D3N0

Ohh baby... yes please. I'll be there in the glanza.

Why are you breaking it after 1000 miles of use??? Seriously?

Any particular reason.... Ive done the same, but after the first kid comes to your door talking crap. Then asking for a test drive etc.... I get put off. I dont think I could part either to be honest.

I'm under the dash at the moment.... What does the abs ecu look like? Im looking to have the traction control and launch control hooked up tonight. A pic would help... cheers bud.

A bit dirty and needs a clean, but hey...

Free Free would be nice.

Evening all... Has anyone got this connector laying around that they could send to me. Its the one that turns the reverse light on when you select reverse. D3N0

Your mattress must be (comfy) loaded

If it's on the 26th of this month then I might pop down in the glanza. Hopefully Ky should be able to make it I his 4paw; I'll drop him a text.

When you go custom loom you have the choice of where some sensor's can go at the same time creating a cleaner bay than oem. Im running an life racing F88; my custom loom has a big split connector on it just after runs into the cabin. A separate harness was made for the ecu so that at the end of the day when the glanza gets tucked away.... the ecu is removed like a quick release. Not only that but I have 2 other harnesses that plug into my loom that fit other ecus like haltech, dta & motec. At the same time you want to make sure your loom is future proof for items you might get like an ecu & performance monitoring system. Your standalone ecu should alone you to control boost through a module. Sell boost controller, because the ecu controls boost better. If you were to get a a custom loom made it would have to be from someone that had done it before with quality being the key. You don't want shit components used on your loom that will break or or aren't all weather resistant. You want all connectors to be fresh. Me personally, I'd pay up to a grand for a custom loom made including an install; making sure everything works as it should do. You could go cheaper for a couple hundred and reuse connectors from your old loom and a provided unterminated ecu harness. You could do what some people I've seen do that use the oem loom and just cut the oem ecu off and splice into the standalone harness in the footwell.... Dr Botch method. Either way its gonna cost some money pal... but this is where reliability kicks in to your project. I know I haven't skimpt. My current loom with my old ecu... My current ecu/performance monitor... Its touch screen; your can select any and everything.

I've got the exact same vacuum manifold but in purple.... and you put it in the exact same place I put mine. Nice one... I'm using a Race-tech inlet manifold though. Might post up pics later.

Lol

Exactly my point.... You know what I'll put it in the simplest way I can think off... You and girlfriend been together for 3-4years, she does everything right to keep you happy. So you then decide I found the one and agree to get married. You aint got the best job in the world, so you work, beg and borrow so that your wife to be has the best wedding day ever. So you get £30,000 together and you blow it all on the wedding day except £1. Damn it... £1 remaining and you forgot to buy the most important thing.... the wedding ring.... the thing that she will look at and remember why she puts up with your ass. But hay no bother.... you got out an buy a pack of haribos and use the chewy ring from the packet. That chewy haribo ring is your ecu. That wife to be is your beloved Ep. Decide better what to do with your money whether it's £30,000 or £10,000 for a whole build. D3N0

No Phil Not you at all, and following on from what you said about bad tuners... the piggy pack ecu covers them up. Well as best as they can... lol

Ohh yeah remember now.... Some people rightfully claim they have 300, 350, 400bhp, etc. Which is great on a foot to the floor power run.... what about the rest of the more import 90-95% tuning that still remains to be done. Most of you are driving around unaware at how badly your car has been tuned yet making "big power". Same has happened to me especially when running piggy packs ecus. On the day of tune the car will be running great... then next month not running right, or first thing in the morning won't start, or while its raining it cuts out occasionally, or ..... I can go on and on. What I'm trying to say is doing once and do it right....GO STANDALONE!!! It's not even that expensive to do so like maybe once before, and I'll bet you any money that: 1. You'll potentially save money 2. That you won't regret D3N0.... Peace out!¡!

Honestly cant be bothered to quote the post.... but seriously. Like Adam among others has said and tried to explain.... if you've spent your good money on a forged engine, a decent turbo and you want your car to be running sweet. The ecu is the most important item on a tuning list of mods end of. Why the hell would you even consider an apexi, greddy or any other of them pants out dated expensively cheep shits and put them in your car. Its like these so-called high powered starlets that you see up for sale. One look at the spec list can quickly tell you were they might be having problems. Don't get me wrong, you can get those ecus to work... but it would be a struggle. You get what you pay for. And before a noob memeber replies.... ive had, used and played with several ecus on my glanza.... I'll list them all... 1. Greddy emanage blue 2. Greddy emanage ultimate 3. HKS Fcon V Pro 4. Haltech PS1000 5. Syvecs (Life racing) F88R (current ecu) I can tell you now, if I was to do it all again I would never had put ecu 1,2, or 3 on my car. Until you realise how much a decent standalone ecu can extract every ounce of performance from the mods that you have made then you my friend will be running around like everyone else on half-baked tuning setups. It truly sickens me to read this over and over again; I am by no means having ago at you pal. When when you've been around the scene for the last 8 plus years...etc. Can't remember what else I was gonna say now....

As title says... need a fuel pressure regulator ASAP. Can pick up to night or any time over the weekend. Need it in my hands before Sunday night. Willing to collect from anywhere in London and close surrounding areas. Cash waiting must be Sard; new or used.

Sounds like the car had asthma that day.

I appreciate your comment mate, but the oem ecu went in the bin along time ago.... followed shortly by the oem loom. Either way will have a tinker with it this weekend, I may just decide to just splice into the abs sensor wires.

I'm liking the yaris 3-Pin idea definitely. But that wouldn't work with our dash clocks though. Im using the JT-Innovation Toucan display unit, but where it sits in the car I I wouldn't want to use it to guage my vehicle speed. I see what your saying about tapping into the existing wires, but which ever way you look at it..... its still botch. Preferably you'd want to leave that alone really.... safety device etc.

Definitely an option for driven wheel speed. Only thing... I'll probably have to replace the dash with an electronic one... maybe a SARD stack display. But even on dash replacements we don't really have an option like other European cars.

That's what I'm currently doing, but wanted to see how others have done it. Where did you mount the sensor because I know there's only one hole for a abs sensor. Don't really want to attempt drill through cast iron to made another one. However I do mine.... I'll share some pics.

Ok so were taking wheel speed sensors here, I'd like to know how other's have gone about picking up their wheel speeds for devices in which use them for such toys like launch control (not the mickey mouse kind) and traction control. And before someone jumps up and says use the abs sensors from the front and back hubs. I would like to retain the abs or at least not interfere with the abs system. In other words is anyone else running two abs/wheels speed sensors per hub or corner. I'd just like to see how others have gone about this task. Driven wheel speed is taken obviously from the front and un-driven from the back. Also has anyone tried taking the driven wheel speeds from the gearbox through a sensor. Any shared info would be great.

Items sold... Others still available. Will post up better pics of greddy e01 boost controller. I believe I still have the original box, screen stand and booklets in a box somewhere. I'll update later today.