Socks

Ryan McCluskey got his car featured in Banzai Magazine in the August 2013 Issue! here are the scans folks! Well done Ryan, a stunning car!

Right, first of all you want to remove ALL the gas from inside, either go to a bodyshop and have it removed.. Or nuke the ozone and help heat our world up a bit more.. If you opt for the heat.. Find your refill cap.. Should have a plastic cap on with the letter H on. Unscrew that cap. Place a cloth over the pin, and poke it with a screw driver, which will release all the gas. Make sure to hold a cloth over it otherwise it will spray aircon gas all over your bodywork and face. (VENTING THE AIRCON GASSES TO THE ATMOSPHERE IS ILLEGAL IN THE UK AND OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD. LEGALLY YOU SHOULD HAVE IT DEGASSED AT A BODYSHOP OR AIRCON REFILLING CENTRE.) (If you do happen to slip on the valve to vent it, DONT BREATH ANY IN) Next you want to unbolt all of the aircon radiator securing bolts from the slam panel, there is 2 x 10 mm bolts holding each corner of the radiator to the slam panel. 1 x 10 mm bolt holding the aircon rad fan to the slam panel. 1 x 12 mm bolt holding the horn to the slam panel Next remove the bonnet latch mechanism. 2 x 10mm bolts holding that to the slam panel. While your there, unbolt the bonnet latch panel, once you have the latch off , there is 1 x 10mm bolt at the top holding it to the slam panel, and 1 x 10mm bolt holding it to the chassis bar. While your taking those front bolts off, find the pump with the gas refill cap on. Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts on top holding the 2 lines on. And also remove the 10mm bolt from the bottom of it and pull the pipes off it. On the left hand side next to the headlamp, there is another aircon rad pipe connector. Undo the 10mm bolt, and pull the pipe out of its connection. Now for the bulk head pipes, these 2 will enter right underneath your stock airbox or airfilter if its still in oem position.So remove it to give you access to the pipes. Cant remember what size they are, but use 2 large adjustable spanners on them. 1 spanner on the first nut, and the 2nd spanner on the locking nut. Twist opposite ways, and once there loose, pull the pipes out of the bulk head connector. Now get underneath the car. find the aircon pump. It is directly underneath the oil filter housing. Cant miss it (big enough) You want to slacken the powersteering pulley off first to make it easier to get the belt off. Use a foot long extention and a 12mm socket on the end, and undo this tensioning bolt. Also use a 14mm long spanner to slacken this nut off. This should free up the power steering pulley. Get back up top of it and use a rubber mallet to tap the pulley as far down as it will go. This will let all tension off the belt. Back underneath, look at the aircon pump. It will have 4 x 12mm long bolts holding it to its housing. 2 x 12mm bolts at the bottom, and 2 x 12mm bolts at the top. (1 bolt is holding the oil filter drip trap on, remove the 12mm cap bolt, then the 12mm long bolt is underneath the capnut) This should drop the aircon compressor down. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the aircon line to the compressor pump. Pull off the pipe. Also unclip the electrical connection plug from the pump. Follow the line that went from the aircon compressor pump along the chassis, it is bolted to the chassis with a 10mm bolt, next to the water radiator lower hose. Again, whilst your under there, remove the oil filter drip tray if your haven't completely taken this off already. This will make it much easier to do oil changes with an oil filter strap. Also remove the aircon compressor pump brackets! weighs a hefty amount!! 4 x 12mm bolts. Now check you have all your lines unlatched from the aircon rad, and remove the lines from the engine bay.I have no intention of putting mine back in, so i cut through them with a hacksaw. Makes them easier to remove. Saves a lot of jiggling about. Otherwise if you have an EP91, you would have to remove the water coolant overflow bottle, battery, battery tray holder etc to get one of the main bulk head lines out. Make sure you have all your electrical connections unlatched from the front. If so, pull one side of the air con rad out to clear the driver side headlamp, this should allow you to pull the passenger side out and clear of the opposite headlamp. This leaves you this. So reattach all of your bonnet latch panel, bonnet latch, horn, clip all our electrical plugs back into the panel. Fit your shorter belt, tension the 12mm tensioning bolt up until the belt feels tight. (bit of common sense) Lock the power steering back in place using a 14mm long reach spanner. Make sure the aircon compressor plug isn't hanging freely, cable tie it otherwise. Recheck everything. This will leave you the finished article. TONS of room to play with.. Removing the air con helps when your removing the exhaust manifold, turbo etc. All you would have to do is drain your coolant from the rad, remove that and you have a huge open space. *** GT owners, you will have to bridge the connector for the pressure switch otherwise the fan will be permanently running from ignition on. *** Glanza owners don't have to worry about this to my knowledge. Article & Photos by Glanza_Ragger

