Sam44

I will have it off you. Message me please

I will read threw this now a comment soon. Has claymore spotted a crack on the intercooler. 

If you can get aureate info on what I've asked for, I will have a good idea if you have boost leaks. 

How To find out at what engine rpm the boost is happening at = get the car into 3rd/4th gear allow the rpm to drop to 1500 now go foot flat on the throttle pedal. Watch your boost gauge and the road, reference at what rpm the boost hits peak, also at what engine rpm the boost starts to build (positive pressure). 

To find the right gear to achieve this. The engine rpm needs to increase steady/slowish (underload) this allows the turbo to out pace the engine.

Doing this, but being alot smoother on the throttle, you will also feel your torque curv and any flat areas in the rpm, this will feel like the rpm is increasing but the mph slows down in this area (pulling power drops). This might happen in waves going up the rpm range, but should always be in the same rpm bands as the test is repeated. A good G meter also helps to confirm what you are feeling. 

We will get it back do not stress. 

Yeh I'm in shock. Alot bookies have refunded people's money I believe so as to not end up in court tells us alot. 

How can formula one come to this. 

At least Lewis was the last real champion. 

Looking smart. 

You have lost power using a fmic? 

It should increase power by having a much cooler air charge, because of the increased volume of the pipes and new core it will come on full pressure slightly later, not feeling as smooth. 

The intake air temps will be considerably lower affecting fueling by way of intake air temp sensor..??

The original top mount intercooler is very inefficient especially with out the bonnet/scoop seal. it could have been over fueling slightly because of the air inlet temperature giving you a better air fuel mix for power. 

It would be good to know exactly what boost pressure you are on and at what rpm.

Drive it around for a few days, do a blink code read out straight away again. And remove number 4 spark plug and send me a close up picture. If possible. Make sure there are no boost leaks. 

If needed a good adjustable fuel pressure reg like the fse units can be used to correct any slight fueling offsets. This will allow you to bring the power back. First these tests need carrying out. 

Yeh it's such a great upgrade for the UK ep. I've been banging on about it for ages it seems now. I even changed wikki on the 4e engine specs to reflect the Cam and spring differences. Enjoy. You are one of the first. 

Yeh the 3sge is a monster of an engine. A true group b rally machine. 

Thanks for the information I didn't know what the default pressure is on the ep 4efte was. 

Yeh the 7agte is not a engine Toyota made its a true mix up of parts. It costs around 3k to make a forged engine but I think a better unit than the more modern 2zz and 1zz. I call it the baby 3sgte. First I've got to finish the paseo and starlet. 

Have you managed to get the high low boost valve working. If not do you know what boost pressure it's running/boost gauge fitted?. So much respect for this.

I'm going to do a corrola in a few years I recon. possibly a 4afe, use a 7afe engine making a forged 7agte is the plan hopefully, but we will see. 

I feel the need to send my best wishes to you all for Christmas and shortly after into the new year 2022. 

I've really enjoyed the club and its members and feel like I have got to know alot of you along the way. 

Have yourself a very merry Christmas and all the very best for 2022.  

Kind regards

Sam xxx

Waw, awesomeness in a ep. 

It's thec160, c161 in the 4efe G6 and 162 in the g6r. Sorry just read the last message. 

You can still get these gearboxes form Toyota I'm getting a new 1 next year. There are also a few reconditioned units on the internet. 

That front mount looks smart. Congratulations Frankie really well done and in record time in all honestly an amazing job.

I see so many projects get messy and never get finished. Much respect to you and your crew of lads.

I bet this sounds and goes great.

Love it.

Just had a good read threw, Great explanation on everything. 

So clean. Very nice gt. Watching with interest. 

8 hours ago, CallumWellens33 said:

Wouldn't have known where to start without the early pm's we exchanged. Thanks again for all your continued help sam😎. Hopefully I'll soon be a member of the 6speed club 

Your welcome. 

With afew selective mods these little light cars come alive. And can to tuned to compete in every area of proformance. The 6speed club. These guys know what they have and how this box allows them to compete with some serious hp on the street/circuit's. 

