Sam44

I will look now and update this post. 

I haven't had alot if time to look for some pictures. 

Basically you open out the turbos waste gate port located in the turbos exhaust housing (the little bypass port with a flap/door). What you do is close the door on the port and use spray paint to paint over the top. Now when you open the door fully you can see the edge of the door/flap, as well as see how much the port can be opened out to. You want to leave a 1mm edge so as the door/flap can seal. This is know as porting a waste gate port to stop boost creep. 

Its really a quite simple job that I would benafit you already having the turbo off. The rate at which you a developing the engine it will not be long at all till you need to do this. 

Look into air filter relocation mods on this engine to see how you can go about removing the efi pipe on yours to me you want to go up into the driver's side wheel arch just behind the front bumper, from here you can also get into the engine bay just behind the driver's side front headlamp. 

Haha. Which corolla. 

I have a ae101 gen1 engine at the other house. Not got round to measuring the cams yet. 

Yeh I take it you have fitted one. Enjoy that extra kick after 4krpm. You can see now how easy it was to spot on the Dyno graph.

Can I just add it's fun to use the low lift ukdm eP91 inlet cam with bigger turbos or to spool any turbo up sooner. 

Yeh. You got it. 

One of the first mods on this engine (stage1 as it's known) is to remove all the restrictions. Which you have set about doing.

The efi pipe is a big restriction. 

Now you have the turbo off it's a perfect time to port the waste gate. 

Of course it's completly up to you. It's an easy job to do (opening out the waste gate port)

Lad, very nice find. They are around these boxes. You are set to have a very potent little car.  

Yep I will get you one. 

The turbo inlet on the compressor housing side. 

Sorry to add a link but the insert images button is playing up. 

"TOYOTA STARLET GLANZA TURBO EP91 EP82 INLET PIPE | JDM Performance Parts" http://jdmperformanceparts.co.uk/toyota-starlet-glanza-turbo-ep91-ep82-inlet-pipe.html

This pipe is very restrictive. 

Once this pipe is removed you will get boost creep. 

Info in this topic of how to solve boost creep. 

"Porting CT9 wastegate - Intake, Turbo & Exhaust - UK Starlet Owners" https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/104815-porting-ct9-wastegate/

Keep an eye on it. Readings will stay the same. As soon as you see anything different there's a problem developing. 

Just having a catch up on this now. 

Very nice work. 

At some point I will be onto 1 of these. 

It's the turbo inlet pipe, you will see the restriction right at the turbo inlet it narrows, flattens in places and has a few bends all at this point. 

As soon as you remove the restriction (remove this pipe) on these you will experience boost creep. Basically the turbo waste gate port is to small to regulate the turbo boost pressure effectively. This port now needs opening out/porting . 

You can clock the turbo compressor housing it will not affect the turbo but you will need to make a bracket to mount the actuator. 

46 minutes ago, Frankieflowers said:

I just went to get the 10 bolts for the cylinder head. Truth is that five are code 100 and other five should be 101.  

Yeh, when you start to get into this little car with a technical head. The errors can be found everywhere. 

You might want to port/open out the turbos waste gate port. This will stop boost creep when you decide to remove the efi pipe/turbos induction pipe. 

This efi pipe is really quite restrictive on power.  

Nice work, tidy. 

I'm sure it will be back together in no time. Get us some pics but don't let taking pics distract you from the job at hand. 

Thanks for the information as always.

if others can test there standard fuel pressures it would be a big help. 

Is the workshop mannula a Toyota manual?. 

Like everything else I've measured other 4efe/fte & 5efe units. (Just like the unknown cam and thermostat) Which I think I've already mentioned. Another area which was hard to get accepted, but I'm hoping is out there now for people to use. Yes it was me that altered the information on the Toyota 4e engine on wikki to reflecte the real difference in cam and valve springs. 

If you have the money for a ECU either piggy back or standalone then of course this could benafit you more in other areas as well as power (fuel economy), But tuning is tunning, every system on the production line starlet can be optimised/upgraded. Every system.

As I have research these vehicles from web sites all over the world. it has become apparent there are many gray areas still, with alot of conflicting information/data. The best way around this is to test and trust the figures Infront of you (which I've done and continue to do). 

It's also apparent the age group and pocket size these little cars attract. With on average I'd estimate a 2 in 10 car being built/tuned running a piggy back controller and 1 in 20 running a stand-alone, so the advise I give can now be put to use by this audience, I also believe they like to learn and try to understand, but love to see there own work pay off with feelable power gains. Ive got a feeling you already know this and are just joining in on this because that's ho you are, which I accept. Abit like talking to a child, and that's not a dig just how I feel when replying to you comments. 

It might benefit your self to read into/understand the porpose of the fuel pressure regulator. 