Hopefully this will help a few people out, a quick and simple guide on how to change your front indicator lenses from either amber to clear or clear to amber It's a pretty easy job so don't be afraid to have a go. First off: tools, all you are going to need as a bare minimum is: Posidrive/cross head screw driver, fairly small one Flat blade screw driver That's it for basic straight swap; only other things you may want is something to clean them with. And if you are changing from amber to clear you'll want Silvatech or chromed bulbs to give it a cleaner look; these can be found on a quick eBay search or any decent car parts store should stock them as well Right so get your bonnet open and prop it up - first thing is the screw holding the top support in place, remove this. Once this is out you want to lift the light from the bottom and directly forward, no twisting etc, in order to pop the rear mount from the clip it locates into, like so (be firm but delicate, I broke my clip 1st time): This is the clip you are removing it from: Once this is free from this clip you should be able to wriggle it out from the body of the car. Once free either twist out the bulb and holder or unclip the connector to the holder. Repeat this for both sides, then head indoors with both units (it's winter so I'm staying warm ) Next step is to remove the lens; start off by removing the 2 small screws on the back, next to my finger and thumb. Now just gently pry the lens away from the side where you removed the screws from, just to break the seal (no glue just stuck from dirt and grime build up) but once it's broken stop as there's still some clips to remove! The clip on the top is the one you want to lift, this is where the flat blade comes into use. Be careful, don't lean on the lip on the lens as you will easily break it, do it on a flat surface and maybe use a cloth to spread the load if you need to! All you are looking to do is get the grey plastic to sit on top of the lens, this is the clip you want to lift, next to my forefinger. Once you have this clip lifted you want to pull on the same side you did earlier, the side the screws were removed from. It's a bit fiddly but it will come away like so: Once off you will be left with a grey version of this: Mine was sprayed because i thought it looked a bit funny with the grey behind on the non reflective area on a black car, I would test fit first to see if you want to spray yours or if you are happy leave it! Next remove the seal, give it a clean with a damp cloth and do the same with the unit and leave to dry. Once dry refit the seal, there is a gap at the bottom so don't worry about that Refitting: The new lens just pushes back on evenly all over, making sure all the clips locate properly. Refit screws on the back. Once done up, repeat for the second lens, then head back out to the car. Now if you have changed from amber to clear lenses this is the point you would want to change the amber bulbs for your Silvatech or chromed ones! Fit bulb and holder back in. Then the final bit, locate the bottom rear clip first then the top should just slide under the wing and over the little upstand where the screw goes into. Close bonnet, stand back and admire your handy work OId vs New or visa versa Hope this is of some use to some people! Photos & words by Morgey

