ste91

180 KPH is somewhere around 110 MPH.

I'm not sure if doing it the other way removes the 112mph speed limit? Or maybe I'm thinking of something else.

lol nice numberplate, you need a big turbo on it now And how come you went for an auto? Your N/A is auto aswell isn't it?

I don't like french cars either, but Cal you talk so much crap, the only reason your 306 was unreliable is because you had messed around with it.

trade it for some snaps of your bird? yeah £10 posted is fine mate

Now I've caused some confusion haha I've got a 4EFTE rotor arm, I bought it a few months ago when I serviced my N/A thinking FE/FTE rotor arms were the same but they aren't. They're £17 from Toyota, it's yours for a tenner if you want it, no use to me - I don't think I'll leave it lying around until I get a GT it will get lost or something lol.

Sparky I've got a 4EFTE rotor arm here packaged and ready to send off lol... Someone was going to buy it but didn't get back to me.

Depending on how long it is before I can afford insurance on a GT I'm aiming for 100+ with the N/A

Yeah that's the stupid thing about it, all you're doing is getting back the power you lost from worn out parts. The N/As are very nippy for a 1.3 but I had a ride in a GT the other day and it's a whole different story once you've got some boost involved lol.

You'll love it even more with a rolla mani on there. I did a similar thing to you a few months back and got the same result, first I did a service changing the spark plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm, made a nice difference and ran alot better. Few weeks after that I had the oil flushed and changed, made a big difference, old oil must have been sludgey or something. Then I got a rolla mani, much better response throughout the rev range and plenty more power top end. After that got an induction kit and again made a good difference to mid-top end of the rev range. Before it used to get to 80 and run out of steam, now it gets to 90 easily and keeps going.

Have you got a corolla inlet manifold on there aswell? And how is your airfilter set up, used new piping or the rubber one?

No my handbrake got plenty of use in the snow lol. If you have a garage or driveway just do what Ryno said, I wouldn't risk it out on the street though especially if it's near any hills. The other thing you could do is just chuck some hot/warm water over it, just make sure to test the brakes as you drive away.

lol that inlet mani looks the same as an exhaust mani when they're red hot

Welcome to UKSC. What's insurance like for an 18 year old on a GT? Surely it's over £2k? And what company are you with?

I would say no to his lifestyle. Football is incredibly boring. I'd rather be on one of these all day:

What's up with the back wheels being so far in under the arches?

lol fucking footballers, overpaid twats

Silver and black looks pants, go for white.

I'd rather keep the CT9 on 0.9 - 1 bar. If Wallace has 190bhp on a CT9 then that's good enough for me, then maybe go for forged internals and hybrid in the future but tbh it's all just dreaming for now, rather stay with a sensible target instead of bullshitting myself.

I think I'll settle for a tidy 180-190 then. Rather not go into the expensive forged rebuild side of things tbh.

Would 180-190 be a more reasonable figure? And would one of those standalone ECU's cope with running up to 1 bar of boost or will there still be a fuel cut problem?

About the ECU's (JAM, Blitz, etc...) are they just a straight swap? (Self learning?)

Bringing this old topic back up again save making a new one, I just want to go over it and get a solid idea what needs doing to get around the 200 mark. There's a possibility of me getting a GT next year so I want to know what's involved as it's obviously more complicated than a non turbo. 200 seems to be a good target as it's a decent amount of power while still being able to keep many standard parts, internals, injectors, etc... I think the CT9 should be fine for 200bhp at 1 Bar, or am I pissing into the wind already? I've read the article in the tutorials and from what else I can gather this should be on the right track towards 200: A good full service Intake relocated to the front Full exhaust system Gutted cat or decat pipe Exhaust Manifold Actuator Port the wastegate or get an external one? FMIC E-Manage or a standalone ECU? oh and can't forget the BOV and of course the other things like boost gauge, boost controller...

Congrats, try Quinn Direct for insurance they were by far the cheapest for me.

lmao good one