It's there to maintain a constant fuel delivery rate, (when there is a vacume acting on one side of the injector, sucking the fuel out, it reduces fuel rail pressure, as the vacume becomes a positive pressure acting on the injector the fpr increases rail pressure trying to maintain a constant delivery rate in a constantly changing environment. Unfortunately it's a basic mechanical devices that is fast to respond in different areas. Giving a timed offset with the ECU. 

I do however think it's quite hard to beat a manufacturers map. This map has been developed over years (around 3 on this vehicle) in multiple environments at different altitude (real world) over 100,000s of covered miles. It's very safe and can easily deal with fpr adjustment even small injector increment changes. Sometimes helping/improving a basic system/systems/age & period related). This was from a era were trend data could not be uploaded from the vehicle in service and software updates readily available (the era we now live in). I would also like to add that a piggy back controller uses the factory map but tricks it. This is quite hazerdes to do because you are now alone flying by the seat of your pants factory fail safes and diagnostic data (flash codes) no long apply. 

The point here is to do your research on people to map the car and if you are going to do it yours be warned. We have seen recently the confusion and mess easily created by fast mapping. I will say that from my research Rob ho has commented on the topic and racetec are the some of the most recommended experienced people to do this with maps I'd guess at being developed over many years. 

As for the det 3 controller it's EPROM reference tables are low resolution it's frustrating to work with. 

Alittle more money spent will get you a much better ECU. Like everything else. 

I hope all the information and tunning tips I give go to good use and help people/members get what they are looking for by joining the site. 

Im now ready for a quite predictable reply. Hoping it involves the answer to my question. 

No claymore my standard fuel pressure rating is 3bar vacume line on so 2.5 to 2.7bar is lower. There the figures guys I'm giving and people are free to try them as I have. Have you or again is this guess work. 

Buy the way the fpr is  mechanical the ECU is electrical the speeds they work are worlds apart. 

I'm running the pink injectors on my paseo build at 2.7bar and the difference in power on stock green units is night and day big gain alot more torque. The plugs are nice and brown. And it passed mot emmisions. It does run slightly rich on cold start the. 

People give it a go. 

I believe Callum is going to do it, we can wait on his feed back. 

By all means put an ECU on it as well these mods will help the ECU. 

Yeh with all respect it's Two ways of achieving the same hp. Possibly with different driveability results, And yeh these factory engine control units do run rich, I suppose it's why there safe on a fcd at 1bar. The denso injectors really quite poor.

For The vacume chamber fpr mod. Requires a vw vac chamber, 3x "T" offs, 1x a inline reducer insert, and 1x one way valve. Giving nicer faster sharper turbo spool up. Give us a message on here. 

Charlie try it bro. Put us to the test.

.its about fuel atomisation with the stock injectors, altering fuel pressure does not alter fuel delivery by a massive amount.  

Members, You be the judge. It's what I call a sweet spot. 

Rob read my post. It's all in there. Half of what you said There is in my post, 

Basic supporting mods for a ct9 at 1bar is, fmic, aftermarket Exhaust system & decat (this includes an aftermarket exhaust manifold or a ported out factory Unit), hks turbo actuator, fcd/ECU,ported ct9 waste gate, after market induction kit/removal of the stock turbo intake/hot pipe/efi pipe. Now run 3.6bar on your fpr (set up with vacuum pipe off) and even on a fcd you will be very close to 200hp. Of course this is if everything is healthy and engine setting are correct. Trust me

And guess what rob we don't need your expensive maps or ECUs to hit 200hp, crazy or what. 

Let's see do I buy a fpr or ecu? £. 

Charlie do not worry about us we are big boys. Just try it and let us know what you think. I can see me and him doing this for awhile. 

There is 1 eBay reg I've come across that people should avoid. This regs pressure is by no means stable.  

"Aluminum Alloy Universal FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator with Gauge Hose 0-140psi | eBay" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203091572954?hash=item2f493378da:g:ayEAAOSwdqhfSa8d

Horible regs these. 

There are quite a few 4efe+t recently on the eP91 build page ranging from big money to good budget builds have a look. 

Most of the lads and lasses/ladets on the first 2 pages are active on here and give some great advice. Good lads. You will typically wait around 1 week for a reply. 

What fpr have you got. The eBay regs only drop .2bar'ish (vacume line on) after setting it with it off. fse, and areomotive drop around 1bar. Sard and turbosmart do around .4 to.6bar. do you have a boost gauge that runs into vacume reading. If so can you tell me your idle speed at operating temp and vacume figures.

Let us know if it drops to 2.4bar with the vacume line on. 

This is purely out of interest for me. I'm intrigued in how little info Rob needs. Quite impressive. 

As said purely out of interest I'm really not here to argue. 

If you want a nice hp hit the magic fuel pressure figure is 3.6bar setting it with the vacume line off. At 1bar turbo boost on a ct9b I've seen a lad hit the magic 200hp. With the basic supporting mods, but it works just as good on standard boost yeilding around 160 to 170hp. 

