TimD

I have a 04600 on my shelf, what am I measuring.

No worries, driving quickly on track takes practice. I'd also highly recommend using a trailer, not worrying about how you're going to get the car home if breaks, or you go off the circuit makes track days much more fun. Plus it'll preserve the life of that gearbox! See about getting a decent sim racing setup at home, it's amazing what a difference that can make to your driving.

You need time in your car, and some tuition. Learn to use all of the track rather than driving down the middle of it, learn to carry speed rather than relying on power. A sequential gearbox automatically propels you into the Pro classes at Time Attack, look at time sheets from previous rounds, book track days, use Harry's Lap Timer, or buy a Racelogic Performance box and figure out how far off podium pace you are for your class.

I'd be checking your block is flat as well.

I never had much trouble with DC2's. Struggled to keep up with a ep3 civic cup car at Rockingham, not sure that would be the case if I had 200hp. I understand my car isn't like the majority of starlets on here, but to poo poo them completely on track is a little short sighted.

A couple of them, but they were being driven slowly. I wouldn't see which way a well driven M3, of any vintage went, they are very good cars!

Bleed kit, I'm sure the brakes will be fine once you've got them bled properly.

Bleed it properly, you'll come a cropper at the 'ring if there is ANY air in the system. Those kits will do an OK job for a car that's being used to potter about town, but if you are using the car properly they aren't up to the task.

Here's my 160hp EP82 keeping an R26 honest around Donington http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sb0jMqobO5I

The wire will be damaged somewhere and earthing, which will cause the light to come on and your turbo timer to stop working. If wired in correctly a turbo timer will only work when the handbrake is applied to stop someone jumping in and diving off with it. The wire looks crimped to me in the bottom picture just as it comes out of the carpet.

I had one for a few years, it got pinched and they blew it up, I suspect an over rev on down change as the engine was stock! It was fairly solid, but the rear arches had started to rust, as they all do. It had it's fair share of problems, but it was 20 years old when I bought it, so come to expect that. Wouldn't have another, but a properly cool car which even in standard guise went really well, come rain, snow or sunshine.

A cheap Glanza will be relatively cheap to fix, and unlikely to be rotten. A cheap Pulsar on the other hand..

oo00ff.. ^^ What this guy said, have a nasty one at the ring and cause damage to another vehicle and you're liable for the repair bill, both the track and the third party, lets hope they don't get injured whilst they're at it. I no longer go out for TF, I'll do a trackday out there, or hire something from Rent4Ring instead.

Don't just change the headgasket hoping it will solve the problem. Spend some time figuring out what it is first!

Wide Open Throttle Essentially, with your foot hard down on the accelerator as you crank it over. When I compression checked my car, I was told to do the following. - Engine cold, all plugs out, disconnect injectors - Screw tester into head - Crank at WOT until compression stopped increasing, or in my case, no compression was being registered at all - Rinse & repeat 3 more times.

Still here sat on my desk waiting to be shipped!!

Much want. So if I was to send you £5,440.50 of my hard earned, what would be delivered to me? Engine management aside, how much leg work is Joe Bloggs going to have to do to get this into their car and working. Does it come assembled?

Why would you introduce more metal into a cabin where it's occupants aren't properly strapped in to protective seats, or wearing proper gear? This one has been modified in such a way where is has weakened the main thing that is supposed to be protecting you. I dread to think what would happen to that weld which has been conveniently covered with a bit of padding should the car roll over. What if it shears? Where do you think the sharp end of the piece of metal tube will end up? More than likely in your, or your passengers head!! What if it crumples in such a way, that it impedes the exit

Is there anything more pointless than a 'show cage', I think not.

Has that fatigued and cracked due to vibration, or has something hit it?

My bill so far for rebuilding my standard engine is about £800, I still need a few things. Oh yeah, my engine still isn't assembled either. It's a pile of parts on our spare bedroom floor. The list of parts needed for an engine rebuild is endless. Full engine gasket set Oil pump Water pump if you haven't changed it Rings which will need gapping Might as well do valve stem seals and valve clearances whilst the engine is out New clutch and release bearing? Cam belt kit Plenty of oil New head bolts Bearings Seals Not sure what turbo you have, but if that's a bit of an unknown, whats 1

Willing to accept realistic offers on this..

Tempted to get these for my Cooper S.. hmm, local'ish too.

You'll likely struggle on anything but noisy days, and they are few and far between. I think I'd rather have peace of mind that I wasn't going to have any trouble, by fitting a proper exhaust, than spend the best part of £300 for 10 minutes of track time.

Nice little project is this.. Have you done away with all the factory systems then? Or do some remain for stuff like headlights, indicators, etc? I hope to do something similar with mine, except I don't need to worry too much about factory stuff given that it isn't a road car.