Stage 2 is of UKSO's Tuning Walk-throughs is here! After the first guide was so extremely popular and showing owners how to boost performance from the factory 130bhp to around the 200bhp mark, people were soon wanting more and more and to extract that little extra performance from their cars without spending a huge amount of money! In Stage 1 of tuning your turbo starlet, we maxed out the standard turbo charger. The standard CT9 turbo runs out of puff at the 200bhp mark, however the standard engine is capable of pushing a touch more performance before the internals need changing to handle more power. Stage 2 is going to cover swapping out the standard CT9 turbocharger setup for a much bigger TD04L unit. The TD04L turbocharger is commonly found on the classic Subaru Impreza Turbo, and because these cars are so popular the spares and parts on the 2nd hand market are just as big. A standard TD04L in good working order can be had for between £40-120 depending upon mileage and their condition. A Few Things To Think About! Turbo Kits Race-Tech's TD04 Conversion Kit Companies such as Race-Tech & WEPR offer complete conversion kits including everything you need to convert your car, providing you have already tuned your car to Stage 1. If you're converting a standard starlet turbo to a TD04 then additional parts will be required. This guide is going to go through the conversion part by part, as if you were building your own conversion kit up and upgrading from Stage 1! Lag? Standard CT9 On Left & Standard TD04L on Right This always brings in a huge debate, its mainly from keyboard heroes that are still rocking CT9 turbos but here is my opinion on the subject. If you're considering converting to a TD04 turbo setup and you are worried about lag, try and find someone local to you that could take you out for a passenger ride. Until you've been in a well setup TD04 converted starlet then save your judgment. The additional torque and power available for a small sacrifice of maybe 700-800rpms is more than worth it. On top of this, CT9s are out of puff towards 6500rpm and TD04s pull to the limiter. There are many things that can done in the future to help reduce lag, shorter intercooler pipework, electronic boost controllers and even billet wheel hybrid TD04s. Engine Health As mentioned in Stage 1, when extracting more power from an engine, its health is a priority. When you're going to be pushing close to double the original power output, then health is a major priority. These engines were produced between 1989-1999, they aren't getting any younger and mechanical fatigue is going to get the better of them sooner or later. I would highly recommend you run a compression test to ensure the engine is of good health and service it every 4000-5000miles if you can to prolong its life. There's no reason why it wont last just as long as it would have on the standard turbo, providing it's cared for, treated right and not thrashed from cold every morning. Internal Wastegate or External Wastegate Both the CT9 and the TD04 are internal wastegated turbochargers, their boost levels are controlled by a spring loaded actuator which is connected to a flap that's built into the design of the exhaust housing. When the desired boost limit is reached the flap opens and dumps excess exhaust gas down the exhaust, making the exhaust louder. On an external wastegate setup, the standard internal wastegate flap would need welding up solid as it would no longer be used. Instead, the exhaust manifold will have a take-off to fit an external wastegate unit. Basically a spring loaded valve, which does the same job, but are far superior when holding a boost level. They usually also vent the excess exhaust gas through a screamer pipe. These are VERY loud and when your car comes on boost, the noise can only be described as a thrusting rocket jet type noise. An external wastegate setup is far superior over using the standard internal wastegate setup and will hold boost much better when going over 1bar of pressure. They do however cost much more to buy as will the manifold to suit, but it is money well spent! Collecting Parts Yourself! Manifold & Downpipe The first part of the conversion kit that you're going to need is a different manifold and downpipe. As the TD04 has different flanges on both sides and is a lot bigger in size, it needs mounting further away from the engine. This will allow you to physically mount the turbocharger on the engine. The downpipes are designed to bolt up to your existing 3 bolt flanged exhaust system. These can be purchased from UKSO Trader Race-Tech or from other companies such as WEPR or Zisco Performance. TD04L Turbocharger The TD04 turbocharger itself can be purchased from a few different places depending how much you wish to spend. Searching 'TD04L' on ebay will bring up lots of them for between £40-£120 depending upon mileage and condition. If you'd rather purchase new, reconditioned units can be purchased from many places including Traders on UKSO. The best and most expensive way is to purchase a Hybrid Billet Wheel TD04 from Race-Tech or Tuning Developments. Spooling much faster, yet still producing more power they are the best out of them all. They do however come with a hefty price tag. TD04 Oil Lines The standard CT9 turbocharger is cooled & lubricated by both Oil & Water. The oil lines are different on the TD04 turbocharger. An Oil Feed Line would be required to go from the oil filter housing to the turbocharger and a silicone oil return line to go from the turbocharger to the sump pan. The Oil Feed Line can be had from Race-Tech, Tuning Developments & Zisco Performance. The oil return pipe is just a simple 90 degree silicone bend which can be purchased from any decent silicone hose supplier. TD04L Oil Return Size - 16mm 4E-FTE Sump Oil Return Size - 19mm TD04 Water Lines The water lines aren't actually necessary on the TD04 turbocharger, many users have run them with and without water lines. There have been reports of much cooler engine water temps when not using turbo water lines. The water line kits can be purchased from the same traders as the oil lines. If you're going to run without them a simple 'U' shape blanking silicone pipe will be required to blank off the outputs from the thermostat housing. Hot Side Intercooler Pipework The hot side intercooler pipe is also different as the standard CT9 turbocharger outputs upward and the TD04 turbocharger outputs downwards. With the majority of front mounted intercooler kits, all that is required is a 90deg alloy bend and 2 silicone joiners. This will vary though depending upon the intercooler kit you have and which turbo manifold you've chosen. Air Filter/New Mesh The TD04's intake is also much much bigger then that of the CT9. So some new mesh or a new filter setup will be required. See a guide on how to do this here: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/page/articles.html/_/engineandtuning/turbo-mesh-r17 Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator This is not deemed 100% necessary on this conversion as the fuelling can be adjusted perfectly with the ECU. However it is a very useful bit of adjustment for any tuner to get your fuelling just right. A bit of extra pressure may also save you the hassle of having to go to bigger injectors! If you get hold of one with a gauge its also handy to get it setup perfectly! An adaptor will be needed to connect one up to the starlet fuel rail. Management/Mapping This is where you're going to save some money if you spent money on an E-Manage Piggyback ECU from the Stage 1 Tuning Guide. The plug and play ECUs aren't designed to work with a turbo as large as the TD04L so if you went down the mappable ECU route, be it Piggyback or Standalone, you can simply take a slow off boost drive back to your tuning specialist and have the ecu remapped again to suit the larger turbo. So.... Once again at the end of another stage of a tuning walkthrough! If you've followed the guide your car should now be producing 220-240bhp depending on the health of your engine and turbocharger. Just like Stage 1 it wont take long for you to get used to this kind of performance and the search for even more power will hit you again! Be warned though Stage 3 is where serious money becomes a factor and the engine will require an overhaul with stronger components to be able to handle more boost pressure! Please Check Back Soon for Stage 3 The spec of aaddzz123's car when he was running a standard engine and TD04L setup: Greddy E-Manage Blue WEPR TD04 Externally Gated Manifold WEPR TD04 Downpipe Demon 38mm External Wastegate @ 1.2bar Japspeed Exhaust System Meshed Turbo Filter J-Performance Front Mounted Intercooler Walbro Fuel Pump Kit Magnecor HT Leads Iridium Spark Plugs 242.3bhp & 179.8lb-ft

