gorganl2000
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Posts posted by gorganl2000
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I've read many a post on the various starlet forums over the years and seen many views/approaches/opinions/combinations. I've spoken to many people ("experts", average joes, backyard specialists, performance enthusiasts, etc.). I've seen many posts and sometimes dyno results with head porting/polishing, uprated cams, valve work, uprated spings, adjustable cam gears and various combinations.
1) And here's my take when it comes to the 4e/5e head. For the most part and average build, i'd leave it alone. It seems to give you 350bhp++ in some set ups, can rev to 7500/7600rpm (some even risk 8000rpm max but i'm not sure if that may induce more valve float?!?) , gives good drive-ability throughout the rev range. I suppose our engines are pretty old now and in some cases the heads need a decent refresh (valves and stems cleaned/checked for tolerances, valves seated properly, valve stem seals changed, inlet/exhaust cam lobes checked to make sure they are within spec, valve/cam clearances checked and adjusted as needed, etc.). A decently rebuild oem spec head actually performs quite well (no oil or air/vacuum leaks),,,i'd guess it would satisfy many builds from ct9 to td05 sized turbos
2) now saying that, i do think the stock heads can be further improved IF done properly ---remove casting marks, minor port and polish work to match manifolds. again, this is not massive head work i'm talking about yet. And it should not cost you an arm and a leg to get it done. If you are handy and have the tools some persons risk doing it themselves, but its usually best left to people who know what they are doing or if you are lucky enough to get guidance from such persons.
3) now for the serious racers/builders looking to get every ounce of power out of the car, i'd say 350/400bhp +++ and high revs (8000/9000rpm). This is where all the above head work comes into play and for sure you should get an expert to undertake this work because it needs to be perfect, no room for errors with larger valves, angle cuts, port and polish and flow tested, uprated springs/valves/cams in combination.
4) i've noted a few "backyard" people do seriously modified heads with good/great results, but it usually does not turn out well for many who try it. Also, the people who usually got it done after much trial and error and/or from years of experience in the area don't usually tell you their "secrets"
so imo, options 1 and 2 are for the average builds, while options 3 and 4 are for the serious projects
PS - on a side note and maybe a separate tread, sometimes and i repeat sometimes persons install massive short runner aftermarket intake manifolds and massive throttle bodies that are not well suited to their modest builds (ct9, tf/td04/vf3x/vf2x/td05 running 0.5-1.5bar) which shifts the power band to the right (higher in the rev range) and then "erroneously" determine that head work is needed to correct the issues. No, its not, your inlet manifold may look pretty/blingy, but its not suitable for your set up, may be revert to the stock manifold or a proven aftermarket manifold which will work with your set up.
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https://www.slideshare.net/pacovico/motor-5e
that's for the 5e, but its what i've used to rebuild both the 4e and 5e engines in the past
torque specs are near the back of the document
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On 10/22/2017, 10:27:26, ramses said:
he takes a lot of time to understand this , he wants to go too fast ( i can understand that ) ... he's now understanding that tuning is not only putting afr on table , but a kind of reliability as our fuel can vary from 91 to 97 ron
its all about optimizing the set up
everything takes time to do it properly....will save troubles later on.
if your gas quality varies so much, it might be better if you are on the conservative side ignition wise
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On 10/13/2017, 1:06:33, nano said:
my friend is ramses and I think you know him as well.
yeah he should be able to give you tons of guidance. very experienced with these cars
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from past reports, this feature did not work for members, they ended up having to tune emu from scratch basically---i've only recall one member that said they got it to work, but i cant remember who it was at this moment
do you have a wide-band connected to the emu?---i suppose this is a prerequisite for autotune to work?!
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can the steering rack boot on our cars be changed using that "bag & grease" approach to cover the tie rod end and then slide the new boot over the bag?---basically not removing the tie rod end and needing to get a wheel alignment afterwards.
like in that vid
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sounds that way
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18 hours ago, Batters said:
Was it these? All I'm after is when it's time to change my disks I don't want to have to machine them every time
how regular do you think you will be changing discs?....will this be strictly a track car?
apart form that discs should last a very long time
and 260 vs 277mm could be a notable difference ...even if they fit the same
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i'd say if you know someone that is reputable, then just try to get a second hand head in good shape (probably replace valve stem seals--OEM and re-seat valves for piece of mind) and put it on
another option is to take off the head and get the area welded back properly IF its the stud area---i've seen this done in the past...and use back your existing head
they are known to crack around the top stud on the 4th cylinder holding the exhaust manifold...especially if torqued incorrectly
PS if you do any kind of head rebuild...please use OEM parts (valve stem seals, head gasket, exhaust gasket, etc) they will cost a bit more than generic stuff, but should last longer
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23 hours ago, maddox710 said:
If I had a built motor again I'd go for the ball bearing vf24 or newer 34
it seems to be a decent turbo,,,but my main issue with it at the time was cost/benefit.
