yeh agreed, some times you can get lucky and the wires color match so earthing is easy to pin point engine sensor earthing is, engine 12v high amp, sensor low voltage/amp supply and engine sensing/so on. makes it a heck of alot easier but for some reason jdm run different color codes!! 

looking cool as hell. loving this build. going to be 1 hell of a car. 

looking at the engine its off a later glanza v auto. 

(better ecu, ct9b better turbo,)

how are the wire colour codes matching up. 

the uk starlet and corrola loom/harness wire colour coding is different to the jdm colours for the same wires through out the entire cars. making matching wires that bit harder to do.  

i wouldnt think so, the 4efte lamba sensor is a 1 wire sensor and the corrola is a 4 wire heated unit. the problem here will be the engine fuse box/engine loom from the 4efte should not support the e11 heated part of its lamba sensor.  

that 4efte engine looks super clean. 

keep up the great work. looking mega impressive.  

frankie are you talking about the gearbox drive/inputshaft clutch hole? 

the ep91 4efe & e11 corrola 4efe clutch is 200mm diameter. the ep91 & ep82 4efte jdm clutch diameter is 212mm as stated above this clutch is also used on many other toyotas from around 1990 to 2005. in order to be able to run either the 200mm or 212mm you require the  compatible pressure plate and flywheel (i recommend getting the clutch as a kit). the gearbox drive/input-shaft clutch hole & spline count are the same.   

hope all is well your end SKINY. 

its alot nicer to drive these engines that have these intake systems on the road (daily use, your not banging out the rpm at red-line to access good torque). im not talking racing here.   

they also help reduce engine wear. keeping engine rpm in the low to mid level hitting target speed at a nice pace. 

they also make for a higher potential peak power. 

ive been driving the paseo around the past couple of days, im not going with the 5ehfe cams until i fit the turbo small fast spooling tfo35 hyb.

the paseo drives really well, great mpg, with this setup im still in the high 30 to mid 40mpg

 great low centre of gravity, it eats up round abouts. driving positions not the best (at my age). rear axle feels very unstable (loves to wiggle its bum instead of slide near the limit). 

the 5ehfe cams i fear will push the torque band to high in the rpm range. the torque at present hits around 4.3krpm till redline, the saving grace with this setup is the close ratio 4+:1 final drive gearbox really softens the impact of the higher engines rpm power band, allowing a near normal road drive with a hard hitting high rpm ability. i think any more on the cams will make me not enjoy driving it as a daily. 

next set will to to free up some exhaust back pressure.

full custom 2.5inch system, then dyno-run.  

i have been working on the paseo today just tidying up a few things. 

ive ordered a full rocker cover gasket set as well as cam seal. (there is an oil leak in the rocker cover and running into 3 of the 4 spark plugs, also in the timing covers coming from the top, but settles in around the bottom cover sump area).

ive done a plug read, there are signs of det on them so ive pulled the ignition timing back 1deg retarded and cleaned off the plugs ready for another run & read. ive also added 1psi more fuel pressure (there a nice brown tea bag colour but there starting to turn white). 

CLUTCH BLEED PROCEDURE.

ive bleed threw the clutch fluid and cleaned out the clutch reservoir (it was full of sludge). there is a nack to doing this using the adjusting screw on the rear of the clutch peddle. you have to adjust this to remove any and all of the free play on the peddle, but making sure you do not start to move the clutch master cylinder piston inwards (so basically just remove the peddle free play) this way you get full stroke of the cylinders (both master and slave). you then adjust the peddle for best clutch bite point after bleed. 

doing this along with the steering rack and pinion preload, and throttle cable adjustment makes a hell of a change to control.

ive also removed some free play from the cam belt. 