Having lightweight wheels keeps your starlet feeling like its much lighter on its feet. Below is a database that members of UKSO have put together to compare weights! The perfect Size & Offset wheels for these cars is considered to be 15"x6.5" ET38. The Lighter the wheels the Faster you will go! The list is going to be sorted via Weights, and it will only contain 14",15" & 16" Wheels as these are the most common wheel sizes to fit to our cars! 3.9kg - Desmond Rega Master EVO - 15x6.5 3.9kg - SSR Type-C - 15x6.5 4.0kg - Volk TE37 - 15x6.5 4.2kg - Volk TE37 - 15x7 4.3kg - Kei Office KS-CE - 15x6.5 4.6kg - BuddyClub P1 - 15x7 4.8kg - Advan Racing RG - 15x6.5 4.9kg - Enkei IRS - 14x6 4.9kg - Wedsport TC-005 - 15x7 5.0kg - Advan Racing ARS RR - 14x6 5.0kg - TOM's New Action - 14x6 5.1kg - OZ Superleggera - 15x7 5.2kg - TRD Sports T3 - 15x6.5 5.4kg - Rota Slipstream - 15x6.5 5.5kg - Sparco Crimson NS2 - 15x7 5.5kg - TOM's New Action - 15x6.5 5.5kg - Ultralite G-Spec - 15x6.5 5.9kg - Rota Grid - 15x6.5 6.1kg - Team Dynamics Pro Race 1 - 15x7 7.3kg - Advan Racing SA3R - 15x6.5 7.7kg - ATS Cup - 15x7 9.5kg - Speedline Safari - 15x6 (Factory Fitted Starlet SR) If you know of any more or have bare wheels in your garage, get them weighed and post up results! Regards Socks

A Toyota Brochure from back in 1998 that covers the S, SR & GLS all 3 of which are UK Models.

How many cars have you been in that have got a Secret Box? Exactly... None... Just adds to how cool these cars are and how unique our fellow Japanese friends are! It is one of so many factory fitted options you could specify from your Toyota dealer in Japan when buying a Starlet brand new! This particular option was only offered on the EP91 Starle but will fit any Starlet that has a free DIN slot! It can be seen in the optional accessories brochure here: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/page/articles.html/_/jdm-scans/1997-ep91-original-accessories-r39 Based on the Toyota Multibox Optional Accessory the Secret Box replaces the Coin & Card holder on the right hand side. Lower the flap to reveal a 3 digit combination lock, where a code is needed to gain access to the dark blue velvet lined drawer! With the drawer open, to set the code to whatever you wish, push the silver pin up until it clicks on the back of the front panel of the drawer. Choose your desired code... Push the silver pin back down again, close the drawer and push up the black switch on the front panel. Then jumble the code up. Locked up safe and sound! Simple but effective! These are extremely rare, currently only aware of 2 in the UK (09/03/13) and go for big money, so if your starlet has one I suggest holding onto it!

The original TRD brochure for 'sporty' and 'sporty' driving parts. How many cars these days could have come with a cage as standard!

EP91 Original Accessories A large selection of optional extras and accessories for all varients of the EP91 in Japan

