Sam44

Haha, yep if I don't get the paseo in the body shop this year. I'll be joining you.

7age engine spec.

4age 16v reconditioned head with super finished/polished valve buckets/followers, some head work needed to clear for the cam lift. 

Kent race Spec cams + adjustable pulleys. 

Arp 4age head studs, 

4age Toyota head gasket.

7afe original pistons lightened, balanced skimmed flat top.

Crank High load ACL bearing shells

7afe rods & crank, crank journals getting case hardened and polished with machined factory sharp edges getting hand smoothed/removed. Rods are having the piston oiler holes deleted and new oilers ground into the thrust faces (this will also help lubricate these faces as well as the oil spred constantly + evenly over the bearing shell surfaces), little end pins super finished/polished. 

Crank, flywheel, front pulley (pulley yet to be designed for the sprintex charger) and clutch will all get balanced together. 

7afe high volume delivery oil pump, running a larger oil capacity oil filter. 

Arp crank main cap studs. 

Standard 7afe flywheel. 

Redline set at 7krpm (I've been told they do 8krpm all day long). 

Parts being ordered. Head has been sent away. 

There are easy 20 different ways to build one of these engines. After talking to many different builders mainly in the USA this is the final choise. 

The rods I'm told fail around the 280hp mark the pistons fail around 1.2bar of boost.

my aim is 250hp, this coupled with the torque these engine deliver should be nice and controlable, having as nice linear power delivery. 

The paseo weights in at alittle under 900kg I'm going to do my best to keep it at this weight. 

The sprintex charger will be housed as part of the engines inlet manifold mounted post inlet throttle, with out the need for an intercooler & piping.

At least I've measured them. That's what I go off. Auto data is not always right. 

For instance if I drop my 5efe or 4efe+t pressure bellow 2.5bar all the plugs become fouled with cement boil. this is fuel as a luquid boiling off the plug surface (poor injector atomisation). 3bar is the point at which there's a big improvement. 

Any one that would like to do the same and comment please do. This is a good topic of interest. 

I have also seen a tuning development setup and there fuel regs are set at 3bar on factory injectors, emanage blue piggy back. 

What claymore has put up is a valid point. Also when I first started researching factory pressure 2.4bar was the answer.

Have you?.

Or is that you on your period. Give that keyboard a bash. It's your comment that is not helpful. 

Areo deck is this the h22 engine? 

I really do love the classic cars. Great buy. 

Great information as always. 

Love this, the 4efe/5efe do look slightly different.

I didn't measure any of the ones I did under boost conditions either I just snapped the throttle open. The ones that responded hit about 3.2bar. all the same near anuff. 

Legend, great find claymore. Thank you. 

The nice gentleman has put a pic above showing that on these factory thermostat you can find the operating temp. 

is this a Toyota part number?.

yeh my starlet on its standard stat regulated at 89degC near anuff constantly until I put the paseo unit in this runs around 78deg Near anuff constantly. 

11 degC doesn't sound alot but to a engine were heat is a by-product and does more harm than good this makes a good difference. 

Tell me more skinny. 

Does he have a build blog on a site?. 

I do love this.

What internals did he use?

I was going to either do a ep82 gt turbo with it, or a Celica, but the light weight, low center of gravity,  low drag Shape of the paseo has won my heart. People love it. I love it, I get looks were ever I go. So time to make it what it should have been. With a truly 1 off toyota engine. Running the best charger on the market. Keep that na feel with a linear power delivery and that weight down. 

Them spark plugs are ok. A nice burn on that one, nice fuel atomisation. Cylinder temps are up slightly. Nothing really to be worried about. 

Whats the heat range on these plugs. 

You can run a paseo 78deg thermostat to help. I'd expect them to start to go brown. 

you can only really get the original 78deg 5efe thermostat from Toyota. Most listed online are starlet units 89deg. The temp of the unit is normally stamped on the thermostat. 

going any lower than 78deg and you will struggle to clear the windows of frost. 

Thats the only reason really why manufacturers go above 70degC, in cab heating. 

for best power it's 60 to 70degC coolant temp that achieve this. 

On 1/23/2022 at 7:17 PM, RoyalDutchie said:

There it is the replacement for the ae111 which I would have bought instead if this one didn't pop up. Rear arches need to be replaced and a few other places need attention but all just in time to not be a massive project. Will need a proper swap once it is restored.

