TimD

It's a guessing game, ambient and track temps play a part. If it were me, I'd start on 26 at the front and 28 at the rear. They're 20 minute sessions at Trax, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Good to hear, you've probably said, but are you using ARP bolts?

Can't interest you in the one I have for sale? I'm pretty certain Ed @ Fusion mapped it originally. It has been remapped since, and the map is password protected but this is normal. Not sure what I have it for sale at on here, but it's yours for £200 including map sensor and field harness.

Athena engine still going strong?

Perhaps I'm not trying hard enough, but I'm yet to go beyond the limits of my chassis. I haven't driven a Honda on track to compare, but I've plenty of seat time in a friends R53 Mini Challenge car, there's not much between them. People are quick to rubbish ep*'s because they don't have IRS, probably helps the others, but it's not the be all and end all.

You're missing the point somewhat, VTEC isn't a replacement for a turbo, not sure how you can compare the two? But for a reliable, fairly modern engineered engine, you can't look past a K20. It will drive better than a 4e/5e with similar power mainly because you aren't waiting for a turbo to spool up, however quickly it does so. The chassis development I have in my car makes it a great package, it has flaws, much like any other FWD car, but it changes direction as well if not better than anything I've ever driven.

Lighter engine, reliable and importantly usable horsepower. You can keep your power figures, I'd rather be driving quickly around race tracks.

Would you be able to take photos or scan in fitting instructions? Ive got to put mine back together and I can't remember how it goes!! Thanks

Bump.

The plates can be re-ordered to more of a road biased setup. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5kzuNq9KfgQajYzbTRPREhkd2c/view?usp=sharing I suspect mine is setup as the last diagram, I'm going to reorder mine as part of my rebuild.

Seat will make a massive difference, I'd be looking at a cage next though things can get quite claustrophobic if the roof caves in and your still strapped upright in your seat!

Apart from the fact that you can't fit this to anything older than a 1998 car.

Interesting.. That link is a little screwy due to the spaces, here's the article.

As some of you may be aware, I'm rebuilding my 4efte for the first time, and whilst I have a general idea of what I'm doing, there are a few details I'm a little hazy on. Rather than start a new thread for every question I figure I'd keep it all in here, and adjust the Topic Title when a new question is asked. Hopefully it'll help others in similar situations in the future. Question 1 So my first question in this thread relates to how I clock the rings, I "think" I have found how to do it in the 5E manual I have: Here's the entire manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5kzuNq9KfgQUS1BVEZob0Q3UUk/view?usp=sharing Is it safe to assume for the most part that information relating to the 5E bottom end matches that of the 4E? If not, what should I be looking out for? Thanks

Do you have any links to where I could buy a rebuild kit for a TF035?

Answered my own question. The block is also stamped with corresponding numbers, in my case: Cyl 1: 2 Cyl 2: 1 Cyl 3: 1 Cyl 4: 1

I'm finally getting around to putting my engine back together, when inspecting the pistons I've noticed they all have a B stamped on them. But, 3 have the number 1 stamped, and one has a number 2. Any ideas what they mean?

K20 it, I really want to K20 mine. Need to find someone to make it fit.

You need to do some proper investigation as to what's causing it!! Do a compression test first and foremost, don't just replace piston rings for the sake of it. Did the turbo look like it had failed, did you even check? What's the inside of your boost pipes looking like, there could be oil in them? There are so many things it could be.

I found it a real struggle to get the alternator belt tight enough, had to have a friend push down on it whilst I tightened it up.

Will you be at Croft in this on the 18th?

Still going strong?

Almost straight on at Adenauer Forst, almost.

If you've got deep pockets you can get Project Mu pads for these as well.!

Interesting, thanks for taking the time to reply. I don't know what route to go down, or whether or stay standard rods and pistons or whilst it's already in bits go forged. The car is a track car, it is never driven on the road, not even to and from events. Once rebuilt it'll have a TF035 turbo fitted, and will run relatively low boost of around 15 psi.