TimD

Compression test followed by a sniff test should identify any headgasket related issues.

How far down the exhaust is the sensor?

I have a plug and play EMB with 3 bar map and ep82 field harness. It has a map on it as well Not sure what your budget it is or if it'll fit but I'm looking for £350. Will do a for sale ad on Monday

Sorry, I meant includung ECU, or just ECU on its own?

Might have missed it, and searching for ECU or Management yields bugger all.. What you going to be using to run this? Haltech with flex??

What sort of price for fitting and map?

£350? ^^

If you're spending £160 on a well used one, you might as well spend £220 on something that's brand new and without doubt a real part!

Useful, what was the problem?

- Emanage Blue with Field Harness for EP82 and 3 Bar Map sensor with a map for a Tongs CT9 - Defi Link BF Gauge setup includes all sensors and wiring for Oil Pressure, Oil/Water Temp, Boost, with Link Controller. Any ideas on the above?

Plenty of people using them with success

It's not a fault, it's because the block and/or head weren't completely flat.

OEM Bolts are stretch bolts, you torque them up and then I think it's a 90 degree turn to stretch them, after that you leave them well alone.

Torque is what would kill these, they are meant to be pretty strong. Not sure how the internals differ from the kit used for the K20, but if you have a look on YouTube there's a K swapped MR2 with 900 'American' HP, so probably about 700 real world HP, the gearbox seems to handle it well. Perhaps if you're chasing dyno numbers the quaife isn't for you, and at that price point, I doubt very much we'll ever find out!

If you've gone to head studs, you're presumably running ARP stuff, so you can reuse them. If you're using OE head bolts, with an athena, then yes once they're in place then you leave them alone, they're stretch bolts after all. It's probably prudent to check that an ARP stud/bolt is properly torqued a short while after the initial torque. In an idea world you'd probably check them after a certain amount of running, but for the 4efe that would require removing cams. Bit of a minefield is this, and I'm sure there is some simple engine building science behind it. Anyway, interested to find out what happens when you get it built back up, hopefully all is well and you can enjoy the car some.

You aren't paying for just a gearset though, it's a proper sequential transmission, proper motorsport stuff.. I want one! badly! Pretty certain the price of £4650 + vat is your start point, from there you'll probably need to have it assembled, then I guess you'll need a shift mechanism, gear indicator. Then to use it properly you're going to need to have some decent management that can be programmed for flat shifts, and if it's really clever clutchless down changes with auto blip. Money isn't an object once you've decided to spend £7k on a gearbox for a car that's worth, at most, £4k? Even with the gearbox. You'd hope that there would be a market for used ones should you ever need to sell it, but I can't imagine it'll be easy to shift (so to speak). Still want one.. One day.

Sure, go for it. If it doesn't fit now, you're going to have to sort something.

Take some photos otherwise you're going to struggle to get any meaningful help!!! Some people can't help themselves.

That's something I didn't do ^^ and the engineer who did the work on my engine asked me the same question. Not sure if it would have made a difference in my case, but it's certainly something I wont forget to do this time around!

If you've got the head gasket might as well give it a go?! I would,and probably should have.

Try a specialist insurance broker like Flux, especially if your car is modified you'd might be surprised at the outcome.

Make sure your cabin is sealed.. There are a lot of holes in the floor and bulkhead that might not be sealed, either the rubber grommets were removed, and not replace or have just seen better days.

Have it routed back into the exhaust?

http://bfy.tw/5Lci

Speak with Think Automotive