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Frankieflowers

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Posts posted by Frankieflowers

  1. On 10/5/2016 at 7:51 AM, PureRage said:

    anybody else have an idea what can cause this?

     

    I swapped a a 4efe with a 4efte from a Glanza V ep91 AT in a Corolla E11 MT. The engine revs go up very well in every gear. Today I found out that the cuts ignition at 190 km/h. I don’t know why it happened. I just changed the fuel pump with a Walbro GSS 342 255 LPH.. Any idea why the engine cut power?

  2. On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

    test this with a fuel pressure gauge

    This is exactly what I will tell the mechanic to do on Wednesday after installing the new fuel pump you suggested me to buy. Thanks!

    The other issue I’m dealing with is the RPM signal. I read all I could about it and because the two engines have different ignition systems, the Corolla has direct wire from the ECU. The FTE doesn’t because of its coil ignition. So they are talking about RPM booster signal circuits that are basically low pass filters on the coil output to be reduced to lower voltage between five and 12. I still would like to try something without it. Maybe you have an idea?

  3. On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

    make sure any engine vacuum lines coming out of the engine are blocked off and the fuel tank vent line in open/has a vent valve like i suggested.  

    I exactly did what you told me already a month ago putting motorbike fuel tank vacuum valve on the fuel tank metal exhaust. It didn’t change so I bet is another reason that causes the problem. 

  4. On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

    i cant see the canister or lack of one causing a problem. i run with out one creating a vacuum/negative pressure in the fuel tank pulls the fuel back into the tank. this puts your fuel pump under increased load. 

    My friend. I think I found the reason why this happens. The 4efe fuel pump runs lower pressure compared to the Glanza. I bought the fuel pump that you suggested months ago. The Wallbro 255. My mechanic will install it on Wednesday and we will see if I will solve the problem. The other point of discussion was the fuel rail inlet valve that could be damaged and doesn’t close properly when the engine is off. So I went to search for a new one but I cannot find it. My mechanic said that there is a trick where you push in the rear side that compresses the spring. But we would try this trick only after changing the fuel pump. What do you think about this?

  5. 4EFE with electronic ignition (with a 4EFTE (automatic tranny from a Starlet Glanza V) in a 1998 Corolla E11 bug eye I am tryimg to make the RPM tachometer work. The FTE ECU doesn’t have RPM signal because it’s a different system that works with the coil ignition.

    is this really what I need to make the RPM tachometer work?
     

    https://kauppa.soe.fi/en/products/autosport-coil-pack-tach-adapter?_pos=1&_sid=a18100481&_ss=r&variant=39377859018795

  6. Happy to hear from you @Claymore and @Sam44.

    I’m going to list the issues i am working on.

    charcoal on makes the tank blow internal pressure when installed. If disentailed it doesn’t it goes away. There are two metal pipes that come out of the lower left side of the engine bay firewall. One goes to the engine and the other to the Corolla top charcaol where the small pipe gors to the 4efte solenoid. Correct? Why is the fuel pressure dropping overnight? It didn’t happen before I swapped to the engines.

    The small DOV pipe that goes to the inlet is broken  i keep glueing it but it brakes  So I was think to replace it with blow off valve that would be connected as the original only without the pipe that goes to the engine cover. This pipe would need a filter. Can you help me choose blow off valve, good pipes and filter? 
     

    I ran diagnostics and I got 22 and 42. Considering that the 4efte came from an automatic car, I had to bridge the automatic  gear function connector (as a video described). The enfine check light is on and I would like to solve the twho issues and turn that check light off. Can you help?

    The RPM in the dashboard jumps. My brother said that it is probably caused by the different communication between the dashboard instrument and the ECU.  He said that the only solution would be to put a filter that translates one signal to the other in order  any idea?

     

     

     

  7. On 9/15/2021 at 6:29 PM, Claymore said:

    Did your corolla 4efe have the same TVV valve or was it an electronic solenoid?

