Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 4EFEJay

  • Rank
    Settled In Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1857 profile views
  1. Do you still have a glanza ep91 front and rear bumper available?
  2. You can get it in, I've got one on mine, you just have to bend the bracket a little bit, I put some rubber around the brace so it didn't wear the filter. Been on for 3 hard years on track and never been a problem.
  3. I do Sprints which typically means less than 2 - 3 minutes on track and little time to get heat into the tyres. Nankang AR-1 is good. But the R888R is worth about 2 seconds on a sprint. The extra lateral grip in corners is easily noticeable. On trackways where you get a lap or 2 to heat the tyres, AD08R were great but I did struggle to get a lot of heat into them in a stripped out starlet with 200hp. I'm yet to beat the R888R Toyo in terms of track time if you're really looking for time.
  4. Thanks guys. Given me a few options to explore. I think I'm leading towards making my own using standard rail mount points and building new brackets off that.
  5. Looking for some seat rails to fit new Sparco Seats. The only options I seem to find are Japan import for ridiculous money. Has anyone made their own from the standard mounts? Cheers Jay
  6. We were racing at Croft this weekend. 2nd in Class but it was a tough day as the weather kept changing. Everyone seemed to get different weather and I always seemed to go out just after or as it rained! Lost to a MX5 on silly grippy tyres and some serious suspension work! I'm definitely after an ARB and Anti Lift kit now! Video from the weekend:
  7. Do you still have the anti lift kit?
  8. I'm now after a rear anti-roll bar. Does anyone have experience of these? If they make a good difference, and running them with the anti-dive kit whittline do?
  9. I've built it for the Japanese Sprint Series and the Toyota Sprint Series Championship. These were the main reason for not just strapping a turbo to it. As that then puts you in some classes that don't really make sense for a 1.3 turbo starlet. Doesn't sit too low. With the wide track I've raise the coilovers up a little more to give some more clearance. Sump is just a touch shorter than the bottom gearbox mount, so if I do hit anything it should be that first. Although we're still going to make a sump guard for it. Master cylinder is from I believe an IQ or an Aygo (Can't remem
  10. Nice! Of it out and about or the Fensport pics? Underbrace was required to mount the gearbox and it also strengthens the arms that come down from the chassis to stop it splitting and supports the extra width!
  11. Well I'm resurrecting my build thread due to a few *small* updates and changes. I apologise for not keeping it up to date for a long time, buying a house. Moving 200 miles across the country and not really doing much with it meant lack of updates. But I’m back. Having won 2 Championships with the Starlet as it was in 1.3NA form. I decided I needed more power and an update. The problems I faced was if I just stuck a turbo on my NA engine were blowing it up as I got greedy with boost and it puts me in a class in the Toyota Sprint with other cars that would be far out of reach to even c
  12. Fixed. Turns out I was one tooth out on the exhaust cam. Dots look lined up even with one tooth out. All fixed and timed up now. Little bit of white smoke but hoping its just condensation as cars been sat for 6 months.
  13. No crank should always be TDC 0 when lining up the cams. But base timing is 10. Diagnostic Pins bridged too. No engine codes. I think we have found the problem. One tooth out on the cam side as it wasn't very clear.
  14. So over the winter i've been doing some work on my starlet head ready for the 2018 race season. Ported, polished and head skim. I've recently put it all back together with new cam belt. Crank Pulley is all lined up at 0 on the cover. and the cam shafts are aligned correctly. Dots are facing each other and the cams are pointing the right way etc. It all runs but i've put the timing light on it today and now matter how far I turn the dizzy I can only seem to get a max of about 2 - 3 degrees. Im at the end of the Distributor travel. Someones mentioned to me that I should hav
  15. I'm also after one. Cash waiting if either of you still have them? Jay
  • Create New...