Bildo

This topic really causes some controversy on the detailing forums that I'm on. From my (fairly basic) understanding of it, how the paint has dried varies this a lot. When a car has been freshly painted outgassing of the paint takes place, these have to be allowed to exit the paintwork. This means that it is not recommended that you wax the paint for a while after it has been freshly painted as this traps the chemicals in the paintwork meaning it's not allowed to 'breathe' them out. The wait period before being allowed to wax really does seem to be purely speculation, I've heard of some of the best bodyshops in the world waxing 48 hours after applying fresh paint, others recommending waiting up to 6 weeks. What I would do personally is this: Make sure you have a good read-up and find out EXACTLY how to wash a car properly to keep the paint perfect. I don't mean a simple bucket and sponge job, you'll need the two-bucket method along with a good washmitt and drying towel. You are allowed to polish the paint, I would expect that the bodyshop would've already done this by the time you get the car back anyway, so that isn't a problem. I would recommend avoiding Autoglym Super Resin Polish though as this contains sealant properties. I personally wouldn't apply any sealants or glaze after this stage, I would leave the paintwork for 2 months washing it reguarly to make sure it's maintaned as well as possible. I would then do a clay, polish, glaze, sealant and wax. Based on what I have recommended for the washing stage, here are the products I recommend to you: http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/p...products_id=210 http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/p...products_id=217 http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/p...;products_id=28 http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/p...products_id=213 I hope that helps you out a bit mate.

Phil - I can't believe you use a blade! Get rid! Liam - I would also do what Phil mentioned with not properly wiping the towel on the paint, I collect as much as I can with purely pulling the towel over the paintwork and then usually go over with the quick detailer and a MF to get the last bits. This is quite an overly precautious procedure though. Rob - If you guys can give me a definite order I'll see what the best price I can get for you is. I have also just noticed that DetailedObsession no longer do the Poorboys waffle weave that I have (Found here: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/po...owel-cat5.html) I'm not sure why that is but I'll find out and let you guys know if anything better has been released lately.

Rick and I are still planning on making this, unlike Si, who's shit. We'll probably be late as normal but we'll get there as soon as we can.

Moved from classifieds section mate, please try and post in the right sections. Thanks!

Moved to the correct section. Not really recommended.

If you have a decent level of wax on your car it will make the car harder to dry due to the wax beading. When using a hose if you take hoze nozzle part off so that you literally have a stream of water similar to a tap running this will get rid of the bulk of the water. This is because there is too much water at a sudden time for it to bead and it therefore runs off the car. After that, as you know - I use the Poorboys drying towel that I have, you won't find anything better for the job mate. You can also use the Poorboys Spray n Wipe as a drying aid which makes the job even easier still. I would always avoid using a chamois unless you really have to, due to the way they're made they transfer anything on the surface of the material onto the paintwork however the drying towel doesn't do this. Hope that helps dude.

I found Channel U always seemed to be a bit overly plagued with videos that looked like they had literally been recorded on a phone half the time. While it was nice to see something you wouldn't normally see on other channels it sometimes went a bit too long before anything decent came on.

I wish Dizzee would go back to his Boy In Da Corner type stuff, I absolutely hate all his new commercial club cheese crap.

I have responded to your most recent PM mate, sorry for the delay. I have just posted up an SRP FAQ in the Detailing section, please take a look as it will most likely give you more information. HERE

