TimD

Thanks.

Still working on this thing, in the middle of a complete re-wire. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_LJlBzmQLI

Hi, In the planning stages of a complete re-wire of my car, and one thing I'm a little unsure of is the charge circuit. I need to double check my connector, but according to diagrams online, the multi-plug should have 3 connections, we then have a ring terminal to the battery. Now, I'm aware that I need a to connect 1 of the connections from the multiplug, and the ring terminal to the battery via a fuse. But that leaves two connections, one appears to be an exciter which sends 12v to the alternator when the ignition is switched on, the other a ground for the dash-lig

I have an RW Developments baffle in mine, but would like to move to a trap door style one. Some of the quotes I've had in the past for that sort of work are more expensive than fitting an accusump!! I'm going to have a proper look again soon, hopefully I can find someone reasonable.

Brill, cheers! I've been playing with the ECU on my workbench over the last couple of weeks, and have working prototype of a display for it. Going to start working on the wiring for the car this weekend, and hopefully have the ECU mostly installed before the year is out. Some details in a build thread on the DTA forum. http://www.dtaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1400 Here's a clip of my dash running on CAN data from the ECU, I even simulated a running engine with a second micro controller. So the ECU is seeing a crank signal which is allowing me to play

Part 6: http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-racecar-build-part5/ It is part 6, not sure what happened with the title there, is live.

Unrelated, but who mapped your car in the end? As for boost control with the ME221, looks like you can use it, it would need mapping in, but whoever did your initial map would be able to help you with that. ME also offer a solenoid to buy which is compatible with their ECU's https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/boostcontrolkit.html Although most 3 port solenoids should work, so if you already have one it would be worth trying that before investing in a new one.

I'm about to make a wiring loom for my standalone ECU, and wondered if anyone had any ideas what terminals I need to buy for some of the factory plugs. Coil packs, distributor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, etc. I've found some replacement plugs that come with terminals, but I already have the plugs, so it's just the terminals I'm after. I also stumbled across these (https://www.efihardware.com/products/2558/Toyota-EFI-Pin-Kit-1) but Australia based, and the shipping is daft. Ta.

Working here, but only after I clicked the Mark Site Read link.

If you mark site as read, then obviously wait for something new to show up, the unread content stuff works again.

Unread Content doesn't seem to be working anymore? Error code: EX4096

Picked up an S80 today, some chap had one for sale locally. You have to know what you're doing with mapping, but essentially, yes you can map them with a laptop.

[oldman] Ah jeez.. This is a forum, not Facebook. Take the time to write a response, not click a like. [/oldman]

You'd get by with a fuel pressure regulator I suspect. Either pay for someone to check your AFR's, or buy a wideband and do it yourself? Ideally you'd get some form of aftermarket ECU or Piggyback. I think there is a group by on the plug and play ME221 ECU currently. Hard to beat that deal really.

Thanks Shaun, and will do. I've just had confirmation that the S40 will not run the engine in the way I'd like, and I'll need to move up to the S60. For those who are not interested in doing things like coil on plug then the S40 will work once you've fitted an external trigger, but that's not really the avenue I want to go down. For those who are interested, I'll be doing a full build on how I install the S60 into the car, including loom design, etc.

Hi, Was hoping to buy an S40 Pro ECU this week to fit to my car, and using standard triggering run semi-sequential injection as well as wasted spark ignition. But I don't think the S40 will support that, as it only has a single "crankshaft input". Can anyone confirm that, I'm beginning to think I'll need to save a little longer and get the S60. http://www.dtafast.co.uk/dta_products/s40pro-ecu/ Cheers Tim PS. If anyone has any technical details on how the standard 24 tooth trigger wheels work in terms of Cam and Crank triggering, and would like to share them, please

It would appear that turbo lag is the requirement?

My Kill switch is wired to the positive side of the battery. I have a small junction box in the engine bay where I join the 12v from the switch to the original 12v lines from the battery. I then have a single cable to one side of the switch, and another single cable from the switch to the battery which is tucked behind the passenger seat. You'll get the resistor in your FIA kit, that needs a good earth point so any left over voltage goes to ground rather than anywhere it really shouldn't. You'd only ever get that sort of problem if you were to kill the engine at high RPM's, but without

That's not low oil pressure.

That's not what I used, doesn't look like they have what I bought listed on their site. A friend of mine has a unit on the same industrial estate as them, so I popped in. Worth a phone call to them, it's just a flat sheet, can't remember how big it was, pretty big, almost too big to fit into my E39 touring!

Easy enough done, just draw around the original door cards and cut them out. I bought a big sheet of fiberglass backed carbon fibre from ABS Motorsport (http://www.absmotorsport.co.uk/)

Most are just normal pitch metric M6 bolts. You can by a little tool to measure pitch, be a couple of quid i suspect from eBay.

I'm on the look out for someone to help me produce an enclosure for a electronics project. A 5" TFT Dash Display, think Motec C125. Is that something you can possibly help me with?

I will shortly have a full DEFI-BF setup available, including the following: - Boost - Water Temp - Oil Temp - Oil Pressure - Control Unit - Spare Temp Sensor - 2 x gauge pods All fully working with date/time stamped video to prove. £400

Not sure where you are, but I have the front strut bar somewhere. You're welcome to it if you're local to Sheffield.