be brighter in the car, a led bulb is also an option for the future. Next update I'll show the installation/loom making prosses voor tapping it into the

They sure are, weather been great the past weeks.

I've send you a repair manual some time ago which describes how to replace them the way Toyota intended.

Update time. Changed a few bolts with new oem bolts, also replaced the shifter knob I had and inserted the Toyota cover I had laying about. Refurbed the bumper crash bar(fitted wrong in the initial foto fixed later😞) Starter wasn't really working right cleaned it and replaced the brushed even though they still seemed to have plenty of life left. Pretty cheap at Toyota for 2 euros each so not a major expense. Removed the start without jacking the car up, took some time to remove it and lots of weird angles with the hands due to restricted space.

Thanks for the info lads. I'll try and get one of them if it fails agian. I've cleaned it and replaced the brushes seems to be spinning like it should. Currently have the 0.8kw starter instead of the maybe more common 1.0kw. Spins with a pretty high pitch, seems to right where it should be to me.

Well after having my car sit for a month the startmotor doesn't seem to do the job anymore. After making some weird jackhammer noises and a push start it doesn't do a thing anymore. Checked the startermotor, currently have a 28100-11140 and by the looks of it a 28100-11130 also fits. Any other starters that would fit? Cheers, Brian

Great writeup mate. I guess you need to do a bit more than pulling the passenger pockets out. By the looks of it they are held in with screws as well if I'm not mistaken.

Thanks burty. Pretty sure that would be very useful for anyone who is wondering what the inner sills look like, will be a huge help for me for sure. Would make it much easier for a metalworker to determine how much work it is to get them fixed.

Do like the community as well, proper friendly lads. Ye no problem, I think I'll go and test boxes somewhere in Juli if there is time. C56 etc are impossible to rebuild these days I guess. The C63 should still be plenty I think? They are used by lotuses so a bit higher change of lasting rebuild supplies I hope and a few more gearbox option which all handle about the same as the C56 but with a bit better synchro's and ratios. We still have some paseos here so could help you with a few parts if you are struggling to get them.

Ah I see now. Not to easy to find one but still a lot more floating about here in compression with the c52/56. Did you have to modify the shifter cables to fit the selector arms on the other side of the box? Yup it is the oem TRD diff from a mr2 spyder etc which is made for the bigger crown gear for future use. Do have a TRD one for the c56 gearbox if plans do not work out the way I see them. @Trevstar Thanks. It is pretty clear where they are located I'll check them this week even though I'm 100% sure they have rust there as well. Will be sorted when the outer sill is replaced. Goin

I guess you fitted the Cusco diff inside the c60 with the custom crown gear? Probably worth to put some pics and info on your build about it. Thx mate I'll check the parts site and see where they are before going under the car and spending ages on the cold ground. JR is the only brand here which makes decent reps and jap styled wheels,, probably have them this year.

The cusco lsds are very good unit, but overkill for me. A helical one with worm gears is the one for me pretty sure I wont be going to track often. Pairing it with a set of good compound tires and a bit wider wheels and tires than I have now should do the trick. The thing you describe sound like the dreaded mr2 snap oversteer😅. Thinking about getting a set of jr3 (7j) wheels with custom pcd so it isn't multi pcd like most and the example below. Checked the sills with a borescope and the outer and inner sills have some major corrosion. Already have the new outer sills the inne

No problem mate, will keep going on with the project and slowly restore it to a better car. Neat little machine, never expected the starlet to be like this.

Amazing build @Trevstar. So much eye for detail it is unreal. Hope the engine work pays off big time so much work into the gearbox and head.

Past few days I've been blasting and coating some bits to get them back to spec. Primed the brackets for the bumper with a zinc coating (pretty soft don't use this, go with 2k epoxy primer) which should last for some time(tested to last 500 hours with the salt spray test). Coated the new filler neck guard with a layer of perma film which should make it last and resist stone chipping. Made these inserts for sandblasting the brackets from thermoplastic. Pretty neat stuff for blasting for sure. Also redone the wipers came out very clean hope

The quotes are there for a reason, I do not trust every company on there opinions about things, of course I do not know everything just yet myself. Wavetrac doesn't add a coating to the gear but rather adds a surface between the housing and the gears displayed in the image below(the yellow bits are carbon. I'll get back on this topic by about July once I have graduated on the topic of embeded engineering🎓🤓. I'm interested in the laws of nature and chemistry. Pretty sure torque is based on friction, but can't guarantee this. Let's postpone this for later. Note: The li

@Trevstar No problem mate, I'm all in for information. There is a reason why I have a helical instead of a plate clutch. This car is going to be made for fast road use. The IIRC parts was meant for a video from Wavetrac where they "explain" why they use carbon faces to prevent the gears from "polishing" the housing tus reducing friction and reducing the consistency of the diff. These faces are actually between the diff housing and the top or bottom of the gears. I guess Wavetrac is a company which know about diffs since they develop them🤣. Since the superfinish would polish the top and b

Should have a polishing tub somewhere for small parts, just need the correct media to polish parts. Ideally something to clean/polish bolts and sandblasted parts so they can be easily plated without requiring to do everything by hand. I guess superfinish is a bit beyond a diy job? Not sure if superfinish would be something which is beneficial for a helical diff since it relies on friction iirc.

Thanks mate, will try to separate it with some plastic chisels and see how they hold up. I'll check the super finish, is it about the same as WPC or does it go about the treatment in a different way?

Thanks mate. I think I removed the screws(pic below) from the diff but something was still holding it. Only the tapping is left now or am I missing something? Thanks for the info on the cams, I do see and hear mixed things about the chipped lobes. It seems weird Toyota would put something like this out. These cars a budget build however so not weird if the casting have some weak spots due to cheap casting and grain structure. Did enjoy tinkering with the catch can to get it to the point it is now.

Amazing, bay really cleaned up well. The intercooler route seems to fit really good, I personally had some issues with the cold pipe hitting the king lead on the coil side.

Currently waiting on the bumper mounting screws and brackets. Non of the bolts currently used are actually ment to be used on to mount the bumper🙄 The brackets for the bumper have a lead time of 30 days due to being out of stock(luckily not out of production). Wings currently have threaded inserts while they should be plastic pop in clips instead, the insert on one side is already cross threaded by now so before the new bumper is refitted with correct license plate holders these need to be removed. Washed the car today wheel look way better now😅