NightSpirit

Yup cannards....from Yahoo, can get these specific for EP brand new

Evening all, I'm glad Ryan has gone public with this...this guy is one of the worst people I've ever dealt with in many years... Firstly, I sold the clutch for £250 shipped to Ireland...that's quite cheap for a £600 plus clutch, I said it was used but was useable. All the used parts I buy I try to make sure they're in good order otherwise I can't sell them...this particular clutch was for my track car, but as I bought a car with one fitted, I sold it on. The clutch was supposed to be collected (over the busiest time of the year...christmas week) by DHL. DHL cocked up many times, I kept Ryan up to date and apologised along the way. Ryan asked for a refund, I asked him to wait a few days for the clutch to arrive...it did. He then tells me the clutch is burnt out, useless, I'm ripping him off etc. He says he has many photos... I say ok, send it back and I'll check the clutch out as there are always people out there trying it on, ordering something, saying they don't want it..or even saying they've sent it back asking for a refund while all the time having the item still...it happens. 4-5 weeks pass and no word from Ryan. All of a sudden a short mail (this guy makes communication impossible with 5 word pms etc), he's posted it back... I wait...nothing arrives....Ryan sends me an invoice request via Paypal....no pm...no communication. I send many pms asking how he sent it...was it insured? he NEVER answers any of these questions just says things like 'I will be getting my money back'. The clutch shows up on saturday, all well boxed, I have it booked in with a specialist tomorrow...as per the pm I sent Ryan tonight. If it's knackered, I'll refund him no problem but I need to check it out. And now finally, he's gone and posted here about it all, which I'm glad about...as Mart and anyone else who knows me or has dealt with me will tell you, I'm no cowboy, I'm a decent guy and I keep my word, my reputation speaks for itself. I had the foresight to keep all pms sent and received from Ryan and would be happy to post them up here if it were required. I also agree that a feedback section is a good idea... Now Ryan, for the last time, I will have the clutch checked tomorrow and if it's knackered and everything is in order, your money is on the way. Do you honestly think I'd rip you off £250? I receive and order around £20k a month most of the time, come on.

Little update...while it stopped raining I stuck one of the purple speed skirts on, very much a work in progress...

I used a big angle grinder on mine, then a dremel for the smaller bits...then a big drill bit to cut the hole above the grill in the bumper...then angle grinder to cut the whole thing out. Hacksaw's are far too slow

Polycarb sheet from Ebay...4mm thick, 95cmx51cm job done

It's already over 300hp per tonne, aim is to get it below 700kg on this round of mods and then leave it well alone

But it'd say... this is how you spray a car matt black.

If anyone wants me to do one...I'll do one when I'm done

Like a nervous paedophile... It's touch and go

I've also got a poly carb slider to add to the drivers side window

Gee, the trackstar is road legal but is intended for track use only...it's a dog on the road. Riko you NEED to start the extreme weight loss program. Next time I see you and it's daylight, we'll get cracking.

Lesta mate....I use the palm sander on plastics too..like the skirts etc, tbh a blown plastic spoiler or decent FRP item will take a good bit of stick. Scotchbrite imo, I'd just key up the surface before the primer goes on, if you wish to follow Alex's advice...I'd key up, give it a rough spray to give the sticking layer, then just spray over the top, you only need to wet and dry it if you have any imperfections or raised areas. Don't make the job hard for yourself. clean surface with soap/water use cellulose thinners to remove any wax/grease Palm sand down to a smooth finish all over scotchbrite the whole thing until the surface looks dull clean surface with soap/water dry thoroughly apply first rough coat of primer if there are no runs or fuck ups, apply more coats of primer Job done.

