TimD

Here's the work I had carried out I'm away on holiday for a couple of weeks on Saturday so I'm going to struggle to pull a main cap and get a photo, but I will do when I return. The crank was measured as Standard/STD

I really do appreciate your input Colin, and value your opinion, and will eat all the humble pie I can find if I'm wrong on this. But I paid a known engineer to measure and supply me with bearings, he's done that, to a level I've no way of matching, with tools I doubt you can buy for less than my entire bill. I'm fairly confident that he's supplied me correct bearings, we wont know for certain for a while yet, but I'll be sure to report back, good or bad. This is a huge learning curve for me, and I'm open to failure. I could have just asked him to build the entire thing for me, but I wanted

Just to confirm the crank was measured as standard size. No work was carried out on it, it was removed from the engine for peace of mind. Not because damage occurred.

Explain why this is a disaster waiting to happen? I have an invoice stating they have measured the crank, I have spoken with the engineer on the phone a few times and he's a friend of a friend. I doubt very much he's out to ruin my engine..

I go on a two week holiday this coming Saturday (YES!), but this means that unless I get the money before close of business Friday I wont be able to sell this until the 1st of November when I return.

Part of the engineering work I had done at the start of the year was to measure the crank and supply bearings to fit so I'm fairly confident everything should be ok. I'm not setup with the correct tools for such precise measurement, I could plastigauge I guess.

Thanks for that Feel free to send me your best offer via PM

Yup!

I could shine a light through it to see, but couldn't get a photo. Plenty of assembly lube between the bearings and crank.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU_imT3UD6Y&feature=youtu.be Well it rotates pretty easily.

I'm actually going to attempt to fit the crank today. I've started by putting bearings into the caps, and my first question is whether or not there should be a small gap between the back of the bearing and the cap face? It's tiny, but there's a gap, so I want to be sure. Thanks

In my mind it isn't perfect, and when you're paying top price for something, you expect it to be. Sacha agreed, and that's where we find ourselves. This is a substantial saving over new, especially given the current exchange rate, so someone will get a bargain and have it on their doorstep within 48 hours of sending me the money.

WEPR Ram TD04 Manifold, Down pipe and Screamer Item Condition & Description: There were a couple of things I wasn't happy with when this arrived, I came to a deal with Sacha and this has sat on my office floor since! The issue I found was a lack of port matching between the runners and manifold to head flange. This I'm sure can be rectified with a die grinder and some time, you can see in the pictures below what I mean. Honestly, you could probably fit this and get cracking, but I'm a picky bugger so didn't. SOLD

Easy though, just bolt it in. Cut your losses, buy a EG/DC and K swap that, or just buy a DC5 and have done with it!

Zisco aren't exactly around the corner now, are they? Why not speak with Dean at RW?

They cleaned up really easily.

It's worthwhile taking some photos of your wastegate and sending them to tech@tialsport.com, they'll be able to confirm it's authenticity which will help with the sale. Good luck

They're OK, better than a road tyre. But once you've tried a AO48r, or a Kumho v70a, or Dunlop dz03g, then go back to a 888, you'll wonder what the hell you were thinking!

Thanks for the input chaps, I'll get on with cleaning the caps up this evening. Question 3 Next question is the order in which they need to be fitted, 3 seems straight forward enough, I can't quite make out from my picture when taking it to bits where 1 starts. I'm pretty certain it is 1 at the timing belt end, correct? That would certainly line up with the 5efe manual I have, but the 5efe caps look different to the 4efe ones. There might be some really dumb questions, but better to ask and get it right, than assume to mess it up.

Ok, next question. How do I clean it off..

Question 2 Is the above anything to worry about, or can I go ahead and install my bearings?

I've dropped coordsport an email to see if they know why it has broken.. http://www.ponycars.net/images/rx7/KAZZ.bmp I'm pretty certain that's the same thing

Where can I find the magical ball bearing which means I don't have to faff about with the 2 hidden bolts? I need to do the same as you, inspect my Kaaz diff!

I spoke with the Honed the people who have done a lot of work on Yings K24 EP82, they suggested there was far too much custom work involved to start a mass produced kit. There is a B18 Glanza on here, I forget the name of the company, but they'd probably be able to help. It's not something you can just do by throwing a bit of money at, as Socks will probably attest, it's a long process, and a very expensive one at that, especially if you're relying on a third party to carry out the work. Depending how far along your car is, and you're keen for something other than a 4e/5e, look

I use a laser thermometer thing to check tyre temps.