SooperD

I had a friend of a friend do it in his lockup and he got me to drill a new hole in it as obviously the bolt holes didnt line up.. He seemed to think it would be ok tho.. Id try and get under to have a look but this snow has fooked that idea up.. Thanks again tho buddy

Ahh Shite .. Cheers for the heads up Iddy.. Any "quick fix" as i am skint and dont fancy splashing out getting someone to remove the box.. Will the LSD plate be good enough and protect the box ?

Ive just replaced my fooked OEM LSD box with a standard gearbox.. The plate that covers the bottom part of the gearbox from mud (ive no idea what its called, Sandwich plate?) is different.. Ive put a new hole in the old 1 and put it on but would like to replace it with the correct 1.. If anyone has 1 of these going spare it would be appreciated Cheers

I know.. I will try my best... Was hard work in recent times with working shifts but have a new job so my weekends are free .. Any tips on how to fix a small crack in the gearbox without having to get it stripped off again ? lol.

Its been a while so i thought id post a little update.. The cars been off the road since Early December due to the gearbox dying.. Just had it replaced yesterday with a brand new clutch. Updates are: Recaro rear bench 98 Rear clusters JAM ECU New Grooved discs and greenstuff pads Brand new clutch HKS SSQV BOV I had an OEM LSD box but because the box fubar'd its now in the garage. Will be selling it off aswell as the driveshafts and mount for it.. Also have a decent clutch for sale with around half life left if anyone needs a cheap replacement for the time being. Got some BRIDE material that i need to get onto the doorcards.. Does anyone know anywhere I could get this done ? Hoping to get the wheels refurbed in a month or so too.. Just cant decide wether to keep it or upgrade to a different car.. Decisions :/

Just spent a fortune having a new clutch and gearbox and driveshafts put in only for the guy to spot a crack in the 5th gear housing (passenger side end of the box). Its leaking a little bit of oil.. Are there any ways to repair this without having the box taken off AGAIN . Cheers.

Recently had my box and shafts changed.. Guy just used a small wedge between shaft and gearbox and out they popped.. Easier than fiddling with the green cups IMO.

Ive just swapped out my shagged OEM lsd box for a standard box.. So if you need driveshafts or mounts or even the box i have them.. Mount needs a new bush but the driveshafts are in good condition.. Never had any problems with them. Gearbox is fubar'd tho.. Wont stay in 2nd and sounds like a bag of bolts.. If it wasnt like the artic circle out there id get some pics up in the for sale thread as i need cash desperately after spending almost £600 on parts lol.. Ive not been able to drive my car without the LSD now because of the snow so i cant tell if there are any massive differences..

Can vouch for these ECU's.. Running 1 myself and it totally transforms the car.. Even if you have just basic mods.. I may put mine up for sale in February depending on if i get a Blitz one ive spotted going uber cheap

Thanks guys.. The mechanic just took it up and down the road not actually on the ramp. Ive read the 1 drive shaft is different and also maybe a different rear mount ? Any more info is appreciated

I took the car to a local garage today, 1 of the mechanics drove it and said it was the diff. Symptoms i have are just a grinding noise while freewheeling in gear (can be heard while driving but is more noticable without giving it revs) Also with the engine on and at standstill (out of gear) you can here a kind of quiet grinding/rubbing noise which almost goes away when the clutch is depressed. I was hoping it was only the thrust bearing but i have no knowledge of what a dying LSD sounds like. Could someone give me pointers of how to tell if it is the actual LSD dying or the clutch or the gearbox itself ? I was that devastated by the news i put the car up for sale but I may have a non LSD box to put in it if the actual LSD is on its way out. Could someone also please tell me what is envolved with changing an OEM LSD box to a normal OEM box and what parts i would need. Also is anyone selling any of these parts ? Thanks all.

Cheers for the kind words Jeebus James my man.. You could well be my saviour !! Thanks for the heads up Zeb... I knew the driveshafts were different but not about the rest Could a Mod please close this thread ? Burny has saved the day... It was an impulse sale as i was devastated that it was the gearbox and not the clutch and thought i was gonna have to spend big bucks to get it fixed..