    Not as the one you showed. I guess it was electronics. The Corolla was more advanced compared to the Starlet. It also had electronica ignition. Anyway I believe that there is no block on the fuel chain from the tank to the canoster. Call though I remember hearing the pressure coming out of the tank when I was opening it. I read that it happens when the canister Hass to be replaced. I will send you pictures as soon as possible but I understood that the system is the same for both cars. The turbo engine has the solenoid pipe that goes in the small input on top of the canister. The other one goes to the gold metal split from the tank. The other pipe from it goes to the inlet as you described. I have to check the voltage at ignition. My friend who is taking care of the electric swap did go through difficulties as he is a new school mechanic. He doesn’t have much experience with 90s cars. I had to help them with the logic of it to go step-by-step and most of the functions are good. The car runs perfectly went on and there is no problem with the fuel pump. I did purchase a WalBro but I will put on before I change the intercooler and prepare for mapping the ECU. but this will only happen when everything works fine. The engine comes from an automatic Starlet so I I’m struggling to get the 42 error off and finally see the engine check light off. Can you help me with this? I will send pictures and the feedback with the voltage test of the fuel pump on ignition mode before cranking. 

     

    I did go through all the steps to check why the fuel goes back to the tank and it doesn’t start the engine properly when the car is sitting there for a few hours  The fuel rail return is connected properly. The two pipes from the tank are connected properly and I smell gasoline from the one that goes into the canister  The fuel pump works properly because when the engine runs it has no issue  The fuel filter of his new. I haven’t changed the fuel pump yet and it’s fuel filter but I don’t think that is the issue  I did notice though that when I go completely zero with your commission key and crank it starts the engine earlier than when I only go one click and restart the ffuel pump  maybe it’s an impression but I don’t know  

    i’m also trying to figure out how to translate the coil signal that goes to the Starlet RPM and adapted to the modern communication system that the Corolla uses I read that there is a circuit that uses a low pass filter to adapt the signal but I am not sure the wavelength is the same  can you help with this?

    352FDF35-A9E5-4BEC-920D-7BF9619675F1.jpeg
     

     

    E2E5532C-38DD-4F60-91FF-34055930F1A2.jpeg

     

     

     

     

     

  8. 4 hours ago, Claymore said:

    Could be the fuel pressure regulator or pump not priming. I did ask if any glanza owners new if the pump was supposed to prime but no answer.

    Also what is the voltage at the fuel pump when trying to start the engine the first time? Is it low voltage that then increases?

    First of all thank you for the detailed explanation. Out of all you said there are two factors I have to check. The first one is the exhaust pipe from the tank to the canister. The one that could be blocked. I doubt it is because I smell fuel when I take it out from the canister. So that pipe comes from a metal split. One pipe goes to the engine and the other one to the canister. The other input on the top of the canister should be the vacuum connection that I connected to the starlet engine. What I would like to know if I connected the canister correctly. I think I did because it’s the same system for both car. Although the Corolla doesn’t have the vacuum system that the turbo engine has. We have to figure this out.

    regarding the voltage at ignition on the fuel pump I still haven’t checked. All I can say is that before cranking on ignition position I hear the fuel pump activate and it does activates after a few seconds when the engine doesn’t turn on. This is why I don’t understand how come I smell fuel and I hear the pump but the engine doesn’t start at least after the fourth try. 

  9. Happy to hear from you @Claymore and @Sam44.

    I’m going to list the issues i am working on.

    charcoal on makes the tank blow internal pressure when installed. If disentailed it doesn’t it goes away. There are two metal pipes that come out of the lower left side of the engine bay firewall. One goes to the engine and the other to the Corolla top charcaol where the small pipe gors to the 4efte solenoid. Correct? Why is the fuel pressure dropping overnight? It didn’t happen before I swapped to the engines.

    The small DOV pipe that goes to the inlet is broken  i keep glueing it but it brakes  So I was think to replace it with blow off valve that would be connected as the original only without the pipe that goes to the engine cover. This pipe would need a filter. Can you help me choose blow off valve, good pipes and filter? 
     

    I ran diagnostics and I got 22 and 42. Considering that the 4efte came from an automatic car, I had to bridge the automatic  gear function connector (as a video described). The enfine check light is on and I would like to solve the twho issues and turn that check light off. Can you help?

