dave-gtturbo

But in your advert, you say: 1) I don't have time to use it or finish it (work and home commitments are mounting) 2) The car needs a fuel pump, filter, FPR and lines to finish it off...so it doesn't run. £800 from Toyota GT where the car lives is all it will take to finish the work and with that a remap up to around 300whp. Seems like it's not as little a deal as you're making out, especially for a 7 grand car. I like it, and hope to see it up and running again Dave

Not if it's cracked... Maybe scratched, a little but cracks are not good condition in my opinion. Dave

He's not just selling it though, he is open to a part exchange with another drift car. Dave

As above, also check that your pads aren't low, as this can also be a cause of the fluid reaching a low level when braking heavily Dave

Poor starlet

It amazes me that it took so many cars for it to be spotted...

In my opinion, unless your totally confident you have an engine which is in fantastic condition, and definetely doesn't have pieces of sludge blocking leaks or damaged seals/gaskets, there is no need to use an oil flush... Perhaps a little over protective, but it is the other side of the arguement! I haven't and wouldn't use an oil flush in mine personally. I stick to good synthetic oil, and regular changes! I know you can't make up for poor previous owners and that, but better safe than sorry! One more little thing, the frequency of oil changes is much more important than using a top cla

No bother, its a pleasure as always Dave

The first link is a bit dodgy http://www.tbdevelopments.com/catalog/prod...products_id=101 ^ Is the actual link Its 6 and half a dozen to be honest mate, its up to you Dave

She looks fantastic as always mate, my favourite Glanza rep without a doubt. Just need to get an FTE in there! Dave

As a rough guide... 0w40 5w40 10w40 15w40 Are all the same viscosity when fully warmed up. The difference in the first number simply highlights the viscosity when cold - The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the easier to circulate it will be. A larger difference between the two numbers highlights that is has mode additives, to give this effect. It is important therefore to maintain a good service schedule, or these additives will burn off and promote a sludgy buildup Its also very important to highlight, that even a 0w40 oil is nowhere near as thin when cold as any w40 oil is when

Yup, for an N/A a 10w40 would be ok Castol GTX is as good as any! Idrees - A 15w40 will provide the same warm protection as any w40 oil. However, when its cold, it'll be harder to circulate and cause less cold start (short journey) protection. I would switch to a 10w40 at least mate, of a good brand Personally, I use a 0w40 oil. This allows an excellent cold start protection (I do mostly short journeys) as it stays relatively thin when cold (not nearly as thin as when warm, and only as thin as any other w40 oil when warm). Mobil 1 0w40. However, I really keep an eye on the levels, as the

Its a bolt on and off you go mod mate, simple and straight forward. You'll probably find the car boosts a little harder (more pressure). On some cars, and some setups, it can boost so hard (with stock actuator, and no mods ot raise pressure) that it'll over boost (aka boost creep). If it does this badly, the boost level will creep up towards (and try to go over) fuel cut. This is usually around 12 psi... As a result of this, the car will cut the fuel supply to keep the tuning safe. Should this happen, you'll need to introduce a restriction into your new 'free flowing' setup. Either exhaust o

I'm sure that'll do it no harm (that mileage!) As for the sump plug, like you said eBay is probably the best (cheapest + easiest) way to get one Glad to help mate Dave

Well, I wouldn't waste the money on the likes of Royal Purple on an N/A personally, I'd get a bog standard 10w40, you'll see no noticable gains using anything special. The fte's use a more specialist oil because of the temperatures associated with a turbocharged car (namely, the temp of the turbo itself when under load). They break it down more easily and more quickly, and therefore need more common oil changes and higher quality oils are recommended. I'd get a Castrol GTX 10w-40, cheap and cheerful mate Available widely (motor factors, halfrauds etc) Also, there is no need to run to 4k, y

Sounds like it to me Dave

Its hard to say. Does it come on when you're driving it hard high up the revs? Particularly in higher gears? If so, almost certainly. If not, when does it come on exactly? Dave

Yea, I'd like to know the deal with the dent on the Veyron's driver side! Did James not drive the Zonda, I didn't see him in the Veyron? Also, it did fail, in an epic fashion. That Zonda F had a full carbon body too didn't it? Or were my eyes deceiving me lol? What a motor it is... Dave

I'm doing Software Engineering just now, and I HATE doing all nighters lol, I had to do 2 or 3 last year, and never again!

So have I, and everyone just piles the abuse on because of it lol... Its heating up on TGTT lol, pop in and have a peek, gv1.3(moderator on tgtt) posted this lol: Dave

I usually stick to GTA's, Pro Evo's, and total actions games (Call Of Duty and so on)... I was desperate for a new game to tide me over and bought it - have to say I'm more than happy! It's crazily addictive and totally awesome! Dave

I've been using Yokohama Parada Spec II Couldn't fault them to be honest. Dave

I always order my parts from either: http://www.starletgtturbo.co.uk/ or http://www.toytuning.co.uk/ I just ordered a full set of brakes from Dave Burwash (starletgtturbo.co.uk) - they arrived very quickly, and the price was great Give him a bell, he's a top bloke Dave

Well, my vote goes to midnight purple: or Honda pirate black: Dave

0.65 bar in high afaik Dave