The TD04-13T (TD04L) turbo is a very popular turbocharger in the Starlet World! The standard CT9 turbocharger is out of puff at 200bhp where as the TD04 turbo is good for a further 50bhp on the stock engine! They are very easy to get hold of as they were fitted to Subaru Impreza Turbos for over 8 years! Being so popular there are a fair few out there that smoke and that means a rebuild is in order! So have a read through this guide, this very simple DIY process should stop any smoking from your exhaust from turbo seal failure! TD04L Rebuild Kit - Avaliable on eBay Hammer Flat Blade Screwdriver Socket Set WD40 Blowtorch Disassembly Remove all the hoses and clamps, including the vaccum lines to the wastegate and compressor housing. Then remove the clamp that goes around the center of the turbochargers core. Its usually a 10mm nut, once removed the clamp can be completely removed. Remove the 17mm banjo bolts for the coolant lines, be careful not to loose the copper washers! Remove the 2x10mm bolts that secure the oil return pipe to the turbochargers core. There may also be some sealant that may hinder the removal. Now for the hard bit! Due to a nice tight fit, plenty of heat cycles, rust and age. The exhaust housing and the core will be nice and seized up most likely! Use plenty of WD40/PlusGas (Penatrating Fluid) to try and loosen the join. Flat blade screw driver and a hammer, Rubber Mallet or even some additional heat from a blowtorch will all help. Once the exhaust housing is free from the core, the compressor housing then needs removing. You will need some snap ring pliers for this and it can be a little fiddley! IMPORTANT The turbocharger will be balanced perfectly and altering this balance will cause accelerated turbo wear. The exhaust and compressor wheels when removed from the shaft will need to be re-fitted in the exact same rotation as they were to ensure the balance is kept correct. Marking the shaft and wheels on the outsides will allow you to get this right on re-assembly. Use an 8mm socket for the compressor wheel nut and a 12mm socket to hold the turbine end. Please note that certain TD04's compressor wheel nuts are reverse threaded so be careful! Remove the compressor wheel, it should slide off the shaft and put it somewhere safe. Remove and bin the large rubber o-ring around the lip of the compressor side end of the core. Push/Tap the shaft and it should come out complete with the exhaust wheel. Be careful not to bend any of the fins upon removal! Using the snap ring pliers remove the visible snap ring on the compressor side of the core. The clip holds the compressor seal in place. Remove the compressor seal from the core, using multiple flat blade screwdrivers or knifes at opposites will allow you to pry it out. The compressor seal has a metal insert, it may have fallen out when you removed the seal. Remove the bronze seal plate. It pops out but may need a little persuasion. Remove the interior o-ring from the compressor side. Remove the small spacer found beneth the bronze seal plate. Remove the compressor side bearing. Re-Seal & Re-Build Lubricate with some oil the new bearing from your rebuild kit and fit it into the compressor side. Place the new bronze seal plate spacer on top of the new bearing, then install the new bronze seal plate. This should click into place and there is only one proper orientation. Fit the replacement o-ring. On the end of the compressor seal insert there is a piston ring type ring. Remove the old one and replace it with the new item from your rebuild kit. Ensure plenty of lube is used and fitting the new one is actually quite easy. Ensure its fully seated before carrying on! Assemble the compressor seal insert and compressor seal. Fit the snap ring back in place that holds the compressor seal in place. Replace the piston ring on the turbo shaft. Very similar to the one on the end of the compressor seal insert. Fitting the new one can be difficult due to a groove just above the ring. Reassemble the turbine side using plenty of lubricant. Slide the bearing onto the shaft and insert the shaft back into the core until it clicks into place, the shaft should spin nice and free inside the core. Slide the compressor wheel back onto the shaft and ensure the markings you made line up again and then tighten the nut. It will take you a few attempts to get it perfect be patient! Tighten the nut until it stops then give it a quarter of a turn to nip it up. Clean both the oil return faces and reassemble the remaining water lines & clamps. Then you should be good to go! This should stop your smoking turbocharger, there may be excess oil left in the exhaust of your car so take the car for a short drive and it should clear up! Remember this is a simple do it yourself guide, if you can afford to I would seriously consider having it done by a professional and purely because it will be properly rebalanced afterwards to ensure it is 100% perfect!