Please keep checking your pressure everyday for at least 1 week they will stabilise/alter after the fuel line has been opened.

I will need a plug read/pic to see how hot the exhaust/cylinders are running. 3.6bar is typically safe on these. 

If you want to try it after rods pressure figures. You will see what I mean. 

If you do I'm on wats app I can help you tune it. Or I'm on here but with company if you now what I mean. 

Please reply with your results. We can start to put things to bed around the fpr. 

There is another great trick using a vw vacume chamber on the fpr vac line. I can show you, this helps the fueling around the turbo spool up point. Giving some kick ass spool up response. Very noticeable on the ct9b, ct9 hyb, tdo4l. 

This idea/bit of tec was taken off the Celica 3sge 2ltr running it's very clever multistage inletmanifold. Also I've found it on the MK1 MR2 4age multistage inlet. 

So I'm very confident it will also help benafit the 4efe lads on a adjustable fpr. 

Thew for these lads you have to run the pink 4age/7afe/5efhe 230cc injectors running around 2.5 to 2.7 bar fuel pressure setting it up with the vacume line on. Some more kick ass power. Use the eBay aero motive copy fpr these only add around .2bar of fuel pressure on throttle great for the 4efe and bigger injectors not to go to high, just for good fueling. On the short turn fuel trim, the long term closed loop trim will more are less be the same at operating temp as on the factory 198cc green units.

For the turbo lads the fse is the one to get. 

The 230cc pink denso injectors are only 2 steps up on the denso injector size so you can reduce the fuel pressure to hit the sweet spot. These injectors are found on every Toyota of this era at and above 100hp to around 140hp, abit like jetiing a carb.

Rob is the 2.4bar you answered previously (first comment) with the vac line on or off. The previous answer I'd geuss off. 

In my answers I put vacume line on and off reading. 

Do it with the vacume line on. The setting you are being given here are with the vacume line on. 

Check the pressure settings have stayed the same after a run and the engine has got up to operating temp. 

Yeh as claymore has suggested, use arp head bolts. There is some debate whether the original head bolts are stretch bolts. 

After opening a few engines I would say they are. Even thew there does not seem to be much added lenght (stretching)  of the old bolts I've measured, if any. They do have the tell tale shanfer on the bolt, as a rule most bolts that have a final Deg angle torque to me means it's being taken into elasticity tensile peak. At the point of stretch the bolt helps clamp better (stretch bolt) 

The arp have a final torque setting of nm. This to me would suggest it a boron steel bolt even thew they do also have a shanffer on the bolt. 

It's very important to take your time and get it right. There are lots and lots of 4e and 5e head gasket issue, once an original engine has been opened. I can't find one instance were a original factory build engine head gasket had failed. This only leads me to think that there is something drastically different. 

Now because people are not using the Toyota head brackets/supports that come with the original engine, found on the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold designed to support the head. Head movement can't be ruled out here. The Head bolts are designed to clamp the head, to deal with combustion pressures. not have to deal with any other forces. 

also on the production line the head bolts are tightened down all evenly at the same time by a machined, because of this I would personally break the 3x torque settings given in auto data into 5x steps, this ensures a more evenly crushed composite head gasket, and a very thick head gaskets at that.

what is very strange to me is the fact the head bolts on the inlet side are a different length to the bolts on the exhaust side. This to me should have different final torque settings between these to bolts, the longer ones should have a higher torque setting. 

The composite gaskets are also impregnated with a adhesive. I would allow the head once fitted to stand for 6 to 10 hours before being run, also doing a final torque check after the engine has cooled down after first run. (This can't be done using stretch bolt).

The factory built engines I've opened the head gasket had adhered (bonded) to both the deck and head helping seal. All the out of factory built engines I've open using a composite head gasket there were none, not one that had even bounded at any point to either surface. Could this be because the adhesive compound in the gaskets has a shelf life.

 When I've done mine I've used wellseal on both sides of the gasket to help bound & seal. Please use gloves when using wellseal it's toxic. 

Use a original Toyota head gasket, or a vicktor reinz. 

Clean up both the block deck and have the head surface skimmed flat. 

Cut the heads off 2x of the old head bolts and hacksaw a flat screw screwdriver key slot into the top of them. These are used, placed into the block in opposite corners to guild the head back on when your ready to install. Also it is very important to check the deck dowl clearance in the head holes. After skimming a head the holes are shallower, the dowls can bottom out if the clearance is out. 

After you have cleaned the block beck surface. You then clean out the head bolt block holes, use an old head bolt to do this. make sure after cleaning you can screw each head bolt in right to the bottom of the screw hole by hand nice and easy. It removes any false torque/ impedance. 

That would be my way to do it, but I believe the man that knows everything on here is patch, you might want to ask him for alittle advice. Im very interested to see how this man builds. 

Oh gutted, horrible news. You would be able to get it weilded back on.