Hey guys.  Where does AC2 go from the ECU pinout? I’m adapting the Corolla loom to the fte ECU and the last elements to match are AC2 (that isn’t on the 4efe pinout. The Corolla 4efe ECU has only AC1.

Can you help?

@Claymore

On 3/29/2022 at 3:20 PM, Sam44 said:

Having a catch up now. 

I am trying to figure out how to make the ep91 air conditioning work with the Corolla AC onboard computer. So I have the custom Starlet compressor with the Corolla AC loom that needs to be adapted. Apparently the Corolla COMPRESSOR has five wires compared to the three wires on the Starlet. The extra wires should control the LIMITER RPM CUR. It should also control the second fan.  I should choose the correct wires to make the compressor work with the ECU. If I could find a diagram or some help maybe I could make it work 
my brother help me a little bit to figure out communication from the ep91  ECU to the Corolla AC computer which is the same has the Starlet. What has to be understood is how to connect Starlet compressor to the Corolla air conditioning Loom that goes to the AC computer. Starlet compressor has less wires compared to the Corolla E11 4efe. 
I need the starlet wiring diagram to compare them. I don’t know where to find it. The only ones I have are for the mechanic part that I already used for the swap. 

5 hours ago, Claymore said:

Do you have photographs of the teflon seal? Any measurements? You might be able to find a similar seal or have a custom one made.

I was so upset that I didn’t take pictures and measures. My partner was helping me out so we put it back together. Let’s say we were hoping it would stop leaking for a bit...

I will wait that some of you guys will open a distributor and measure it for me because taking it apart means moving the magnets and needing to reposition them properly. Not a 20 minute job. 

i opened the distributor to stop the oil leak and discovered the teflon seal inside. It needs to be replaced but there is no information about it and no OEM on the parts website. Why?

I changed both gaskets but obviously the oil gets through the dented arm all the way in the rotor box. Please help.

 

@Claymore

i’m trying to figure out how to get the Glanza V AC motor work with the Corolla AC computer. The Corolla AC motor has more wire that should control the activation of the main fan as support when external temperature in high. The other function should be the switch off of the motor at high revs.

i am trying to make it work adapting the fte motor loom in the Corolla computer. Can you help me?

Another thing I still haven’t figure it out is that before we took the cylinder head off for repairmen the BOV setting was perfect. No flutter noise whatsoever. But after we put the engine back together and tested the car I could hear the flutter noise. So I registered the BOV spring pre-compression to fix it but even if I opened it as much as I could it still does the flutter noise. It doesn’t do it fully. It does it for a little bit before the BOV valve opens. I can’t figure out how to solve this. 

1 hour ago, RobSR said:

So when you unlock the timing (by removing the bridge) your saying it doesn’t go to 0?

If so that’s normal, most engines idle at 15-20 deg 

Exactly. What is weird is that when we closed the engine after fixing the head we did the procedure and the timing went from 10 to 0° when taking the bridge off. Of course we never tried this procedure before so I don’t know if it was doing it before but after that experiment it kept going from 10 to 13 or 15°. I thought it was wrong because I read that it shouldn’t go higher when on idle. If you say it is normal I will stop worrying.

22 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Have you solved the issue. 

We managed to refurbish the distributor. It works very well. The only thing that I still don’t understand is why the timing set to 10° doesn’t go to zero when taking the diagnostic bridge off. It goes the other way around 15° instead  

Today we pulled out the distributor and we opened it to replace the bearing. Unfortunately I did not find any replacement kit on the Internet (besides the 2 gaskets, rotor and cap) and it is impossible to find the internal Teflon oil gasket. I figured it out opening it. The Toyota manual doesn’t show what is inside the mechanism. Your video was helpful but the Starlet distributor is different. The magnets moved so thanks to the manual I’ve managed to distance the magnets and get get back in to nominal  measures. I’m glad it worked out. . 

How do I align the magnet supports to make the arm move smoothly? 

14 hours ago, Claymore said:

I'm sure the 4 pin tps does have an idle contact (see diagram a few post up) then it is a variable resistance sensor when it's off idle. It needs to be set up with feeler gauges.

