gorganl2000

looking good as usual stu

and the data is good to see

which gearbox are you using---ratios and final drive

i'd suggest WEPR/Sacha

they make great stuff...i've used them twice over the past decade and never had a problem with either MS or SS turbo kits

and from my experience their before and after sales service is great as well----the latter is very important in this day and age

try a post in the wanted section

+1 for bean's comments

on a side note, these ep82/91 handbrakes were never the best even when in good condition. I try to keep mine on decent condition as well, but i've long given up on them locking properly, especially on slopes---i'd advice you keep something close-by to prop the car in hills even if you park in a gear, or learn to run fast and dive through the car window for quick entry like dukes of hazzard 

i'd suggest you drop Stu a PM...he's very knowledgeable about that kind of stuff

On 10/26/2018 at 10:47 AM, daniel_g said:

The JD ones are fine with me. All poly ones vibrate.

Best bet would be to make your own with a very low shore rating. But mine never even set so didnt fit them, long in the bin.

I was trying to make very near solid ones.

i did my new rear trd one a long time ago...you have to make sure its absolutely clean before you apply the polyurethane

i think i wiped it down with lacquer thinners before i started ---to get rid of any grease/oil/film

could have been around 10 years its been on now...last i checked recently, the polyurethane has "separated/unglued" on each side from the main mount, but are still in perfect condition, so i just push both pieces back in place on both sides ( they now act like inserts...lol)  

from memory, brownish ones on the intake side and silver on the exhaust side

hopefully others can confirm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=toyota+48750-16100&_sacat=0

just get them pressed out at the machine shop...nothing special needed, just a little care

you are more likely to damage a piston/ringland than a rod getting them pressed out

just a side question...what's the wheel spacing on a starlet?--somehow 4x100 comes to mind, while you have 4 x 114???

just putting this option out there if you can't find any ready made ones to match your needs...you could always get stock ones and pack them with polyurethane ..it comes in different grades, so you can choose to suit your needs

lots of information/vids on the net on how to go about this

i suspect he's referring to the rod under the dashboard that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder

but i'm sure he will respond to you soon enough  

i've ran both...MS lasted 10 years (and was still in good condition)...now i have on a SS.......both made by WEPR/Sacha and no problems whatsoever with either

if you have good quality SS, then it will last and as said above, will look better.........make sure to brace whichever you get,if it doesn't already come braced

PS...the manual says to add the block number and the crankshaft number to determine the correct main bearing size for each journal

there are 5 numbers stamped on the crankshaft as well

part of the reason may be that many persons don't use that specific set up....i've seen members using celica st202 and levin twin pot set ups and st185 single pot set ups more so

however, i'm not aware of the celica st185 twin pot set up and whats required to make it work on the starlet-----hence a possible reason for the silence on the matter from the forum

the only inserts people have run in the past are from Koni,,,that's probably why no one has responded, as they don't know

yeah,,,to add to robsr,,,you need to maintain the balance between bogging the car and wheel spin

some moderate clutch slip, suspension set up, good tires, track prep, etc all will play a part.....but its something you should get better at with more experience

why not research megasquirt if going the cheaper route?...it's been around for a while now

i'm no tuner, but some people have used them in the past...best to ask for their experiences on the starlet

maybe useful to you

all the best in your new endeavors sir

i'll give you some advice.

take out those bigger cc injectors and put back in the stock injectors---i'd supspect your car is running very very rich with the blitz and larger injectors as it is right now

turn the aftermarket FPR down to stock pressure or reinstall the stock fpr...either option should work

take your car to a tuner/dyno and get it checked/tuned properly---this will determine your safe boost/map

try to get rubber bump stoppers

i find the composite/yellow ones tend to disintegrate much faster than the rubber over time 

front wheel bearings tend to last a very long time

i'd suggest you check your suspension parts, alignment and/hubs to see if there is any excessive wear/movements

i think the stock radiator cap is 0.9, but may be someone else can confirm

this is why i went with TRD engine mounts ages ago...based on reports, they fall somewhere in the middle of stock and polybushes.

i've no issues with excessive vibration and they seem to have held up well over the years, but i'm not sure if they are still available on the market.

i'll give you some options that have been discussed in the past:

1) get genuine stock mounts and fill the gearbox one with polyurethane (you can fill the other 2 mounts afterwards if you need them firmer and depending on how your car feels), i'd also suggest an engine torque damper to brace the engine at the top

2) get trd mounts and run as is at first to see how you like them, if you want more stiffness, then you can fill the rear one with polyurethane, then the 2 side ones as you desire. again i suggest an engine torque damper

3) i've heard they are different stiffness polybushes available, remove the ones you have now and try softer grade polybushes