the vf34 was more expensive than the vf35/vf28, as its ball bearing, was slightly laggier based on the subaru forums (200/300rpm) BUT cost a fair bit more as it was ball bearing
it only made marginally more power than a vf35, again according to the subaru forums, again negligible
so for all intents and purposes on a 5e/4e engine, the vf35/vf28 seemed the cheaper option to make roughly the same power with slightly better spool or almost the same as 200rpm is negligible maybe,,, in comparison to the vf34
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with 315cc you should hardly notice any difference...maybe very slightly richer...but stock 4efte ecu should be able to control these
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i've done tons of research on vf and td turbos over the years...so many choices smh...lol
and i kind of group theses turbos together td05/vf28/vf35....then marginally behind is vf34....then vf30.........in terms of response/lag
and you can probably flip that order around in terms of total power output
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You should get a vf24 on there and do a log I'd love to know. I loved how quick it was compared to the billet td05 which was on the car before. At least 1000rpm earlier with butt dyno
vf24 is p18 housing ( bigger than vf35)...vf35 is P15 housing
taken from ebay
IHI RHF5HB Ball Bearing SUBARU STI VF24 VF28 VF29 Turbocharger.
Wheel Spec
- Inducer Diameter : 45.4mm
- Exducer Diameter : 60mm
- Trim : 57
- Total Height : 31.25
- Bore Diameter: 6.08
- 6+6 Blade
Application
- IHI RHF55 VF30, VF35, VF37
Spec- 46.5 / 59.95 mm (Inducer / Exducer Dia)
Total Hub Length
- 34.1 mm
Hole dia. for shaft
- 6.1 mm
same 6+6 design
vf35 has 1.1mm bigger inducer compressor wheel than vf24 and a bigger compressor housing possibly
two interesting turbos
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great to hear goldenvtr...the vf35 is an excellent turbo for the 5e
its almost like it was built for it
...makes decent power, decent spool, decent price and you can run 20/22psi...and even maybe the odd 25psi from my past research... 
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i had this issue in the past with emu and larger injectors
so i had the ignition map and fuel map adjusted in the low rpm/vacuum range and that helped a lot...i suspect there was some "fighting" between the stock ecu and emu in my case at low rpms
with a full standalone you should be able to tweak it a bit with total precision
i'm not a tuner, so i cant speak with any conviction, but maybe at low rpm excessive ignition is not so good when the engine is naturally trying to cruise/slow-down---hence the jerking effect, as you are slowing down the car, while the ignition setting is trying to keep the engine going forward
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not saying with any certainty, but it may be something to do with the igition/fuel maps at those low rpm
how aggressive is your timing around the low rpm (1000 - 2500rpm) while in vacuum?
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by any chance do both of you run standalone or piggyback,,,running any bigger injectors than stock?
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if its working then it illuminates when you get by the "E" dash or just a little under.
from testing it, iirc it still has about 7 litres in it at this point
the guage is operated by a resistor type float which is attached to the fuel pump assembly like in this pic
they have been known to go bad over the years...and yours may need replacing
or could be the bulb on the guage cluste ris bad or broken connection---you would have to test all these possibilities
and yes, the last "half" of the gas goes quicker than the first "half" due to the shape of the tank...so half way is not really a true half volume
to the best of my knowledge it seem the ep91 has a 40/45 litre sized tank
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yeah...i've done it a few times now...if i had to try to take a guess, i'd say 1.8 - 1.9 liters to be closer
if you put in 2 liters with the car jacked up at the front, when you lower the jack and level the car, a small amount would flow out the "level hole"
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Tuning developments do a td05 billet turbo, just wondering what that would be like at 1bar, anyone know the spool times on them?
standard engine...1 bar
given those two criteria, i'd suggest you stick with the td04 or similar size
a td05 of any sort would be most likely inefficient on that set up
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gearbox is just under 2 liters
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i've ran hawk pads with stock grooved/dimpled discs...no problems at all
i now run celica st202 set up with astra slotted/drilled discs with ebc red pads
both set ups using dot4 brake fluid and braided brake lines----these two things made a huge difference
imo, its really just to get decent pads/braided lines/brake fluid AND break in the pads as stated and even for a little longer if you can
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i bought a greddy kit for that exact reason...fit my ep91 perfectly
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?20735-FMIC-comparisons-King-thread
there is a lot of information on kits and pictures (hopefully still) in this tread
with a custom kit it can be done, just takes a bit more effort and you have to be careful with the core size
EP91 - Juddering in 1st gear
in Engines
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ran a diagnostic? codes?