The paseo is booked in for a dyno run. at the end of next month. 

dan has set it up on a adjustable fuel reg and adjusting the dizzy for optimum performance, adjusting the length of the map sensor pipe. (road tuning) 

spec so far:  alloy 3E flywheel 212mm low inertia paddle clutch, 4efte/gen 1 4efe, sera 5efe power inlet manifold &  50mm 4efte throttle modded body, 7afe pink 230cc+ injectors, g6 corrola c60 6speed box, engine earthing kit, kemso uprated fuel pump.  

the 5efe took the 7afe injectors well with the fuel pressure set at 2.8bar base (vac line on)

he tells me the exhaust needs work now its restricting the power. 

he tells me it comes alive after around 4.5krpm there is a big hit of hp right to red line 6.7krpm

he is estimating around 115hp 

he is bringing the car back to me this weekend. 

other things that have been done

engine oil & filter changed (running mobile one 10/40 fully syn, one of the best oil around)

air filter replaced

clutch fluid changed 

power steering fluid changed.

gear oil replaced with semi syn dextron two. (this is being run for a few month to flush the box) 

brake fluid replaced & front calipers freed off (slider pins greased)

spark plugs replaced

dizzy cap and rotor arm replaced. 

water pump replaced

alternator replaced. 

fan belts replaced. 

coolant replaced. 

steering rack & pinion pre load adjusted (there was alot of free play in the steering, common on these cars)

wheels balanced

tracking set up. 

gear oil replaced. 

i recon you have the mk1 gt 4efte this has the stronger bottom end/rods/crank it also has a better cylinder head. the ports are lined up better. this engine was the engine that all the early jap tuning companies raced.  

sounds great ste keep them updates coming. 

this engine is going to look brand new. 

any chance of getting a picture of the neck of the rod (the part that goes up to the piston). this is where the difference is (thickness). 

just having a read threw now. 

ill soon have some things coming your way. 

how are you and the family

what i will do is to make the brackets needed to swap the e11 4efe pump onto a 4efte engine, i estimate the bracket will be ready middle of next month. 

i will then send them out to you. 

i should get chance to test fit them on a corrola 4efe. im going to collect/remove another g6 6speed box from a breakers yard soon.

ill be with you as soon as i can frankie. 

after being away from family and friends for so long im just concentrating on them for a few weeks. ive got 2 month off work coming up. ill be back on this as soon as i can.

its so good to be back home.   

 i have got yellow stuff on mine. (fast road) great pad. again i just go standard vented discs. better surface area coverage. 

waw another starlet that i didnt know existed. toyota you amaze me. 

she is in good hands now. i cant wait to see this build. 

i will do the drawing now for you. for the corrola power steering pump/bracket

ill send you that info very sson, ive been speaking with a lad that has converted 2x ae101 corollas. over the past couple of days . you can do a really nice and neat swap.

are you wanting to use the 4efte original exhaust catalytic converter. this will be a problem with the front gearbox mount. 

the abs will not be a problem. and looking at the ac pumps and power steering it looks like they should just swap over. (4efte pipes into the e11 steering rack, the only ? here is the lenght, and e11 ac pipes into the 4efte pump, the pump off the e11 looks like it might swap over onto the 4efte also. if you could send me pictures of the 4efte and e11 ac pumps at different angles. also measure with string your power steering pipes on both from the steering rack and to and from the pump and bottle.  

im going to look at a e11 4efe in the breaker yard soon to get some pictures. 

the wiring is looking quite easy to.   

im loving this. a great bunch of lads. i hope you are able to follow this. yeh you have a auto. 

this is really good news. apart from needing a flywheel to fit the E series crank and the 212mm 4efte/other toyota clutch. 

the auto ems/ecu is alot more advanced and uses a potentiometer on the throttle tps, from what im told these produce a really nice smooth power curve.

from what im told i believe lukep on here was one of the first to do an auto conversion. message him for adivce.    

right ive come across the e11 electrical tacho/speedo drive/sensor for your clocks. im working on the wiring now looks quite straight forward i will send it you over soon. 

