TimD

You have to have a certain level of paid membership with Photobucket to post photos on forums now. Your options are to pay them, or move your photos somewhere else.

Thanks! I'm really enjoying the process

Part 1. http://speed.academy/tim-darracott-toyota-starlet-race-car-build-part1/ Part 2. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-race-car-build-part-2-adding-lightness-safety/ Part 3. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-ep82-racecar-build-part-3/ Part 4. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-racecar-build-part-4/ Part 5. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-racecar-build-part-5-first-track-test/ Still updating this thing

Stress from high frequency vibration, maybe? Hard to tell really, mine has a couple of small braces from flange to tube, has yours?

There isn't a short answer to the FB vs Forum battle. In my mind there has to be some form of integration with a particular FB Group, so when a person posts a question on FB it is posted to a forum and vice versa. A reply to the FB post adds a reply to the forum, a reply on the forum adds a comment to the FB post. I'm not even sure that's technically possible? I HATE Facebook as a platform for car discussion, it just doesn't work. Good luck finding a post you made a couple of years ago, let alone someone elses, for example. People no longer retain information, they just ask the sam

Worth checking. I've never done that when tightening mine up, but can understand the theory behind why you might need to. Ultimately, I wouldn't buy anything until you can pinpoint exactly what is broken, or not right. By the time you've loosened the bottom bolts off to adjust the shock you might as well remove the whole thing and have a proper look at it. It should be easy to spot if it's broken by comparing it to the shock and spring on the other side of the car.

Could be the top mount, could be the whole shock. Sounds like the spring is binding as you're turning the wheel, it needs properly inspecting, and the only way to do that is to remove the parts.

This is a statement I will never understand. Keep things simple and use the car, a car with half the horsepower that actually sees the track, is still 100% faster than one that sits in a shed being built to be different.

GT25R? http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-001 That page seems to suggest around 240hp which is as near as damnit what you're looking for. I have gone TF035 on mine, which will give me about 200hp I'm hoping. Did 170 on 7psi of boost and standard management, so with more boost and a proper map I can't see it being too difficult to get the figure I'd like. My car is a track car, it is never used on the road, and even at 160hp there wasn't much on track that came past.

Still here collecting dust, if anyone is interested. Cheers

The idea of them is to force air through the radiator rather than around it. I have one, it's been sat on the shelf for ages. I intend to use it as a base for boxing in my civic radiator to improve flow through it. Air will take the path of least resistance, quite often that is around the radiator. I'd be surprised if they made a noticeable difference just on their own.

Good question, I'm sure on that one! I've removed my oil cooler setup for the time being with a plan to rethink the setup before the car gets used properly on track, you're a few months early for me to help right now. Again, speak with one of the two companies mentioned and see what they suggest you do.

Buy a branded one, rather than a cheap copy. Doesn't have to be SARD. You'll wish you spent the extra £50 when the crappy Chinese thing fails and costs you an engine.

I hadn't thought of that. I didn't run a thermostat with mine, but I'd recommend you do. I really struggled to get oil temperature in my car without one. Is there a reason you need to go for a remote setup? Modifying the PAS bracket is simple enough. If you need to go remote, I'd speak with either Think Automotive, or MLR (eBay) and they'll get you setup with the right bits.

Adapter clears the PAS bracket, my mocal one does anyway. As for the rest, it's pretty simple plumbing really. The remote filter and thermostat will normally have arrows for direction.

Thanks, they aren't cheap, are they!?

I reckon you could wire a pot to the signal wire and make it adjustable. The Saxo/106 pumps are dumb, they're either on or they aren't. Do you have any details part numbers, etc of the MR2 pump?

Depends why you're doing it? I wanted to move to a single auxiliary belt to run a crank position sensor, it also cleared up that side of the engine bay to fit a proper air box behind the drivers side headlight. If you're doing it for the sake of doing it, or, because track car, there's probably not much point. The pump is heavier, and it'll more than likely sit further forward than the original, which isn't ideal either. It's easy enough to fit, I think it took me an afternoon.

Energise the relay through a switch, simple enough. My experience of hydraulic assisted power steering racks, without any hydraulic assist would suggest that the steering will be far too heavy without it, but we shall see. Might be fine for a rip up and down the bypass once every now and again, but when you're on track for 30 or 40 minutes at a time, the last thing you need is physical fatigue through lack of power steering. Especially when you have a plated diff fighting your inputs.

I have this fitted to mine, if you have a look at my build thread you'll see some details. Can't comment on steering feel as I have yet to try it. The thing needs to be run through a relay, and not directly through a switch!

Still interested in the back box, what type of exhaust is it fitted to?

I need the gauge as well, not just the sensor.

Can be either water or oil, doesn't matter. Not advance series either. Cheers

I'm 32, almost 33. Had my first GT when I was 19, bought my current one 4 years ago. Asking the same question over and over. Because, "the fuck is a search function anyway".

Any M6 bolt should do the trick. No chance of it falling out.