Welcome you power hungry animals! If your wanting 200bhp then look no further I’m going to try my best to talk you through it! This is considered the limit on the standard engine and turbo, further tuning you’ll be looking at a bigger turbocharger! Check Your Health If you’re fat, how would you feel to be asked to run a marathon? Asking your engine to handle nearly double the stock boost pressure without work and additional help is just silly! So there are a few things we need to do to ensure your engine is healthy. If your engine is poorly or has issues, tuning and pushing it will only accelerate the problem and may lead to a failure! Free Power Everyone loves free performance! Air Conditioning The air conditioning system on these cars is very very annoying. Not only do they sap a serious amount of power from your car, turned on or off. But the weight of the system and the rotational drag on the engine also slows you down. With the system fitted it is also a chuffing joke to get to the oil filter! So removing this system has a huge benefit for tuners as the excess space created makes space for intercoolers and filter systems! Weight Reduction Nothing kills acceleration more than weight. The main reason for these cars being so nippy is because they weigh less then 920kg’s! So removing additional weight is free and helps even more. Back seats, Spare Wheel, Jack, Toolkit, your Mates or Girlfriend all slow you down! Boost Restriction The GT Turbo’s aren't affected by this, but the Glanza V’s are so check out the guide below for removing this restriction. Tuning Time! So you've now removed as much weight as possible, moving on to the good bits. The 4E-FTE engine is a very tuneable little lump. It’s actually very easy to get good power gains out of them, there are many different ways to get to the same results. I’ve read lots of information on forums and other websites, talking to lots of tuners and even fellow members. Below I’m going to go through the best way in my opinion. As on any car, putting an aftermarket exhaust system on a car is a great way to allow the engine to get rid of its waste faster and easier. Amplified on turbocharged cars, as they don’t require any kind of back pressure from an exhaust to generate more power. They just need to get rid of the waste as fast as possible. The Starlet Turbo comes with a very small diameter exhaust system that is restrictive at stock boost levels, but will become a real issue at any more boost pressure! The stock item will also be rusty, old, possibly collapsed inside, which will all restrict the engine further! The first part of the exhaust the change is the cat-back system. It connects up to the catalytic converter just under the engines sump pan and goes all the way to the tailpipe at the back of the car. There are plenty of choices of exhausts, anything that’s 2.25” to 2.5” will be plenty big enough for the standard ct9 turbocharger. The second part of the exhaust you should change is the catalytic converter. It bolts directly on to the side of the turbo and connects up to your cat-back exhaust system. The cat is effectively a very fine mesh to filter out harmful exhaust gases from going into the atmosphere. It’s very restrictive and removing it will see a very noticeable gain in performance. A De-Cat Downpipe replaces the entire unit with a straight through pipe. The final part of the exhaust you need to change is the manifold. On the 4E-FTE engine the manifold is a particularly poor design in terms of tuning/flow. The ports on cylinders 2 and especially 3 are very restrictive and can result in engine failure if boost pressure is raised with this restriction in place! An easy and cheap way of removing this restriction is to grind out the restrictions down the ports. This will do the job, but it won’t flow as well as a tubular manifold. An aftermarket tubular manifold will give the exhaust gases a nice clean, smooth and direct route to the turbocharger. Just like the exhaust system, the standard intake system is again, very restrictive. The standard route comes off the hot turbo, up and straight over the red hot exhaust manifold, down the side of the hot engine and to a sealed air box at the back of the engine bay! Not an ideal route for performance! Relocating the air filter to in front of the radiator is an excellent place to allow fresh air to get into your turbocharger! This will require removal of your air conditioning system however! We have a guide on how to relocate your air filter in our wiki section for less than £30! Coming Soon To stop debris going into the turbocharger, another option is to simply use mesh as a filtration system. This is a very cheap and probably the least restrictive way for an intake setup. There is also a guide in our wiki section on how to do this! http://www.ukstarletowners.com/page/articles.html/_/engineandtuning/turbo-mesh-r17 When the air has been compressed by the turbocharger, the air is very hot and passes through the tiny top mounted intercooler core before going into the engine. The standard top mounted intercooler does a very good job at the standard boost pressure, but again when we are planning on raising the boost pressure level and tuning the car it soon becomes a limiting factor. A front mounted intercooler is the best way to fix this issue. Relocates the intercooler system to the front of the car where the cold air is. The colder the charge temperatures of the air going into the engine, the much denser the air will be (more oxygen). The more oxygen the bigger bang you’ll get inside the cylinders and therefore resulting in more power. Now we have freed off the flow of air and gasses in and out of our engine, we need to ensure the Ignition & Fuel system is up to the job! The stock fuel pump can flow enough fuel to reach more power, however being as old as these cars are, means they are getting on a bit! A direct fitment Walbro 255lph uprated fuel pump kit is a very wise investment. They will provide a stable fuel flow for over 350bhp on these cars, so for the stock engine and turbo its more than enough. The stock ignition system will also most likely be just as old as the pump. The HT Leads are terrible and very small. The King Leads are usually the main culprit for these cars just starting to randomly misfire one day. Changing them is another very wise move. Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm are also worth replacing if they are showing signs of wear. There not expensive and worth it to ensure you get a perfect spark inside your engine. The final part that I’d recommend is a vented oil catch can. The standard breather port vents into the intake system, which can sometimes lead to a build up of oil in the pipework when the boost pressure is raised. Run a line from the breather port on the rocker cover to a tank somewhere in the engine bay. This is preferred over a breather filter fitted directly onto the port on the engine. They can spit oil vapour out making an oily mess in your engine bay, especially at 1bar of boost! At this point your car should be ready to handle the additional boost pressure, your nearly there! To allow you to adjust your boost pressure you’re going to need to fit an adjustable turbo actuator. The turbo actuator is what controls when the wastegate port opens and closes to bleed off excess exhaust gas. This allows fine adjustment of how much boost pressure is built in the system. The stock actuator has a very soft spring inside and is not adjustable in any way. Adjusting the length of the threaded rod to change the boost pressure, lengthen the rod to lower the boost pressure, shorten the rod to raise the boost pressure. This can also be adjusted by a Manual or Electronic Boost Controller. However a stronger adjustable actuator is always a wise investment to keep the boost pressure stable. You can use a controller with an uprated actuator! The standard ECU on the Starlet Turbo’s have a Fuel Cut Defend system built in. This will kick in if the ECU recognizes the boost pressure going higher than 0.85Bar by cutting fuel. It’s a very violent jerk that will come as quite a shock if you’re not expecting it. When setting boost pressure remember that you will always build more boost in higher gears at higher speeds. So set your boost perfect in 4th or 5th gear at a decent speed. If you don’t hit fuel cut then, then you won’t in low gears at slower speeds. Fuel Cut Defenders are devices which allow you to go beyond the factory fuel cut limiter by raising that limit. At this point you’re where your engine can be destroyed in minutes if you’re not VERY careful. Without excess fuel pressure and an aftermarket ECU to control your system, it’s only going to end in tears. Aftermarket ECU’s have raise the fuel cut limiter so a fuel cut defender is something I would suggest avoiding! There are three major tried and test ways for tuning these cars with aftermarket ECU’s. Each type have their own features and pro’s and con’s which are listed below. JDM Plug & Play Aftermarket ECU’s These ECU’s are basically a stock ECU that has been opened up and fitted with additional circuit boards to allow control over certain parameters inside the ECU. There provided by some of the major JDM tuners such as Blitz, JAM, MINEs, ZEP, TOMs and SARD. They all tend to have the same feature lists: Removed or Raised Fuel Cut Limiters Removed 112mph Speed Limiters Increased Rev Limiters (Varies 8000-8300rpm) More Aggressive Tuned Map There also great as they allow you to run 1-1.2bar of boost pressure without the need to visit a rolling road or get your car remapped. To fit you simple unplug the stock ecu and reconnect the new one. Simple! However there is a downside, because they aren’t mapped specifically for your own car and its setup. It doesn’t guarantee to be 100% perfect, they may run rich in some places in the rev range or lean in others. Usually its small amounts, but its worth getting your fueling check at a local tuners to be safe! There not available new anymore and tend to be priced second hand between £400-£550. Tuneable Piggyback ECU’s By far the most popular way of tuning these cars here in the UK at the moment. G-Reddy’s range of E-Manage ECUs are readily available and offer much more adjustability then a Plug & Play ECU. These ECU’s piggyback the stock ECU and override certain parameters needed to tune the car for more boost pressure. Plug & Play Wiring Harness’s do exist for these ECU’s but are rare, the majority come with a bare harness that will require wiring into the stock wiring loom in your car. Once wired in they also then require mapping on a rolling road by a professional tuner. They do all the same things the Plug & Play ECU’s do but the map will be custom made to work perfectly with your car and its modifications. These are still available new, but tend to fetch between £140-£240 second hand. The ECU will need to be wired in by a professional and then a Mapping Session by a tuner which will cost between £250-300. The majority of tuners here in the UK offer packages to supply, fit and tune an E-Manage to your car for between £500-£550. Tuneable Standalone ECU’s The final way is by far the best way of tuning these cars. A full standalone ECU gets rid of any factory ECU and all its parameters meaning you have full control over every element of the engines tune. This is usually considered overkill for the stock engine and turbo and the gains would be minimal at this level of power. However if you’re looking to go for a bigger turbo or engine work further down the line this would be a wise purchase. The majority of the standalone systems on the market for these cars are not plug and play and require wiring in with the exception of the Apexi PowerFC. These systems tend to start at the £800 mark and go up into the sky! So.... That’s it, if you've followed this guide you car should be producing between 190-210bhp depending on the health of your engine and turbocharger. It won’t take long for you to get used to this kind of power however and the search for more power will soon hit you. The next step will be a turbo upgrade on the stock engine. Another guide will be available soon on how to do this! The spec of my car back when I was on the stock engine & turbo: Blitz Access ECU Zisco Ram Horn Manifold Blitz Decat Fujitsubo Power Getter Exhaust System Toy Tuning Air Filter Relocation Kit HDI Front Mount Intercooler HKS Actuator @ 1.1bar Walbro Fuel Pump Kit Magnacore HT Leads Irdium Spark Plugs 202.6bhp & 173.4lb-ft