What model is this. 

Love retro, old school classics, there getting so very rare now. If you are going to get one now is the time. 

9 hours ago, SKINY said:

Interested to see this Sam

I will get some pictures up for everyone. 

Im super excited about this. And getting the paseo in the body shop for a restoration job. 

Hoping to have it complete by this time next year. 

No all different, factory units I believe. 2x gt turbos 1x ep91. 

I have also done my ukEp91 and the paseo they also were set at 3bar regulated. My ep91 was on a adjustable fpr sporting a kemso aftermarket pump. The paseo was totally factory. 

Also when I search denso injectors on line for part numbers/cc delivery it always references 3bar fuel pressure for that delivery rate. 

Most petrol common rail injection of this era operates at this pressure, so not really a suprise. 

It would be great if other could test there factory pressure to confirm my readings. 

it begins. 

The later MK1 MR2 4age large port 16 valve head with engine.

Thanks to Callum for the help on here. 

Check out them intake ports. And a pent roof combustion chamber 45deg port angles. 

The 4age large port MK2 MK1 head will be sent away for a full reconditioning. 

Pics coming soon. New phone is being difficult. 

After carefully reading threw alot of information regarding the 7age/gze and I've decided to keep the original crank and rods, lightening the pistons skimming them down to achieve a flat top 8.1:1 compression ratio. My aim for power will be around 250hp mark. 7krpm redline, which I'm told they can do 8krpm all day long. 

3 hours ago, Charlie Thompson said:

Thanks for the reply’s lads 

Your welcome. I've only tested about 4 factory regs. The one that measured 2.8bar didn't increase the pressure so I would say that one was nakered. The others have been 3bar regulated. 

Great stuff guys. 

Upgrades already. 

Take it slow do the research and aim for reasonable safe power keep that engine healthy.

A ported standard manifold is a good option. Also if they crack it's easy anuff to get them welded up. 

Yeh when i get my oil cooler in I will go back to stock oil.

I use mobile one. 

Hope you get it sorted. I bet it's driving you nuts. 

Morning.

There are 2 other common points on the engine for oil leaks. People often think that it is the sump leaking (this is were the oil comes out/collects). These are the two main leaking points. 

The left hand back corner of the rocker cover gasket leaks (near the oil filler cap) normally into and down the cam belt covers coming out of the sump. This point of the head were the rocker leaks is a place were engine oil gathers in the head when the engine is running. I put sealant on this corner as well as on the points of the rocker gasket that is required. 

The other is the oil pump seal. This is the main large "O" ring that seals the oil pump to the engine block. 

Other points to look at are, front crank main seal, rear crank main seal, top cam shaft seals, but if these are found to keep leaking after replacing them you need to check the engine crankcase pressure. Chances are you have exesive piston ring blow by or (ring flutter), normally on these engines this is due to age/bore glaze. A good cylinder hone and a 500 to 600 miles ring cut in process to follow.

Also the dipstick seal can look like a sump leaking.  

If you replace the oil pump "O"ring seal replace the front crank main seal. This is because it's easy to do with the oil pump off. 

Remember to follow instructions of how to apply instant gasket. Silicon sealant. The idea is to allow the sealant to form a seal between two surfaces. Not squashing and breaking the sealant whilst still wet. 

43 minutes ago, Pikey009 said:

Interesting read this. Is the Glanza or GT sump favourable?

Go on tgtt web site type in starlet Vs gt sump. Some good info. It won't let me post up the web link on here. Suppose because there rival sites. 

The later ep sump is a superseded versions of the gt sump, the early ep80/82 sump was prone to oil surge in fast corners. Best get them baffled asap. The oil pump pickup pipes/strainers are different for both sump types, in case your thinking of changing from 1 to the other. 

Yeh the tray stops oil misting (increasing crank case pressure) oil hitting the rotating parts, allowing oil to drop down from these parts and the head keeping the oil in the sump. With this sump mod (oil baffles could be much better), and a oil cooler/thermo things I'm hoping will be pretty controlled.

The engine came out of a track day car that ran for over 2 years on a td04hl 16t hybrid turbo at 250hp. When I replaced the ACL shells in the engine there was nothing wrong with them. It ran with an oil cooler and thermostat and a funky oil catch can setup, designed to keep crank case pressure in vacuum. 