Item Condition: Good overall but diff is on its way out and i have very little funds available to get a new gearbox. Price & Conditions: Circa £2500 as it is - May consider PX as i need a car for work until i get the company car next year. Item Description: Ive owned the car since it was imported (28/8/2008) And it has flown every MOT since. (failed once on rear brake pads) It still drives and starts perfectly apart from the grinding noise coming from the Diff. It has 128,000 approx on it (going up daily as its in use) was converted to miles at 110,000km approx ( got caught for speeding doing 38 in a 30 so bought a converter to avoid any discrepencies when trying to guess what 30mph was in kmh). Few scratches, stonechips and marks as expected for a 16 year old car but overall paintwork is good. Spoiler has a mark on it from where some kid decided to hit it with a metal bar, breaking the brake light in the process. Not had any heavy modifications but the list is as follows; 16" Rota grids in gold with polished lip (Very little kerbing at all, only problem is the lacquer on the polished part has flaked so ideally could do with a refurb - can get pics) JAM ECU Full 2/12" S/Steel exhaust system with can style backbox and 3" round tailpipe Blitz SUS induction kit TEIN type HA coilovers HKS SSQV BOV TRD quickshift NGK iridium plugs HID conversion 98 Spec rear clusters OEM Recaro rear bench Bride bucket seat and rail for driver side Indiglo dials Blitz Stepping motor Boost gauge with box for installing other blitz gauges (Oil temp etc) Factory OEM LSD in gearbox ABS CLIMATE CONTROL and A/C Pioneer AVIC X1R Sat nav and DVD player (If asking price met will leave this in) MOT up end of October and TAX up soon but will be putting 6months on it next week. Never been on a track or hammered. Im 30 this year so not been ragging it as im an old fart. I have original airbox in the garage and almost brand new set of Tein C spanners for the coilovers. I really dont want to sell this but i dont want to run it into the ground either. Plus im hoping to get a company car soon so if someone had a couple of hundred quid spare to get a new gearbox and maybe even recon the diff it has it would be a perfect car for someone. Down as a 1.3 on the logbook (Always insured as a Glanza Turbo to avoid complications) I have all import paperwork and all previous MOT's (Even have the auction sheet from Japan) Thats about as much as i can think of at the minute, as i said i really really dont want to sell but im kinda being forced to as i just cant afford to splash out and get a new gearbox and get it fitted etc. And then it might just be sat around and only driven on weekends. Pictures: MORE PICTURES AVAILABLE ON REQUEST Location: S.Wales UK Contact Details: Text me first 07743082100 or PM here Postage & Packaging / Delivery: Cash on collection - No test pilots and no test drives without proof of Fully comp insurance.

Any idea of the condition mate ? my gearbox is on its way.. Diff is shot. May be interested if its good working order.

lol.. I like chatter but when i had it all blocked and no DV the car felt slow between quick gear changes.. May have to stick with the chatter tho as the car feels much slower since the BOV change . So will a leak on the vac make my idle higher/lower ? Im certain that the idle now is where it should idle - between 7-800 ? But obviously as i said i have less boost. With old DV it was sitting around 1100rpm but boost was where it should be (small increase over stock due to removal of solenoid). I am right in thinking .8 is stock boost right ? Pissing it down outside right now but if it breaks ill get it all plugged and see if there is any difference when running no DV. hopefully there will be a difference and ill have narrowed the problem down to the SSQV.

Thanks for the input so far guys.. Even if it were fake how would it change my cars idle ? Thats probably the strangest problem i have found.. I cant understand how or why it would make the idle change. Ive noticed that it also only boosts to .6bar in 1st now. Didnt really pay attention of 1st gear boosting before the change. If i get chance i may run without the DV just to see if there is any difference. @ Matt - You changed the vac pipes etc or still running with them t'eed ? Wierd how its just chatter.. If you cant get it to dump and i cant find a fix for the reduced boost maybe we should swap back LOL

