davehart

I didn't see one Starlet go down the strip or anywhere near the pit area all day. My mate in his silver Glanza was in the main car park and all I spotted were two GT's and a white Glanza. There was a Corsa with Subaru running gear in doing 11.5's down the strip that arse rapped a black MR2 we thought we have it.

If you've tried winding the piston back in and it won't budge its more than likely seized. I've had to replace both mine at the rear due to that very problem.

I spotted the TOMS one, bit pricey though for me. Nice rare bit of kit.

What's everyone got out there?

Suits.

The rattle will be the rear section either knocking on the rear beam or the backbox knocking on the bumper. Pretty much every EP82 Japspeed system does it, mine does. Japspeed...pretty shit I've found in the past.

My Meister R is is as follows: 76cm Width / 47cm deep and 22cm height.

There is a little plug on the right hand side of the engine bay that used to plug into the air con lines from the bulk head. Bridge those two wires on the plug and thats it.

Its a dash off job I'm afraid I've recently done mine as it was cracked at the top. Pretty easy job to be honest, the challenge is remembering where everything goes when you put it back together Guide for it here: :: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?34134-Heater-Matrix-Dash-Removal-Guide-*

There should be a section that runs out of the loom that goes to the fuse box which has the positive terminal on and the diagnostic box.

The positive battery terminal should be part of the main loom. Have they cut the end off and just left the wire without a terminal on the end anywhere?

That is the power and ground for the Alternator.

Pretty simple rule I'd say....if your selling something take a picture of it, the buyer might just want to see what he's parting cash with

Just to wrap this up if anyone has the same error code. The problem with mine was a piss wet ECU

The battery I've checked is fine, voltage is normal so I can rule that out.

Getting error code 12 on the diagnostic which points to the ECU / starter / distributor circuit. Not touched any of the above while I did the water pump, only to take the alternator on and off. Checked the connectors for that, bone dry and no splits in the wiring. Car idles rough at around 300/400 missing like a mother fecker and blip of the throttle, lift off and it dies. Starts right back up again but miss and rough idle is there. When cold it did start up and idle as normal for about 40 seconds then started to miss and idle rough. I've checked the dizzy cap, leads, plugs and all

I have mine....a Celica GT4

There will be water on something in there for sure. There only needs to be a little bit of dam on a connecting pin for it make the car run shitty. Check all the main connections are dry and water free and check as said above the spark tubes for water and all will be well.

It does look like someones been using the jack on that point of the frame.

You sure your mates actually running 240? The GT mullered him but it would, we know GT's are better than those Micra things Welcome!

Got one from Toyota. The less sealant used the better imo

After a new water pump gasket. Toyota do them but if anyone has one new and in the alfreton I can pick up soon as, they can only get them in for Tuesday.

KYB's would be your best bet then Aaron. http://www.camskill.co.uk/m19b0s1311p0/Toyota_Starlet_Turbo_Parts_Tuning_Spares_and_Accessories_Suspension-_Shockers_and_Dampers Hard suspension? You should have a sit in my Celica with its 14kg spring rate coilovers

I need a replacement water pump housing for the back of the block as mines leaking due to a snapped bolt on one of the water pump bolts. It's this bit below which the water pump bolts to that I need.

I had one on my old GT4 and was very impressed with it. Very easy to setup and install and worked spot on.