RoyalDutchie

Priced to sell amazing prices, shouldn't be around for long. Would have bought the rear bumper if I wasn't al the way in the Netherlands😅 seen the lip alone go for more🤣

Started fixing the idle speed finally, started with reducing the idle speed to about 1100-800 depending on temp(quite a bit of interior vibrations at lower revs, still need 2 of the engine mounts to be replaced). Removed the catch can and planning to get a threaded one and mod it, mine had a vac leak which created a leak for the engine and introduced high idle. Cleaned the idle valve which had 2 of the 3 copper spring parts snapped of course, Replacing them is impossible these days. Will be looking into a replacement copper piece or another way to get a more common idle control valve into

Maybe use the google translate app on your phone, it is pretty capable to translate Japanese. Seems it is only used when using the original boost solenoid.

Seems to be a restrictor if it has the hole in it.

The plus side is they are a lot cheaper than the real deal and don't require much maintenance. The customizability on the models is what really amazed me. The only limit is your creativity really. They give the possibility to own a representation of the real deal without the issues and pricetag.

Great work as always. Great job on the tribute model car. Another great lineup of models coming up I see. Be mindful this can become a pretty expensive hobby quickly

Finished the complete loom for the interior lighting. Just need to get the dash out now and replace the dam vents. Also started to notice the difference in green with the center console. This is due too one being original and one aftermarket. In person this isn't really noticeable but something on the list for the next order.Just the footwell lights and ignition barrel left to fit

This looks pretty sketchy. Does the oil filter still seal well? I've been told the d1 spec sandwich plates fit without any work. Not sure if this is true, didn't try it myself.

Thanks Sam, seems to be a common thing around here. Only works above ambient temp though since the ac is removed.

The past week I've been replacing the timing belt and front seal. Did the job without removing the engine mount which might have made it more complicated than it should have been. Installing the timing belt was a major pain. Very hard to get it on all pulleys and in most cases it jumped time. After a few attempts I advanced(rotated cam gear clockwise a few degrees) the timing of the camshafts which resulted in the correct timing after installing the cambelt and tensioner. I did use a puller for the crankshaft to not chip it. Also replaced the rear mount with a new one

Thanks @Trevstar , nothing gives more satisfaction than replacing a china button with a good panel and a oem looking switch. Just need to wire the interior lighting for the green button, not sure from which connection I'll be tapping it from yet.

An easy filter to get in Europe and other places is the Injen nanoweb dry filter. No oil used and made of pretty good material. It was made in collab with Amsoil so can't fault it. Also using one myself.

Did you get this on the bay?

Thanks, I've got a adapter with the stri gauge set, but no idea if it is the correct one, the pitch seems fine and the socket for its is 17. Stri also doesn't mention it in the manual😅 Maybe something like this would be usable depending on the space around the pressure switch. Did some searching a while back though a Y-adapter has been used successfully.

@akyakapotter Do you know the thread size for both the relocation bracket and the pressure sensor(1/8 BSPT probably?)?

Installed the fog light switch and a new panel. Just need to rewire the switch so it works which is the next job.

Very exited for the parts. I'm fine, haven't had any issues yet with everything going on. Just having a few weeks of now.

While checking for a loom to plug into for tapping the ign light a discovered that my hazard bulb was blown, now replaced with a new one and in working order. discovered the glanzas don't seem to be using the bulb for the rear defog switch when it comes to interior lighting. After some more digging it seemed that Toyota also blanked of the switch so even if the bulb is lit it isn't shown. Not sure if all glanzas have this, but pretty sure this is the case since the loom is also not prepped to work with interior lighting.

Car got a fresh MOT just now. Received the rear fog switch today, came without the silicone caps around the bulbs so had to install them myself. Switch is ready to be wired in once I receive the connectors, also looking for a connector near the ciggy lighter to make a loom for the the illuminated ring around it. Thinking about using the hazard switch if it is illuminated since the climate control plug is a bit involved.

I cannot find a link for any, only a few on sale for different corolla models, not the EE11 with 4efe.

Your best option would be a "Toyota Corolla Electrical Wiring Diagram Service Manual". This manual should describe the connectors with schematic pictures. The Haynes manual also describes some circuits as you already told, but not as convenient as the Toyota workshop manuals.

Depends on the flywheel, your mechanic should be able to determine if it is required. Resurfacing makes sure the flywheels surface is even.

No measurements, but just like Jay wrote, only genuine ones(and arp ones) should be used with the right threadlock(I think it is blue). Toyota specifically developed bolts for the flywheel to prevent it from coming lose ones installed correctly. I wouldn't trust anything else to do the job and risk a failure. You need to buy 6 of them, Toyota sells them individually.

Idworkz quotes about 350 imported to Italy. I think the flywheel isn't going to get cheaper than 200 euros ex vat and customs new. Only second hand could get you a cheaper flywheel. An option is to sell your current clutch(and accept the amount of euros you lose instead of buying a new flywheel), and try to get a uprate clutch for the 200mm flywheel of the corolla. Something like a stage 1 organic clutch which can handle 200nm which is plenty. @Sam44 Has some experience with uprated 4efe clutches if I'm correct? You will need to get your flywheel resurfaced if you go second hand or

90105-10138 x6 for the bolts 13405-11060 For 4efte flywheel It is a good practice to replace the flywheel bolts. They cost around 1 euro depending on your Toyota dealer. The clutch you have won't fit the 4efe flywheel 200mm not compatible with 212mm clutch