Frankieflowers

Just now, Frankieflowers said:

I tookfrom the box the last thermostat I had in the engine before changing it with one that opens at a lower temp  it was someone’s advise (don’t remember who).

with the smaller ring thermostat and perfect gasket it went perfectly in sight and it stopped leaking!

 

On 7/5/2022 at 8:13 PM, Claymore said:

stuck in the thermostat I guess. Hope the heads ok

It came from the new water pump 😂 

Yes I did use all genuine parts  

I think that the reason ehy it leaks is the loose thermostat gasket.

5 hours ago, Claymore said:

stuck in the thermostat I guess. Hope the heads ok

It came from the new water pump 😂 

Yes I did use all genuine parts  

I don’t want to understand what is going on. 
 

I hope it’s not the head gasket leaking externally. 
 

The liquid is getting out from underneath the thermostat cup. I tighten the bolts but after I went for a ride I noticed that it was still leaking. I will have to check again and I really hope it’s not a crack in the engine head. The lower bolt was loose but then I tightened it and it’s still leaking. 

Found it...

I agree. I checked the piston heads taking out the spark plugs and nothing seems different as usual. Hi drowned the water system and it was clean without any oil. I put new liquid coolant and leveled it. Went for a drive and after two hours I checked the level that was already down. I drove home and had to put at least 100 ML liquid. There is no area where I see sugar or leak tracks. Consider that external temperature right now is around 34°. The water pump is new because I did everything I could to refresh the engine before the swap. If it happens suddenly it means that something changed. I also checked the oil and it doesn’t seem contaminated. It could be the radiator but it doesn’t seem to show signs of leak or areas of evaporation. The radiator cap seems to be perfect and the spring works well. If the water would be in the oil then the oil would be foam. Right?

tomorrow I should be able to go to my mechanic and try the water system pressure to understand more about this leak. I really don’t want to destroy the engine. 

Thank you for your message.

I will check if the Pistons are clean or not. It doesn’t seem that the exhaust color is different and there is white smoke. 
The idle running up and down around 2000 RPM was weird. I want to look into it better especially because I associate that glowing mid range noise when accelerating in second gear. Very weird.

The radiator isn’t new but healthy. I will check today if there is a leak but I can already tell that there is no smell and tracks of sugary elements anywhere I can see. That is why I was thinking about the waterline to the turbo that could be old. Actually if you could tell me which hoses I could use to replace them?

yesterday night we had to put tapwater in to get home and the car was perfectly fine. What do you suggest now to avoid minerals ruin the system? Should I empty the system and put water coolant in or should I go with distilled water?

my mechanic told me I can go tomorrow to check leaks with the water pressure instrument. I didn’t know about the test to see if there is CO2 in the water coolant. I will check that as well. 

Hi guys.

Something weird happened. A mid pitch tone blowing noise came out in second gear while accelerating. The noise came out after the engine head has been rectified. The most obvious reason could be the inlet not being perfectly tight on the head. Let me know your thoughts. Don’t tell me it could be one of the intercooler hoses because I checked them several times.

The second weird thing that could be much worse is that yesterday evening RPM went weirdly up around 2500 going up and down. Right after water temperature started to raise quickly so I turned the engine off. I waited until I could open the radiator and noticed that it was dry. Two weeks ago I checked the water level that never has been an issue on this engine and the previous 4EFE. The water level was OK. I still put some extra liquid because I was about to travel 350 km. I don’t know what happened yesterday but I want to know your opinion. An old turbo water hose leaking? The big hoses are completely fine. I didn’t find any sugar around. The thermostat housing is perfect. New thermostat changed a few months ago. The engine never had any temperature issue. 
Listen to this. A famous mechanic I know said that when you do the process of rectification on the head level you might be careful to not create a gap that could get fire in and burn the gasket. There is a calculation you can do to see if you are within parameters but nobody does that. I don’t trust the people that did the job and I might be right. The water went somewhere. I never had temperature raising so what could’ve happened?

I had several conversations with Sacha from Sri Lanka.

this is not out of topic because the mechanical changes I am willing to apply to the engine should be done to make sure that adding power with the DET 3  piggyback will be safe.

in my head there are two options. After all my research I thought that modifying the stock exhaust manifold or buying a mild steel stock location manifold would be enough to gain more power using the piggyback without having mechanical problems like boost cream.