I started with the 1200 etc wet and dry but found it took too long, so bought a Black and Decker Palm Sander (like the mouse but a little bigger). Using the 240 paper is fine enough for me, I've used it to smooth the door lock filler and remove any imperfections in the paint, then I've used 1 coat of plastic primer (or metal primer) and got it nice and wet, let that dry for 24 hours, then I've applied 3 coats of in my case matt black. Giving it 15-20 mins between coats then 24 hours to dry. I'd recommend the sander anyway to get the paint smooth before using the wet and dry if you really really want to. To be honest though, buy a block of scotchbrite pads from Ebay (medium grade) it's like a foam brillo pad...before you spray, just key up the surface with the scotchbrite to dull everything, it's very quick and easy as the pads are flexible and last a good while. Then wipe down with a clean damp cloth, dry thoroughly and get spraying. have to say, spraying is great fun and there's a real sense of acheivement when you're done. When I've finished the car I hope to stand back and think...I like it, I've done that and not 'oh fuck my car has loprosy'

I use a palm sander by the way with 240 grade pads to remove/smooth down...saves lots of time and is way better than wet and dry bollocks... I use Halfords plastic primer and Halfords standard grey primer. Personally I don't like Plastikote it, it never seems to last, it's good but not as good as the Halfords primer. I'm no professional though so don't shout at me Alex

Spoiler should land early April I've still got to do the same thing driver's side, then bond on the body bits, new mirror plates, side skirts, paint the bonnet, boot, rear bumper...all off the car. So far used 3.7 cans of paint.

and DON'T cut it back to bare metal..it's pointless. Just do as Alex says, much easier.

Speaking from new experience of this... I'd say, clean the thing with soapy (non waxy) water, then celulose thinner to remove surface wax and grime...then scotchbrite the whole thing to rough up the paint to aid sticking of new paint...then if no work is needed (primer etc) just whack on several coats of matt black paint

Been a little while, I've been spraying stuff, lightening stuff...and making stuff. Can I just say, spraying a car...and doing it carefully takes a LONG time without a suitable garage. Apologies for big pics These were stock skirts...weighed too much so I 'cut them' Poly carb sheet, £15 a sheet instead of £65 for a precut one (piece of piss) De badged door...and while I was at it, I ditched the lock and smoothed it over Voila...sex Lighter window bits, no lock, no holding up the glass (tiger seal) nice.

Yup any welder/pipe maker can fab up some piping to your needs, that way you can get nice large bore pipe...maximise that flow. As anyone would tell you, your performance products are only as good as the weakest item Apex-i core? from a supra (which is HUGE by the way...doubt it'd fit the ep82) I'm guessing about £300.

Why not be original and get an apexi core from a supra or something and make up the mounts? that would look bad ass and would cool more air than your car could ever possibly flow

But in all honesty...if you want the best of the best...Apex-i lead the way in intercoolers. Look at the FMIC on a JZA80, big fat rows for the air to pass along, and each row is angled to speed air passage over the row and through the cooler fins...the absolute shizzle. Phoenix Power in Japan use the Apex-i core for their SW20 side mount ICs, they're rare as hens teeth and when I get a few in, they sell for around £600 used! But PP take perfection and improve on it, adding welded oversized pipework from the turbo, enlarged end tanks etc. So infact....Apex-i ftmfw.

Agreed...

You get's what you pay for... Used Blitz cost more than new Autobahn. I'm such a brand whore.

Like I said it's just my opinion... Everyone has an opinion on air flow etc, personally, I believe air flow should be as smooth and unrestricted as possible, no sharp bends, but hey, that 'shortfall' was rectifited on the later coolers. I still say fit a Blitz or similar and see what the car does with one on aswell, group test would be great..

Marc, This is only my opinion, but I'd rule out buying a replica of a cheap IC mate...that narrows your choice down to 2. I know I've said it before and I don't want to start a big debate but I'd not buy any of em, I'd buy an original Blitz, or something that isn't a rough copy of something. I said it last time, even mentioned it to Dave Burwash himself...offered my car as a test bed too. Show me results of a car fitted with these new breed copy coolers and show me the results with the Blitz or similar cooler that's been track tested, researched and proven. I'd bet a fair bit that the copy coolers start to flow like a pile of cack as the boost goes up. Same story happened with the MR2s a few years back, copy coolers started showing up of the Greddy cores, half the price, everyone started buying em...then they did some tests...the copies at normal boost conditions were better than the Greddy, but as the tuning and boost rose, the Greddy left the rest behind. Just my opinion that.