Ask Jay if he will look in the official Toyota manual for the 4efte auto procedure.

The access to the TPS screws is limited (might be easier in the corolla). You can try to loosen them as it is on the car. From my experience the screws will have corroded into the throttle body and you will have difficulty turning them. Try it and see mate, but don't round them off.

 

Thank you  I managed to get the screws off. I replaced the sensor. at first it was off idle position but then I moved it just enough to work properly without getting idle up %. It works fine. I still haven’t find out why I feel that blowing noise wind the turbo gets on boost and I still feel that the timing isn’t perfect. Tomorrow I will bring the car to my partners shop to replace the distributor rotor and cover. I will try to replace the bearing that I bought with the one side ceiling that should stop oil from leaking in without having to replace the original rubber gasket (that isn’t mentioned anywhere). @Jay

if the mechanics work fine after all, if the intercooler system is working fine as before, then what should be making that glowing noise when boost reaches its top pressure? I can’t wait to figure out what happened to the timing and I hope to solve these issues as soon as possible. 

Hey guys. I received the new distributor cap, rotor, NGK wires and dust cat seal from Japan. I already change the small gasket on the cam when we opened the engine. Although there is still a small leak in the distributor cap. I read around that it might be the bearing or the bearing ceiling gasket. It could be leaking around the shaft. we did take care of putting ceiling paste in the proper position to avoid it but it still leaks. This is why I also bought a new bearing. I haven’t found information about a distributor regeneration on this model. Do you guys have experience of putting one apart and replacing these parts for regeneration?

I also received the new TPS. I would like a piece of advice to change it. I understand the procedure about the position and electric check that has been done and I would like to know if the throttle has to be unbolted to do the job. 
 

if I am correct, the four pin TPS reads from 0 to 100 with its fader. There is no switch. The three pin TPS works differently but that is not my case. 

1 hour ago, Claymore said:

It's best practice to disconnect the battery before working on the electronics to prevent shorts / sparking problems.

There must also be a procedure for calibrating the new tps compared to throttle opening angle so the idle contact only connects at idle, as soon as the throttle is open a fraction the idle contact must open. Loosen screws, turn tps, check for continuity, feeler gauges etc..?

I will disconnect the battery and replace the TPS. I will try the voltage that must be between 3 and 7. I did not find any procedure besides making sure that the sensor is installed properly. I am still looking for a video to see if I can get it off without disassembling the throttle. 

How do I change the 4 pin RPS on the 4efte? Do I need to reset the ECU after? HOW? @Sam44 @Claymore

9 hours ago, Sam44 said:

I'll lookin to the 4wd gearbox. See were the transfer box of is located. 

Thank you. If you can help me to confirm parts I can think about buying the car to use the Sasi and make the Corolla 4efte a 4WD!

Thank you. What is your suggestion to get a four-wheel-drive differential on my Corolla? The 1.8 4AFE Corolla SW could be perfect for the swab but someone told me that the differential isn’t bolt on. Also concerning prices I am quite sure that buying the car for 2000 and €600 might be more convenient than finding separate parts to build up the rear transmission and shaft. The fuel tank Hass to be replaced and the best option would be to have a complete car to use for the swap. 

On 12/22/2012 at 3:01 PM, Xpect said:

I personnally would go for the 6-Speed Gearbox of the Corolla E11

I swapped a Glanza FTE EP91 in my E11 Corolla keeping the Corolla gearbox and it’s amazing.

i’m looking for a LSD tranny for my left hand dryer Corolla. Anyone can help?

Hi guys.

I swapped a 4efe with a 4efte engine in a Corolla E11. I am researching info to convert to 4WD. What’s are the options? I was told that the 4afe Corolla E11 SW 4WD won’t fit the 4efte engine. What do you think?

8 hours ago, Claymore said:

Found this on another forum....

From the diagram looks like the idle contact is a switch.