Also there are only a few lads running the turbo cam in the history of the starlet. It's going to be good to see if the tubular inlet affects it's topend power ability. These 2 together should create a rpm range of pulling power. Enjoy. 

Really looks smart, can't wait to see what you do with this. 

Yeh sorry it was a sae50 (good spot thanks). The oil put up was an equiverlant oil for the volvo shift gearbox. A quick search on the gearbox At2612d which is my reference. let me dig out the part number in my documents.  

Sorry patch about the compents on the build thread.

I am quite fortunate my place of work does alot. There not accessible to the general public. 

If you search around there are more and more companies doing it. Also you can get ceramic beeds your self it's not a complex process. 

We have always called it ceramic bead polishing/hardening it's been around for awhile now. 

Getting the internals super polish finished has so many great benafits + my starlet box is really very quite after polishing. I'm very impressed with it. 

After alot of research I'm using Volvo hgv gear oil. It's extremely durable. Does not seem to be affected by temps (great cold as well as hot), as well as extremely long long life. 100k oil changes. 

transmission oil SAE80W-90, 97305 sorry a mistake with the part number as pointed out by claymore, The oil I used was sae50 part number to come soon. 

Oh yeh, great addition. 

Also great to see your build progress. I've not seen many silver ones recently. Keep it coming. 

Waw. 1 of the nicest styled Gt I've seen. Looking up some of your mods I'd say rare and unique. 

Also 1 of the original 6speed convertions that attracted me to the idea. How would you describe the gearbox compared to the 5speed? 

Same from me, it's time in this little cars life to start to preserve it. I think everyone will have to do the same. Very well done. Keep up the great work/build. 

When it comes to flywheel and clutches it's all about rotating mass where force, distance & weight apply. 

This to me has a very similar affect of a modern complex ignition system at a fraction of the price. The reason I use the lightest posable flywheel. 

The 5e is fantastic using this flywheel very rev happy. The 4e also very revy but the rpm drops alot more sharply due to the difference in engine stroke. 

I'm using the fidanza brand the lightest I can find. Around 3.61kg this allows the engine to increase rpm sharply with little resistance. The clutch also does this (low anertia) in relation to the engine it is the time taken to accelerate from say 850rpm (idle) to 7krpm (redline). These two units help the engine achieve it in a faster time. 

The standard ep91 4efte and 4efe flywheels are around the 15kg mark. With the larger 212mm clutch and pressure plate a few kg more than the 200mm. So choose carefully. It does make a difference. With the larger 212mm clutch having more mass/weight further way from the center/larger diameter, taking longer to overcome anertia (accelerate slower), but handles more power over the smaller 200mm unit. The balance again has to be struck. 

There are some draw backs using the very light alloy flywheel.

1). Is that it has a steel plate (clutch contact surface) screwed to the alloy flywheel. Were these screws are positioned on this surface removes/reduces the friction plate to flywheel contact surface area. 

2). Because of the very low weight of the flywheel the force/energy stored in the flywheel is significantly reduced. This means off throttle when clutching and changing gears the engine rpm drops sharply. This is not a problem when clutching fast/racing but can be a problem in slow moving traffic. 

3). Because of the reduction in weight acting against the thrust movement of the clutches pressure plate. If you start gearing hard/fast (kicking the clutch) crank walk can happen with alot of engines. You have to learn to gear fast but smooth, not agresive. One of the reasons why the 4efte engine comes with a very heavy front pully.

The difference in design and weight now depends on how fast you want the engine to increase in rpm (the lower the weight the better) engine deceleration off throttle = increase in weight to store energy. power the clutch has to handle and how you are going to drive it. 

https://futuremotorsports.com/product/fidanza-lightweight-flywheel-toyota-starlet-turbo-gt-glanza-4efte/

The other areas cover safety, rpm limmit & strength. 

This is how it's been done before as well as how Merc expected it to go these are the clear rules. On the matter. It's like watching the highest level of motor sport become a joke. 

Yeh the ep91 UK 4efe starlet has a 200mm diameter clutch with a flywheel to suit and the ep82&ep91 JDM 4efte has a 212mm clutch with a flywheel to suit. The bolt patterns are the same for either flywheel where it bolts to the crank.