Since SRP is arguably the most commonly used 'off-the-shelf' polish out there I thought this would come in handy to people. It was originally written by Matthijs on DetailingWorld and the original thread can be found HERE with many more Q and A's. I personally asked Matthijs for permission to post this up on UKSC to which he kindly agreed. What is Autoglym Super Resin Polish (SRP)? SRP is probably one of the most popular products from Autoglym. It is a lightly abbrasive polish with a lot of fillers and it also contains a light sealant. What will the fillers do? Fillers fill up swirls and light scratches for a certain amount of time. Since there is also a light sealant in SRP it means that it offers protection for maybe 1 or 2 months. The fillers will disolve after some time so each time you wash your car, more swirls will be visible. To keep that nice looking paint after when you just polished your car with SRP, you have to polish with SRP about 6 times a year. How much correction does SRP offer? The cuttingfactor from SRP between 0 to 10 would be 0,5 or 1. It isn't meant to offer real correction, although it gives a corrected look to your car when applied correctly. How can you apply SRP? SRP can be applied by hand, dual action polisher, random orbital polisher or rotary polisher. How do you apply SRP by hand You can apply SRP by hand using foam pads like Meguiar's Gold Class High Tech Applicator Pad, German Applicator, or any other foam applicator. Microfibre pads work too. Apply a few Skittle sized blobs on your applicator and spread it on the paint. Work on areas which have the size of about half a door. Then work it really well untill it becomes a little hazy or clear. Then buff off with a microfibre towel. How do you apply SRP by machine? Use a light polishing or polishing pad. Apply a few Skittle sized blobs on your applicator and spread it on the paint. Work on areas which have the size of about half a door. Then work it really well untill it becomes a little hazy or clear. Then buff off with a microfibre towel. Can you apply more layers of SRP Yes you can. The more layers you give your car, the more swirls that will be filled. Up to 5 layers would work really good. Does SRP need to cure? It's not necessary, but you can let it cure. Can you use a glaze after SRP? Yes, you can use a glaze after SRP. Can you top SRP with a sealant and/or wax? Yes, one of both or both works great. A really good sealant to top SRP with is Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection. A good wax after SRP is Autoglym High Definition Wax but any other wax will work fine, as long it won't contain cleaners since cleaners remove the fillers. Can SRP leave scratches or marring? No, but dirty applicators or too aggresive pads with the machine can. How do you remove old SRP from the paint? By polishing or claying the paint. Can you use SRP on vinyl stickers? Yes, you can. Don't apply it to harsh, but other than that it won't do damage. Will SRP do a good job on faded colors? SRP will do a great job on faded colors! Can SRP be used on wheels? SRP leaves a great finish on wheels, along to some protection against brake dust and road grime! How to prevent dust with SRP? Lightly spritz your pad with water or detailerspray. This will give the SRP a thinner coverage with less dust.

Haha not guilty!

I really want my original one, noone seems to make them fully custom though. They seem to have preset templates and only a couple of things can be changed, for instance my plate had 3 numbers (500) and these plate creators only seem to allow 2. Here was mine back in Japan:

Sounds like you've been reading into this Rob. I have returned your PM b4d1sy.

Rob - Haha, thanks dude, I try hard! b4d1sy - My personal preference with wax is only available online, (well not at retail stores at least.) I personally use Collinite 476S, this is one of the most durable waxes on the market and with 2-3 layers can literally provide constant protection for around 6 months. If I were you, I'd wash the car, clay it, give it a go over or two with SRP until you see the results you were hoping for and then do 2-3 layers of Collinite. Collinite is a paste wax it's not a liquid, so although it might sound expensive you will use small amounts when doing the entire car so that tin will last you a very long time. You can get it here: http://www.detailedobsession.com/catalog/p...;products_id=55

Helpful response that mate, worth bringing up a 4-odd month old thread for.

Do you mean actual Japanese license plates? I can only assume Kennedy thought you meant a Jap sized plate for a UK license plate. If so, Halfords wouldn't do the Jap ones, well at least I very much doubt it anyway. Hopefully I'm wrong, I've got some pictures of my car in Japan and I would love to get the plate it had redone!

I'm down between Basildon and Southend and I will definitely be keeping my eye out for this mate, theiving scum!

T-Cut isn't necessary, normal polishes will do. I personally would never t-cut an entire car, I hate the stuff. Buy something that's less abrasive like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, give it a good going over and keep polishing until the shine comes through. After that buy yourself some decent wax and work panel by panel waxing and wiping off (or as per bottle instructions) and then do the whole process again so that you build up 2-3 layers. This will enhance the shine and keep it locked in.

Liking that mate, it looks tidy.

This was in Classifieds > Wanted mate, I have moved it.

What is that used for? Pretty spectacular looking.

Nismo?

Even us mods have to abide by the 20 second rule I'm afraid!

Very nice, what wheels are they on the other one?