Test between E2-IDL with continuity setting (beeeeeeeep when at idle, open circuit off idle position)

Test between VTA-VC with resistance setting (resistance should change smoothly as the throttle is turned.)

That's how I would test it.

The EP82 4efte use 89452-14020 for 89-92

The EP82 / EP91 4efte use 89452-22090 for 92-99

I just spoke to my brother that the other day came by to test the TPS. We ran this test already and we discovered that with the opening of the throttle the tension was jumping in the mid range area and would then go back to lower levels of tension. This is a symptom of consumed graphite. This is why I bought a new one from Japan to see if it will solve the problem. 

I bought from Japan a new TPS and a new rotator with NGK wires. I also bought a new distributor cap. I read it just in case so I have everything fresh. 

8 hours ago, Claymore said:

Found this on another forum....

From the diagram looks like the idle contact is a switch.

Test between E2-IDL with continuity setting (beeeeeeeep when at idle, open circuit off idle position)

Test between VTA-VC with resistance setting (resistance should change smoothly as the throttle is turned.)

That's how I would test it.

The EP82 4efte use 89452-14020 for 89-92

The EP82 / EP91 4efte use 89452-22090 for 92-99

This is a useful information. Thank you very much  Today I set the timing from 7° back to 10° to see how it would react. The engine is running better in mid range and let’s say it’s back to normal behavior. I still have to run the test you suggested because it is obvious that it isn’t acting to its normal specifications. 

12 hours ago, Claymore said:

FYI never inspected an actual 4efte TPS. This info is from ECU pinouts and forum posts and my experience with the EP91 4efe TPS.

As far as I know the Automatic 4efte uses a potentiometer (variable resistance) style throttle position sensor. But the ECU pinouts also mention an idle sensor (switch?). So it may have a switch to show closed throttle and variable resistance for throttle angle.

9 E2 = Sensor earth

10 VTA / PSW = Throttle angle (fte Auto) / Full throttle (switch, fte manual)

11 VCC = 5v power

12 IDL = Idle position (throttle closed)

How many contact pins does the sensor have? 

Does the ECU show any error codes?

How are you measuring the sensor? Which pins are you checking?

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Starlet 4efe EP91 which I have checked with a multi meter=

18 VCC = 5v (power)

16 E2 = Sensor Earth (earth)

17 VTA = Throttle angle (signal)

I've checked the TPS on my EP91 4efe starlet and it shows variable resistance between pins (3) VTA and (1) VCC when the throttle is turned.

Hope this helps!

Thank you. Pin one and three are the feeder. The sensor has four pins. It jumps weirdly at a certain point of the throttle opening position that is what makes the acceleration weird between 2000 and 4000 RPM. 

On 2/28/2013 at 11:04 PM, rmsnoel said:

We talk about timing in degrees of engine rotation. Your sparkplugs spark at whatever degrees before the piston reachs the top. Like yer man says we can then advance this alittle more or retard it alittle less. When I talk about base timing its when setting timing by adjusting the distributor. After this the engine adjusts it back and fourth by its self. My base timing is 12degrees but the ecu runs it at say 25-30degrees when Im revving it. Thats why the escort guy was at 33degrees at 5000rpm but his base timing would be set at say 10-15degrees.

 

 

 

 

Buy a haynes manual for a 1993-1997 corolla, youll love it

 

I am experiencing something weird. I had to take my cylinder head off to get welded because of a small crack and ever since I put it back it didn’t react normal. Everything is set as specifics. First time we tried the timing in the diagnostic mode we put it at 10° and without diagnostic mode it would go down to zero. After we took the cylinder head off again to set shims the timing changed. Set at 10° in diagnostic mode would raise to 15° without the bridge. What could have changed? Thank you. 

I checked the voltage output of the TPS. It jumps out of scale when opening the throttle slowly. This should mean that it doesn’t work smoothly.

I tried to find a new one but I cannot find it. Could you help?

The new reference n. Of Denso 198500-3011 is 

On 2/22/2022 at 1:57 PM, candy_red said:

Its really that easy though no need to worry about it. Its just a little time consuming.

I’m unable to open the file in italy.