I recently swapped out my blitz adjustable bov for the HKS below.. When running the Blitz BOV it worked fine and as i said before i had it set to chatter on low boost and dump on higher boost. Now i have the SSQV installed there seems to be some sort of change. Ill start with the first thing i noticed.. My idle used to be above 1000rpm but is now between 600-800rpm. All vac pipes are reinforced and hard, no air leaking. Obviously it was idling high before but i have no idea why changing the bov would change the idle :/ I also have a blitz DC boost gauge which tells me the peak boost i have reached (since reset of the peak) and with the Blitz BOV it peaked at .95 bar. Now it maxes at .8bar. Never goes any higher. Also the car seems a little slower since the change of DV. Probably because its now only boosting to .8bar. The only things that are different is the setup of the BOV and the BOV itself. Below is a pic of how i have it setup. (Yes it is a bodge lol) Yes i know theres a lot of pipework to the actual BOV and this probably doesnt help. Any suggestions on what i need to go from the intake to the BOV ? the HKS adapter plate is much bigger diameter than my previous blitz, thats why the bodge work with the piping. Just cant understand how changing the bov and a bit of pipe work changed the car so much. Any help much appreciated.

i bought some cheap blue hose from halfords... Far too soft for vac pipes so id stay away from the cheap stuff. TBH i dont really know what to suggest. Get the same size as you have (Internal diameter obviously) outside diameter is just your preference. All the vac pipes i use are reinforced so that any vacuum wont collapse the pipe on itself. The tougher the better. Samco probably do vac pipes but then you have to pay for the brand name so wont be cheap.

LOL.. fitted perfectly over the hole . Yea i was thinking that its maybe because of the long distance from the intake the actual BOV is now ive had to relocate it. The blitz had the correct size adapter to fit directly onto the existing pipe on the intake whereas the SSQV had a larger diameter adapter plate so needed to use an old rad hose.. Any suggestions on how to adapt to the larger size but keep it close to the intake and reduce the amount of pipework ?

Sorry to drag this topic back up.. I have a problem of my own now.. When running the Blitz BOV it worked fine and as i said before i had it set to chatter on low boost and dump on higher boost. Now i have the SSQV installed there seems to be some sort of change. Ill start with the first thing i noticed.. My idle used to be above 1000rpm but is now between 600-800rpm. All vac pipes are reinforced and hard, no air leaking. I also have a blitz DC boost gauge which tells me the peak boost i have reached (since reset of the peak) and with the Blitz BOV it peaked at .95 bar. Now it maxes at .8bar. Never goes any higher. Also the car seems a little slower since the change of DV. Probably because its now only boosting to .8bar. The only things that are different is the setup of the BOV and the BOV itself. Below is a pic of how i have it setup. (Yes it is a bodge lol)

If i adjusted it all the way out i would elimnate chatter on it completely so i dont think the spring inside this 1 is too stiff..Im sure its the vac pipe being tee'd that does it..

How you get on matt ? Sorted ?

I changed my 96 specs to a 98 spec cluster but used the existing bulb holder.. think its dual filament bulbs in the top and normal in the bottom.. Tops are dim until you press the brake and then light up nice and bright . My 98 spec clusters came with the bulb holders but are different to the older 96 spec bulb holders so i didnt need to mod them to get this effect... Maybe if you can get hold of the older version bulb holders it would be easier than rewiriing the 98's .. Cant remember if they are unpluggable or not tho so may require some wiring after all.. Ala my pic <<<< Ive used the right hand reversing light near the number plate as my Rear fog.. Just painted a bulb with red paint.. Passes the MOT fine ..

Love the Bride GIAS low max.. Some cheap copies on ebay a few months ago.. Well i say cheap £700 each haha..

Another thing you could try matt is take the BOV apart.. Its a piece of piss.. just be careful when you do so u dont lose the spring. (its big so will b hard to lose but just incase ) you will be left with a brass part which is what the pressure slides up and down inside the valve.. Make sure that slides freely, even put some wd40 in if you think it might help.. If it moves freely (which it should) then the BOV is fine.. I packed it well but u never know if it got banged about on its way to u etc.. Just do it as a precaution and for piece of mind.. like i said it is 100% working.. I would put my life on that statement.. It just seems the blitz 1's are a bit like women.. Need everything to be perfect