Bildo

No problem at all mate, glad it all made sense. Washing obviously plays a vital part in keeping a car clean so you want to be as careful as you can be during washing. If you can afford a full respray you can afford to maintain it! Here is a guide on how to wash a car properly, this will ensure that you suffer from minimal 'swirl marks' and that the paint stays looking as fresh as it should. I would give it a proper read and make sure you understand all the steps, if you're unsure of anything let me know. http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4637

This topic really causes some controversy on the detailing forums that I'm on. From my (fairly basic) understanding of it, how the paint has dried varies this a lot. When a car has been freshly painted outgassing of the paint takes place, these have to be allowed to exit the paintwork. This means that it is not recommended that you wax the paint for a while after it has been freshly painted as this traps the chemicals in the paintwork meaning it's not allowed to 'breathe' them out. The wait period before being allowed to wax really does seem to be purely speculation, I've heard of some of th

Phil - I can't believe you use a blade! Get rid! Liam - I would also do what Phil mentioned with not properly wiping the towel on the paint, I collect as much as I can with purely pulling the towel over the paintwork and then usually go over with the quick detailer and a MF to get the last bits. This is quite an overly precautious procedure though. Rob - If you guys can give me a definite order I'll see what the best price I can get for you is. I have also just noticed that DetailedObsession no longer do the Poorboys waffle weave that I have (Found here: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata

Rick and I are still planning on making this, unlike Si, who's shit. We'll probably be late as normal but we'll get there as soon as we can.

Moved from classifieds section mate, please try and post in the right sections. Thanks!

Moved to the correct section. Not really recommended.

If you have a decent level of wax on your car it will make the car harder to dry due to the wax beading. When using a hose if you take hoze nozzle part off so that you literally have a stream of water similar to a tap running this will get rid of the bulk of the water. This is because there is too much water at a sudden time for it to bead and it therefore runs off the car. After that, as you know - I use the Poorboys drying towel that I have, you won't find anything better for the job mate. You can also use the Poorboys Spray n Wipe as a drying aid which makes the job even easier still. I w

I found Channel U always seemed to be a bit overly plagued with videos that looked like they had literally been recorded on a phone half the time. While it was nice to see something you wouldn't normally see on other channels it sometimes went a bit too long before anything decent came on.

I wish Dizzee would go back to his Boy In Da Corner type stuff, I absolutely hate all his new commercial club cheese crap.

I have responded to your most recent PM mate, sorry for the delay. I have just posted up an SRP FAQ in the Detailing section, please take a look as it will most likely give you more information. HERE

Since SRP is arguably the most commonly used 'off-the-shelf' polish out there I thought this would come in handy to people. It was originally written by Matthijs on DetailingWorld and the original thread can be found HERE with many more Q and A's. I personally asked Matthijs for permission to post this up on UKSC to which he kindly agreed. What is Autoglym Super Resin Polish (SRP)? SRP is probably one of the most popular products from Autoglym. It is a lightly abbrasive polish with a lot of fillers and it also contains a light sealant. What will the fillers do? Fillers fill up swirls and

Haha not guilty!

I really want my original one, noone seems to make them fully custom though. They seem to have preset templates and only a couple of things can be changed, for instance my plate had 3 numbers (500) and these plate creators only seem to allow 2. Here was mine back in Japan:

Sounds like you've been reading into this Rob. I have returned your PM b4d1sy.

Rob - Haha, thanks dude, I try hard! b4d1sy - My personal preference with wax is only available online, (well not at retail stores at least.) I personally use Collinite 476S, this is one of the most durable waxes on the market and with 2-3 layers can literally provide constant protection for around 6 months. If I were you, I'd wash the car, clay it, give it a go over or two with SRP until you see the results you were hoping for and then do 2-3 layers of Collinite. Collinite is a paste wax it's not a liquid, so although it might sound expensive you will use small amounts when doing the enti

Helpful response that mate, worth bringing up a 4-odd month old thread for.

Do you mean actual Japanese license plates? I can only assume Kennedy thought you meant a Jap sized plate for a UK license plate. If so, Halfords wouldn't do the Jap ones, well at least I very much doubt it anyway. Hopefully I'm wrong, I've got some pictures of my car in Japan and I would love to get the plate it had redone!

I'm down between Basildon and Southend and I will definitely be keeping my eye out for this mate, theiving scum!

T-Cut isn't necessary, normal polishes will do. I personally would never t-cut an entire car, I hate the stuff. Buy something that's less abrasive like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, give it a good going over and keep polishing until the shine comes through. After that buy yourself some decent wax and work panel by panel waxing and wiping off (or as per bottle instructions) and then do the whole process again so that you build up 2-3 layers. This will enhance the shine and keep it locked in.

Liking that mate, it looks tidy.

This was in Classifieds > Wanted mate, I have moved it.

What is that used for? Pretty spectacular looking.

Nismo?

Even us mods have to abide by the 20 second rule I'm afraid!