gorganl2000

19 hours ago, Giannis said:

Anyone with experience in this ecu?

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/who-runs-aftermarket-ecus.2718/page-2

may be that tread can be useful about the JAM and other aftermarket ecus

On 2/10/2023 at 12:24 PM, Giannis said:

Thanks for reply

Any management light on?......No

What about performance?....it felt like a modest/moderate upgrade over the stock ecu on pump gas (90/95 ron locally from what i've researched). If you have better gas where you live, then you may get better performance than me

And did you check air fuel mixure?....No

 

 see responses above

i'll give you my experience.

i have an EP91 glanza...it was originally automatic with the 4 pin TPS and 4efte A/T ECU,,, i converted it to manual shortly after buying it and kept the 4 pin TPS and A/T ECU,,,this worked without any issues.

at some point afterwards, i bought a JAM M/T ECU and installed, keeping the 4 pin TPS....the car operated/worked without any issues; however, it would give a code for the TPS whenever i ran a diagnostic.  

i can give my experiences with regards to my car.

on my convert ep91 (automatic to manual)...i was able to run both the stock A/T ecu, the stock M/T ecu and a JAM Racing M/T ecu...the car worked and performed well with each.

Now, the two M/T ecus threw the same code...TPS, which was expected, as the automatic EP91 has a variable TPS while the manual EP91 is non-varibale TPS....this code did not seem to affect performance on my car and in my experience  

what fuel pump size are you running at the moment? and how old is it?

1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

Yeh super gray is very good. 

Also becarful not to block the oil pump bearing return journal it's on the under side of the oil pump a little round port were the oil returns to the sump after passing feeding the pump bearing. 

this is extremely important to remember

i'm not from your region, but i've heard members mention the company Bigg Red  over the years for brake caliper repair/rebuild kits...you should be able to get pistons, rubbers, seals, etc from there if you can get the correct part numbers

do you know if the glanza ep91 steering column would be able to connect with the n/a power steering rack?

would either the n/a or glanza connecting knuckle joint make a difference in helping with the fitment?---

i see two different types joints in this post...so just wondering...though that post was more concerned with PS vs non-PS, which is not my concern here

does anyone know if the the n/a ep91 power steering rack is interchangeable with the glanza ep91 power steering rack?

is it a direct fit, does it require minor mods to work, or will not work at all?

thanks for any feedback

i've had the blue 550/565cc subaru injectors in since 2018...no issues at all

they usually sell very cheap on the subaru/sti forums...a used set cost me around US$100 + shipping back then,  so may be around gbp100 if you get lucky

PS--if you go this route, PLEASE make sure you get genuine ones, they are a LOT of fake cheap chinese ones on ebay

subaru sti 550/565cc injectors also work (pink or dark blue) and have a nice spray pattern

you will need to remove two of the black plastic pieces that are used as spacers on the fuel rail, as they are a little shorter than the stock injectors

this is an option if you can get them cheap

On 9/2/2020 at 1:19 PM, ste91 said:

^ you're right, I'm not chasing power figures, I wanted a 5E for the extra cc for more torque and quicker turbo spool to make it more usable on the road. Seen it so many times over the years people build these 300-400bhp cars with fully stripped interiors etc... then realise that it's awful to drive, a couple of weeks later they're breaking/selling it!

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/goldenvtr-how-it-began-deffo-not-56k-friendly.2902/

scroll about 2/3 down this page and look at the 2 dyno graphs --4efte/td04l and 5efte/tdo4l

6 hours ago, mycars12 said:

A td04 13t on a 5e is basically a ct9 on a 4e

Unless it's a hybrid td04 I would say it would be wasted on a forged build. Hybrid td04 will be about 290whp

it depends on what the owners want from the car...the stock td04l/5e can make decent power for a daily and have a nice power band...can start with the cheap tdo4l and always upgrade later on if required

having personally run a td04l on a 5e, i'd say go with that, it was a great daily drive...lots of response and torque for the stock rev limit (7200 rpm). you get spool early 2000/2500rpm, decent boost by 3000/4000rpm...and tapers off around 5500/6500 rpm in time for the limiter to kick in....it feels like a much improved monster version of the stock 4efte/ct9 set up

if you plan to rev to 8,000/9000 rpm on the forge 5e, then the stock td04l is not for you

based on the description of the tf035, i'd say the td04l is better suited to the 5e out of the two

this was used in the earlier days, especially in jamaica.

i'm not sure if its still popular now

the acis intake manifold is a decent option if you set it up properly

On 7/1/2020 at 12:41 PM, snails ep91 said:

@Claymore thanks for your input its much appreciated. I was looking to ut 205's all round for extra trye to the ground. 

maybe ill consider using spacers on front as a trial further down the line then see if I get on with it.

But yes it these will be for a spare set of track wheels i have and will be used for track days only.

Anyone else have experience with 205/15's on glanza and either ad08r's or the nankang ar-1's/toyo r888s??

i run 205/50r15 on my glanza for along time now...i had to raise the car using the coilovers and i had the rear fender lips trimmed to reduce any rubbing from the tires

kumho ku36

i found these helped a bit with traction (less wheel spin) compared to the 195/50/15s i ran prior

i don't track my car though

https://www.vulcantire.com/ecstaxsku36_t.htm

those are the specs

do you still have any glanza side skirts?

19 hours ago, lukEp said:

I've not used the 3 bolts for 5years and it's never leaked. It's a 5e so unless I drill and tap the block they don't have the 3 bolt holes anyway

i've done the same on the 5Es since 2007/2008...never had a leak as well

i'm not sure with regards to how things will work with the new angle/location you propose  

On 4/9/2020 at 6:48 AM, bailiff666 said:

Looking for some advise 

I've contacted TTE performance known as Tongs turbo and they offer me two options :

- td04l ball bearing turbo in ct9 turbine housing 900euro

- td04l ball bearing turbo in td04l turbine housing 800euro

I know Tongs turbos are known as the best CT9 hybrids but are they still the best and worth to spend that money?

Would't be better to buy Hybrid turbo from Race-Tech,Midlands Turbo,TD etc.

I know TD04 kits are much cheaper but i rather go for CT9 hybrid.

Appreciate any advise. 

 

i'm not sure how effective td04l internals would be in a ct9 turbine housing, the ct9 housing is fairly restrictive even for a stock ct9 and hi-flow/hybrid ct9

are there any dyno graphs for these turbos, specs, etc? again, there is not a lot of information to go here so its hard to make an informed decision

may be just a regular hybrid ct9 could be investigated if they have that option, these work nicely on the 4efte once you are not chasing crazy hp number and want a nice daily driver.

if going anything td04l, i'd suggest you get a full td04l set up (manifold, d/pipe, td04l with its exhaust housing, etc) or even run a tf035 if you want something that is like a hybrid ct9 but should probably flow better top end wise and make a few more hp

is it possible to swap the entire 4efe throttle body  over to the 4efte manifold as a direct bolt on?...if so, that may save you some trouble

can you ream out the holes on the bracket a bit to give you tome wiggle room?

3 hours ago, Calum122 said:

Also, if the turbo had failed, then there is bound to be oil left over in the inlet tract etc, so maybe it's just that clearing itself.

 

that part is important, residual oil in the exhaust and intake piping could lead to some smoking for a little while, but should clear up after a drive. 

maybe you can get a local exhaust shop to customize the piping to fit a similar size universal box in the space

i'm not too clued with electronic stuff, but sam44 seems to know a bit about this area....if further advice is needed, then i'd suggest you drop Stu and RobSR  peronsal messages

its looking good...😎

could i make a suggestion?! could you consider putting some sort of rubber/silicone protection between the top tank of the radiator and the the car/chassis metal piece just in front of it? it looks quite close and may touch during hard driving....these aluminium radiators are quite soft and could easily develop a hole