    The RPM in the dashboard jumps. My brother said that it is probably caused by the different communication between the dashboard instrument and the ECU.  He said that the only solution would be to put a filter that translates one signal to the other in order  any idea?

     

     

     

  10. I have a problem when starting the car. Only the first time it doesn’t start right away. It must be the fuel pressure low that drops because the canister is missing I need a solution.

    C9C190B0-AEA8-41E2-B0F8-EA7884D93159.thumb.jpeg.9908049c72b06b7cdc5f04322b866729.jpeg

    The Corolla doesn’t have a vacuum pump as the Starlet so I need to know if it creates an issue. I terminated the cacuum that goes to the steering pump on the Corolla as the Starlet pump doesn’t have the RPM vacuum integrated. I was told it is not gonna create any issue.

    34020626-FB43-4DF9-B9B0-9293BF57BE8C.thumb.jpeg.0dd97753668beed488a47d3c9a1b50a2.jpeg

    About the canister  I left the vacuum pipe that connects to the canister blank  I think it is creating the tank return pressure issue  What should I do?

    The factory BOV has the small vacuum plastic pipe exit broken and need a replacement. Which solution should ai go for? Blow Pop Off? Which one? Which filter am I gonna connect to the gas pipe that goes in the engine cover?

    D6BA5841-F293-4D6B-BEF1-CE212CD928AF.jpeg.6b38ad41435731736713a1f01b5fc608.jpeg
     

    The alternator doesn’t charge. I swapped it but arill nothing. It’s definitely an electric issue and the ECU is not telling him to charge. What should ai do?

    Thanks

    @Jay @Claymore @RoyalDutchie @Sam44

  11. 3 hours ago, Sam44 said:

    I've just seen these now.

    I will update this with some answers. 

    Sorry if the intercooler did not fit. It's always best to measure any spaces you are thinking of using for the intercooler and get one to fit. 

    To save money you can go to the breakers yard and get some great (large/small) front mount cores to fit in any space as well as piping. 

     

     

    I wish I could do that my friend but it doesn’t work like that in Italy. breaker yards do not have anything useful  do I have to find everything on the Internet  please help me find these answers for the questions I wrote in the last posts  

     

  12. On 8/26/2021 at 6:54 PM, Sam44 said:

    are you going to use a front mounted intercooler?. if not and you are using the standard top mount please make sure you use a sealed vent/bonnet scoop. when i say sealed i mean it needs to seal ontop of the top mount intercooler edges. this is a must do. 

    So far we cut a bonnet and put a grill bit the seller didn’t send me the plastic IC cover. How do you suggest to seal it? Yes, the plan is to put a front mount IC, but the one you suggested me to buy last year is too high and it won’t fit. I don’t want to cut the front chassis to fit it so I need a different front mount IC solution. I will have to sell the one I bought. In the mean time I need to seal the top mount IC.

     

  13. On 8/29/2021 at 7:03 PM, Sam44 said:

    Hi! Just saw your answers. Connection was bad in Sardinia. Remember you suggested a IC with a pipes kit last year? Those are the ones I already bought. In order to fit the front IC I have to cut the chassis and put a U bar to set the IC. I first want to make sure the engine runs well with all the vacuums and stuff. I am right now need to make The upper intercooler efficient. I still didn’t find the plastic top. I asked the guys who sold me the engine and they don’t have it either. Then I will have to add aluminum in plates around the hole in the hood and make a rain collector that can get the water out of the way from the injectors. Anyone can show me an example?

  14. On 8/26/2021 at 6:54 PM, Sam44 said:

    are you going to use a front mounted intercooler?. if not and you are using the standard top mount please make sure you use a sealed vent/bonnet scoop. when i say sealed i mean it needs to seal ontop of the top mount intercooler edges. this is a must do. 

    So far we cut a bonnet and put a grill bit the seller didn’t send me the plastic IC cover. How do you suggest to seal it? Yes, the plan is to put a front mount IC, but the one you suggested me to buy last year is too high and it won’t fit. I don’t want to cut the front chassis to fit it so I need a different front mount IC solution. I will have to sell the one I bought. In the mean time I need to seal the top mount IC.

     

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