TimD

This is what happens when you import things from other countries. By all means, put it in the bin, but they'll come after you. Is it really worth the hassle for 30 euro? It's not unusual to be invoiced for duty and tax after the item has been delivered, it speeds up the delivery process.

It will. You cut a hole out of the door card for the handle, and mount the handle to the door as normal.

Yep, anything that could catch fire! A bolt in cage is different though, most of them are dash dodgers which makes things much easier.

Speak to Dean, sure he'll make you one up.

Don't faff about with old, really old plugin ECU's like JAM, etc. By the time you've paid the JDM tax on one of those, you might as well go for the ME221.

Checked to see if any of your vacuum hoses have popped off? Especially the one to the MAP sensor. If the car was running fine for a while without an adjustable fpr, and now isn't at all, it wont be a lack of fuel pressure I wouldn't have thought. Have you checked for fault codes on the ECU? http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/66490-ecu-diagnostic-codes/

Mine is a Custom Cages cage, installed by them. Plenty of other people capable of doing it, but the difference in price was negligible back then, might be different now? (http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-race-car-build-part-2-adding-lightness-safety/) A properly installed bolt in cage is more than adequate for what the majority of us would use the car for.

"Bolt In" cages are still going to require a certain amount of welding to ensure they don't punch through the floor in the event of a big crash. The floors on these cars are thin, really thin. They aren't even double skinned like some other Japanese cars are. So when you have a bolt in cage fitted by anyone who knows what they are doing, they will insist that some reinforcement plates are welded, it sure as shit wont pass any sort of scrutineering if it's just bolted through the floor. If you have a Glanza I would speak with Tegiwa, they can source Safety Devices roll cages, and i'd go for

Interested in the backbox, can you take some photos and give me some more info.

These are the ones I have fitted

Thanks. A friend of mine had some laying around, but if you search for accusump brackets you should be able to find them quite easily.

That'll likely be a little too early for me, I've a couple of weeks off the car now. It is, I separated it from the washer bottle and relocated it to the opposite side of the engine bay. The catch can is vented underneath

Today would be the last day I get to work on the car for a few weeks, and as such I was keen to have a proper go at it. Get as much done as possible, so that I could speak with a local tuner to have him check it over on his rolling road before booking a day at Blyton Park or similar for a proper shake down. Since fitting the new power steering pump I couldn't get my bumper to fit properly without it contacting the pump. It looked like an easy fix, so I attacked it with a dremel until I gained enough clearance to replace the mesh and fit the bumper without it contacting the pump. This wo

With the power steering now all plumbed and wired in, the only thing getting in the way of me actually being able to drive the car was the radiator. If you remember earlier I commented that the lower outlet required moving. I found someone local to help me with that, pretty straight forward if you can wield a tig torch with some confidence. I also picked up a set of JD Tuning brackets to mount the new radiator. Fitting them up would be really straight forward as they made use of all pre existing holes, someone had done their homework. At this point a friend had popped across to

The car would then sit for a few weeks whilst I gathered parts to fit a Peugeot 106/Citroen Saxo power steering pump to replace the standard belt driven unit. The parts required are as follows: - 2 x M16 x 1.5 Power Steering to -6 Fittings - 2 x 90 degree -6 fittngs - 3m of -6 nylon braided hose - 3m of 10mm nylon braided hose + jubilee clips - 70 amp relay - 50 amp fuse - Wiring to suit It's a fairly straight forward process really, the most difficult part was finding somewhere to mount the pump, and something to mount the pump with. I decided a good spot would be up inside the front

I began with some pre flight checks, plugs out, turn it over to build oil pressure, so far so good. Plugs in, turn the key and it would fire immediately woohoo, run for 5 seconds and cut out. Not so good, and then it refused to start again. I tried lots of different things, check for spark, check for fuel, old spark plugs in, etc, etc. Everything looked as though it should start, we then began to question the fuel. I checked to see if the cam belt had jumped, and eventually whipped the cam cover off to check to see if the cams were in time, this is where I noticed something odd. Milky

So, let's try and catch up with this thing, a lot has happened since the last time I updated my build thread, some good, some bad. D-Day had arrived, but first I needed to fit a few things before actually turning the key. The first was an oil return for the turbo, which doesn't fit great, but would do the job for now. I'll replace this before the car is used in anger, you can see it's bulged ever so slightly where it connects to the turbo, far from ideal. The issue is that the O.D of the sump connection is 19mm, the turbo is just 16mm, and finding an oil hose that fits this perfectly pr

Another option is to just fit a known working CT9 turbo and get the car nice. Take it back to standard, fix all the other little bits. Then when you're happy with it, look at increasing power some? Food for thought

Any powerflow dealer/exhaust specialist or similar will be able to sort the exhaust for you. Probably fit some new hangers, or whatever, should be very straight forward for them. Another option is a TF035 turbo, it's the TD04's little brother. Similar sized hot side to a CT9 but a larger cold side should see performance increases over the CT9. My car ran a hybrid CT9 up until recently, and it was more than adequate.

Cheers guys. Be sure to give them a like on Facebook, just in case I forget to post here. https://www.facebook.com/gofastwithclass/

I've started writing for http://speed.academy First of all I'll be recapping the build of my car, and from there I'm hoping to try and feature some other cars, and motorsport related events. Part 1. http://speed.academy/tim-darracott-toyota-starlet-race-car-build-part1/ Part 2. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-race-car-build-part-2-adding-lightness-safety/ Part 3. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-ep82-racecar-build-part-3/ Part 4. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-racecar-build-part-4/ Part 5. http://speed.academy/toyota-starlet-racecar-build-part-

I bet it did!! Took me long enough to do one layer, never mind two!

Sure I've shared this link before for you https://www.toyota-forum.de/attachments/ep82-starlet-wiring-and-connectors-pdf.8326 Most, if not all of the above can be identified using that PDF. It's really useful. You'll also want to remove all of that after market sound deadening as well, that stuff is really heavy. Then you can remove the standard stuff that's more than likely underneath that.

Speak to Jeremy Young on facebook