spot on. i will have this figured out in no time. these cars are really very basic

yep i will get onto it new. im searching and looking at wiring diagrams now. i have also got your massages. lets do this. 

it look in the picture like your have the two power steering pipes complete with the engine and power steering pump. is this right ?. if so they will just pipe into your steering rack. 

do you have a 4efte engine ecu ?.

what we are trying to gain

Toyota Sera 1.5 Specs

OVERVIEW

With a fuel consumption of 34.5 mpg US - 41.5 mpg UK - 6.8 L/100km, a weight of 1962 lbs (890 kg), the Toyota Sera 1.5 has a water cooling 4 cylinder DOHC16 valve engine, a Regular gasoline engine 5E-FHE. This engine 5E-FHE produces a maximum power of 111.5 PS (110 bhp - 82 kW) at 6400 rpm and a maximum torque of 132.3 Nm (97.6 lb.ft - 13.5 kg.m) at 5200 rpm. compression ratio 10:1

below is a Toyota sera 5efhe engine bay picture note the gen 1 also the 4efteh power inlet and large throttle body. other differences are the compression ratio, cam profiles and exhaust system.

one thing to note here is the maximum torque difference of the two engines i think you will be surprised. i hope we will hit around 100hp+ ready for boost at this point the 5efhe cams will go in.    

the 5efe engine bay pic

toyot cynos beta

Basic (general) data

Bodywork

Dimensions & Weight

Aerodynamics

Engine

this is down to the very famous dual runner acis inlet manifold. this manifold increased low to high rpm inlet gas velocity/speed by passing it threw long narrow manifold runners at around 5.5krpm flaps would open up in the manifold accessing large shorter inlet runners increasing peak rpm power output. the two combined increased max output power. 

this design is much nicer to drive   

So after doing some runs  with the new setup we have decided to go with the larger 4efte 50mm throttle body. In order to do this on the 5efe ems we will need to swap the throttle flap shaft from the 5efe throttle body into the 4efte 50mm throttle body. This is because the 5efe ems requires the potentiometer tps. This is do able the shafts are the same diameter. 

Here you can see the 5efe throttle flap shaft with the tps key way (flat type)

Note the tps mounting points. 

Difference in the shaft key ways on the tps sensors the largest 4efte throttle body (top) has the mounting points for the 5efe & 4efe potentiometer tps. 

By doing this we will increase top end engine air volume potential but this will need  a progressive accelerator control in order to hit good peak hp figures. 

Every thing on the inlet side just got big requiring good throttle control. 

Difference in size can be see here the top unit is the 4efte. 

The 5efe idle valve will be made redundant and I will set up the idle on the 4efte throttle using its idle screw.  

after taking some measurements of the center shaft/flap shaft. it quickly became apparent that these shafts are to different to swap. 

differences

1). the overall length. this is because we have a 45mm throttle body and a 50mm. 

2). the placement/distance between the flap mounting screws to the shaft, again its because of the flap diameter. 

i have decided its much easier to have the 4efte throttle center shaft tps end made to fit the 4efe/5efe tps.      

Here we go moding time.  Ported out 4efte throttle. All machine edges removed and port lips. Ported out as a cone thinning out the throttle outer edges. Smoooooth air flow. All I need to do is smooth out the liquid steel putty that I've blocked the idle up valve ports, this part of the throttle has been thrown away. 

4efte tps key way modes to suit the 4efe/5efe tps. 

is this still going strong. ive been thinking of running the paseo (my build is in the paseo section on here) on low boost around 5psi on a standard tdo4 we have fitted the 7afe (230cc i think) pink injectors and a adjustable fuel reg getting the afr good at 2.2bar normally aspirated we have also increased the length of the map sensor pipe to slow the response of the map sensor out of boost so it does not over fuel in this area. on a standard 5efe ems.  

have you thorough of running the higher lift 4etfe inlet cam.

what throttle body are you running.   

looking forward to this. 

welcome buddy, great bunch of owners on here, looking forward to your build.