2 step later ep91 sump. 

Earlier ep80/82 sump 

Hope you get the issues sorted. These motors will put you to the test. 

Could be crank case pressure. that is some thing these do get. That's what I believe the windage tray in mine is aimed at. 

I have read builds were people have restricted the oil flow to the head. I am told it's alot. Helping the bottom end pressure and flow rate. There is a nice sump mod on one of the other builds I'm really impressed with. 

I'm running ACL in the starbo at the min (standard size). I will check them out after 6month on the road and report back. I'm running 1bar on a tdo4 hybrid, using 10w40 modile one engine oil. If I go any higher on the boost the inlet temps start to increase. 

I am running modified standard Toyota 4e connecting rods. 

Haha. Just me getting 1 back at claymore (wouldn't change him for anything a). I know the time would come. Keep moving forward guys. Hope you both keep up the great work and keep on this great site. Sorry to post this just my time to be a knob. Which to be fair when I read the older posts there's loads of the angry comments going on. 

Yeh if you turbo the 4e you want pink 7afe injectors minimum 230cc. On the gray 295cc 4efte units you will have to drop the fuel pressure to around 2bar, to low im reconning, but as said I've not/done used this aprouch using a turbo. 

There is a build on here with a person that has used pink injectors to boost a 4efe on a fuel cut. I tried to contact him but he did not reply to my messages. 

If I remember right he had run this build for over a year with no problems.

There is also a black ep91 on you tube that does it, I think in France.  

The most denso injectors suffer with atomisation (spray pattern) .

on the 4efte there is what I call a sweet spot if you set your fuel pressure to 3.5 to 3.7bar base pressure (some nice kick ass power)  vacume line off. The injectors don't flow any more over around 4bar is there limmit. You can up your fuel pressure and do a plug read as I've spoken about previously to make sure the cylinder temps stay healthy. 

By upping fuel pressure it can increase injector temp increasing fuel temp and decreasing injector life. This is why I run a fuel cooler on my ep as well as screw on fuel line unions. Clips are rated at a much lower pressure. 

Yep you can clearly see the hammering/detonation markers on them. 

I've just dropped in the 230cc pink injectors in my 5efe and adjusted my fuel pressure to 2.8bar a drop of .2bar on the standard reg and Waw what a transformation to power it had. I'll get mine on the Dyno soon. It's best to talk from experience. I find.

From a plug read going any lower on the fuel pressure causes the plugs to foul with what is known as cerment boil ( it's like a white brown crust like cerment) this is due to the fuel not atomising properly (boiling off the plug) if I go any higher the plugs go very clean and white ash is seen on the outer edge the coolest part of the plug this tells me that the cylinder temps are to high common cause is the exhaust temperature increase. At the min my plugs are a nice brown nearly clean colour, and black soot on the outer edge (the coolest part of the plug).

Bkr5eix plugs great plugs for the na engines. 

I'm getting it dynoed soon. What ever increase in hp it gets it would have not have been possible on the green injectors, See what we get.

I will admit here that on cold start conditions it does run slightly rich causing a bit of a black soot cloud out of the exhaust when you first drop that pedal. Clearing it throat as I call it. Then it's fine.

The light drown are very similar and the best 210cc found in the gen1 4efe in the corrola ae101. 

I know of 1 lad that ran these with the gen1 inlet 4efte throttle (switch type) and 4-2-1 exhaust off the ae101. He did not know of the cam difference, so he was on the ep91 cam he made 91hp. Not sure on his torque out put. My guess is quite alot comparing with other on the gen1 inlet that made around 85+hp there torque out is higher than these on the rolla inlet. 

If you look on the leader board I know Ryan Lang run the gen1 inlet look at his torque output in nm compared to other. From this you can spot the gen1 inlet builds. 

I do hate quoting people on there own advice given to others. 

Yeh got it. I'm coming up to the north west very soon, it will be good to get back on the starlet and get some other things sorted. 

Are you running the ep91 two step sump. This was introduced because the early gt sump was prone for oil starvation in long fast corners. The two step sump is pretty good at oil control. I'm running a home made windage plate also. Introduced by the previous owner. 

I hope you get to the bottom of all the problems. Keep us updated. 

Looking good. Yours is coming along nicely.