The second option is buying the steel relocation exhaust manifold that demands certain modifications. The water pipes on the turbo has to be modified. There has to be a new oil pipe added on the turbo. The turbo(cold side)  probably must be clocked 90° facing down. The air conditioning pipe Hass to be cut on the aluminum part and redirected externally in order to get space for the air filter turbo input. The EFI will have to go and as I want to keep the air filter on the battery side of the engine high will have to create a pipe that goes underneath the manifold and pops out on the battery side. This considering the fact that the Corolla has more space between the engine and the radiator.

I would like to your opinion because if the first option doesn’t create turbo issues it would be much more cheaper. Problem is though that Sacha doesn’t make them anymore and I don’t know where to find a mild steel stock location manifold. This option wouldn’t cost more than $700. The other option would cost me $950 for the manifold and $400 for the waste gate. I would have to spend at least $150 to create a new air filter pipe and a new hot pipe for the turbo.

What do you think?

Concerning the Piggyback, I didn’t find a base map to start so my brother will help me with the wiring but the precious data for the configuration will have to be somehow improvised because nobody I know have done this work on a 4efte. I still haven’t bought the DET 3 but instead I bought the SPL speed limiter that I still haven’t installed because I want to decide whether I will do the full work and use the speed limiter function on the piggyback. 

On 6/3/2020 at 8:25 PM, Claymore said:

Would make actuator very difficult to mount though so may end up external gate

This is my actual concern. So yes I want to upgrade. I found the CT9 kit from SASHA. External waste gate pf course. He told him to clock the turbo to get the hot exit facing down to shorten FMIC input. It would also leave more space to custom an air filter connection to the turbo that would be something like the stock efi. I don’t want an air filter on the belts Side because there is no space with the air conditioning pipe. I want to keep the air filter on the battery side. What do you suggest? I was looking for those plastic kits to build exhaust routes but they cost at least $500. I am not gonna move forward if I don’t solve the air filter issue. 

On 4/15/2017 at 12:49 AM, wakeabby14 said:

Item For Sale: Zisco CT9 Manifold mild steel



Item Condition & Description:
Ok so I have only had the manifold about a month or so but my CT9 decided to ruin my plans as i was about to fit the manifold i went to have a look at my penny on the CT9 and there was 3 huge cracks in the wastegate one crack was about 2mm wide and i could stick my fingernail in it with out touching the sides. I have now purchased a TF035 turbo kit from colin so this item is now for sale as it deserves a good home as i cant use it any more and im a bit gutted as i love the ramhorn manifolds.

The guy i got it off said it was on the car for 8-10k miles and had no problems with it, He also went over all of the welds again to re-strengthen them. Now there was a long surface crack along the top of one of the tubes on the manifold but did not go all the way through and before i cleaned and painted it there was no exhaust stains on the manifold near the crack at all, me and my brother plugged all the holes and used compressed air to make sure no air was coming through the crack we spotted and no leaks were found as if not i would have returned the manifold to the seller on ebay. The crack is just where the tubes meet on the manifold like i say i will get closer photos of this. But all in all the manifold is in perfect working order.

 

Due to me not having a feedback page for selling on here i am happy to list the item on my ebay account which has 100% feedback and been on there 4 years and sold over 50-60 if you dont feel comfortable sending the cash via paypal/bank transfer.

 

Message me if you have any questions i think i have covered everything.

 

Cheers josh


Price:£200



Pictures:



Payment & Shipping Details: Postage will be £15 in Uk mainland singed for delivery will not ship abroad.

Is it still for sale?

Did you solve the problem? do you suggest buying that manifold? I was thinking about it but I actually don’t know where to find it. 

On 5/19/2022 at 5:55 PM, Claymore said:

I don't think it's enough, I didn't remove much material from the + in the turbo side. The big restrictions are in the #2 and #3 runners, so your restrictions are still there. My build thread shows where to remove material. Or if you don't want to grind it you should buy a tubular manifold before you increase the boost.

The speed limit removal can be either electronic (hks sld) or a mechanical gearbox thing connected to the speedo drive cable, but that will change the speedo reading.

When we were in the process of grinding the exhaust manifold we figured that getting rid of material in the areas where the bolts get in would create weak areas that could crack. My friend didn’t feel like doing it. There are these Indian guys who sell a custom exhaust made of cast iron. I would have to buy that one and replace it. 
about the speed limiter I am curious to know how everyone got rid of it. 

Thank you. The first question is how can I get rid of the stock speed limiter? Can I install the Piggyback and just get rid of that to start?

we already modified the exhaust opening the turbo side ports. It’s similar to what you posted on your thread.  Is this enough??