There are many people who arent completely in-the-know on how to post pictures on the website. Hopefully the following will help you to realise how easy this really is! There are many different ways to do this, Im going to show you the easiest way using a website called Photobucket... First off, go to the Photobucket website and create an account/log in... Once your account is created or you've logged in... Select Upload Image.... Select Browse Files, this will allow you to navigate on your laptop/computer and select the images you want to share... Once you've selected the image/images you want to share, click upload.... A few seconds later, your image will appear in your photobucket album, on the right hand side you will see a varity of image links. The IMG code is the one you need to use on ukso and the majority of other websites/forums. Copy (Right Click, Copy, to Copy the IMG code) and right click in the forum editor and select Paste, to post the photo IMG code into the forum.... You can Select Preview next to the Post button, to see if your image is displayed correctly... Ta-daaaa. Simple as That! There are MANY different companies that offer free image hosting online. Photobucket also offer an App avaliable on Android and iOS for use with smartphones. The technique is still the same! Share your Photos in Build Progress Threads and Picture of the Month. Remember For Sale Threads, require images of the item to allow the moderators to approve your threads! Happy Sharing!

Few rare photos taken at ZEP in Japan!

A few rare photos of the legendary JAM-Racing Workshop.

Got this sorted! The forum is very easy to use straight from your iOS device! Now featuring a fresh new icon too! Check it out below, follow on down how to get us on your iOS device! Making accessing UKSO even easier then before! Visit our website at www.ukstarletowners.com, the default phone view looks like this: Very Fast to Load & Saves your Data Allowance! (Full Size Version can be selected at the bottom) Hit the bookmark/share button in the middle at the bottom on an iPhone. Our Icon will then appear in the middle, Select 'Add To Home Screen' Call it what you want.... Tap 'Add' and jobs a good'un! Enjoy Folks

Big Thanks to Si, for getting these sorted for us. To help share the spec of your car at shows to others! Download below, fill it out and print it off! Simple! (Right Click - Save Target As) Click To Download Preview:

UKSO & TGTT Joined Forces to show respect for the late Dave Burwash. It was given a brief mention in Banzai Magazine!

Nippon was lucky enough to get a 3 page feature in Fast Car Magazine in 2012!

TM-Developments got there EP82 GT Turbo Race Car that was used in the Toyota Sprint Series in 2011!

Idrees got his car featured in Banzai Magazine in 2012! here are the scans folks!

Many people don't realise how many factory colour choices were avaliable on the Toyota Starlet! Especially on the early MK1 GT Turbos! Have a look below at the amount of choice you had as a new buyer in Japan! Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Mk1 1989-1992 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 185 Colour Name: Bluish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3H4 Colour Name: Red Mica Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 6L2 Colour Name: Blackish Green Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 8H1 Colour Name: Grayish Blue Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 040/4L5 Colour Name: Super White II & Beige Metallic Rarity: The Rarest, Not Even Photographed... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3H4/4L5 Colour Name: Red Mica Metallic & Beige Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 6L2/4L5 Colour Name: Blackish Green & Beige Metallic Rarity: Very Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Mk2 1992-1994 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 182 Colour Name: Bluish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: The Most Common Colour on the Mk2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 6M6 Colour Name: Green Metallic Rarity: The Rarest Colour on the Mk2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205/182 Colour Name: Black Metallic & Bluish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare, Only available on the 'GT Limited' (Limited Edition) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet GT Turbo Mk3 1994-1995 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 199 Colour Name: Silver Metallic Rarity: Rare, Only available on the Mk3 GT! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: Very Common, Most Mk3 GTs are this colour! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 746 Colour Name: Turquoise Metallic Rarity: Rarest Colour on the Mk3 GT! (Believed to be 3 in UK as of 07/11/12) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205/182 Colour Name: Black Metallic & Blueish Gray Metallic Rarity: Rare, Only available on the 'GT Advance' (Limited Edition) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet Glanza Pre-Facelift 1996-1997 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3E5 Colour Name: Super Red II Rarity: Rare ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 1A0 Colour Name: Bluish Silver Rarity: Most common colour ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 8K9 Colour Name: Purplish Blue Rarity: Rarest colour! So Rare, Toyota didn't bother offering it on the facelift Glanza! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Toyota Starlet Glanza Facelift 1998-1999 Colour Code: 040 Colour Name: Super White II Rarity: Most common colour ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 205 Colour Name: Black Metallic Rarity: Common ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 3E5 Colour Name: Super Red II Rarity: Rarest colour on the facelift Glanza! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Colour Code: 1A0 Colour Name: Bluish Silver Rarity: Rare on a Facelift Model!