On 5/15/2022 at 9:44 AM, Claymore said:

Plenty of people use TD04 setups on 4efte engines, most consider 200bhp "safe" on stock internals and the larger turbo will still be in its efficiency range where as the stock ct9 at this bhp level will most likely be off the edge of the efficiency map (high temp charge air).

I don't post on the other forum but it all depends on what level you want to be involved in the tuning process and how much control you need for your build.

Piggyback is basic level control, minimal wiring, only retarding timing and adjusting MAP sensor voltage to trick the Toyota ECU to adjust fuel. relatively simple to tune.

Things like Emanage ultimate are still a piggyback, more complex wiring, take full control of the injector pulse and timing control whilst leaving the stock ECU in place to run some of the car systems. Many standalone ECU's have also been installed this way using a special plug and play (breakout?) harness, it can get to a level where the stock ecu is still kept (for auto g'box a/c etc), standalone ecu has full control of engine management with looms for sequential injection and coil on plug etc. Ask @RobSR, he deals with this all the time. More complicated to tune.

Full standalone, lots of wiring, no stock ECU, very complex to tune. Wiring should be ok but tuning best left to the professionals.

Tuning on the road with any system is far from ideal, fuelling adjustment from WBO2 data logs are possible, but the timing retard is difficult to set for maximum, safe power without detonation cans / monitoring and best left to the safe environment of a dyno. 

Thank you very much. So at first they told me it was better to go with a EMU CLASSIC but aa I wanted to keep AC and RPM cluster working, I dropped the option, esperially because I don’t want to change the stock ct9. My tuner came with the idea of the DET 3 and I agree but The thing is that he doesn’t have experience with that piggyback and he doesn’t know my 4efte engine. He said that 1.2 bar on the ct9 wouldn’t be a problem. What do you think? I want to get rid of the limiter that cuts ignition at 185 km/h. I don’t need much more horsepower because I already have fun with what I have. So yes I could reach 180 HP and be happy. Hi also would want to keep the low boost switch to jump from 0,9 stock to 1.2.

what do you think about it?

Hi guys. I have to setup a DET 3 on a 4efte engine. Can someone help me with the fte ECU pinoit to the DET 3?

@Claymore @Sam44 @RoyalDutchie

On 3/19/2022 at 1:45 AM, Sam44 said:

Sounds like a plan I will look into it this weekend. 

 

Hi Sam. Dis you ever get a chance to look into the 4efe/4efte transmission compatibility with the Corolla E11 SW 7afe 4WD?

Hi guys.

what about the 7afe vs 4efe transmission compatibility? 

Nobody ever replied? I really want to upgrade to this piggyback but there are too many questions and gray zones. That is why I I still hold on to my stock tc9 and ecu. Anyway to get decent horsepower it will need special rods, pistons and a strong gearbox. In my opinion a td04 is only gonna stress the stock mechanics. . 

I am looking for a distributor housing because mine stopped working. One of the magnets is broken. It happened while I was getting the arm pin out to get to the oil gasket. Anyone can help?

Besides finding the big magnet broken, one of the small magnets popped out and I had to put it back in 

question: how are the magnets poaitioned and why would the distributor stop working after being opened to replace the gasket?

@Claymore@Sam44

I have the opposite situation. A Starlet Glanza ep91 4efte engine and ECU in a Corolla Ee110 Hatchback. The Corolla’s cluster is different as it is full electronic ignition. The RPM signal that comes from the Starlet ECU is dirty and the signal jumps.

same thing trying to pick a RPM signal from fte ECU to send it to IGN pin on the Corolla’s AC computer. 
 

I hope that you can help!

On 9/30/2014 at 6:18 AM, Adeeb1395 said:

NE (distributor

@Claymore

The situation is quite interesting. So to recap I have a Starlet for EFTEEP 91 engine with air-conditioning and obviously ECU in a Corolla E11 4efe with electronic and coil ignition. To make the Starlet AC work I need  NE and NE- signal that originally was going from the 4efe Corolla ECU from pin 1 to IGN pinout 4 on the AC computer. This signal he’s needed to have the RPM levels in order to permit the computer to switch the air conditioning on and off after engineer condition and to limit it’s work on high rpm. This system on the Starlet works differently because the computer is different. The principle is the same tho. The air conditioning computer needs a RPM signal to regulate its functioning.

The easiest way to solve this would be to get the Starlet ecu NE signal but I am not sure if it is possible to split this signal that could possibly create interferences to its original function. We are creating a custom, and adoption that needs to be tested but I want to be sure I don’t fuck up. With someone be able to help me understand if I can use the NE signal or is it another signal I can pick to give the air conditioner and computer and RPM signal?