gorganl2000

sometimes the numbers on the back of the caliper also tell the size...then you can also verify with the vernier

automatic glanza tps is variable....for sure

manual maybe on/off

what's printed on the back of your caliper?

38T25

or

40T28

anything along those lines??

they are different twin pot set ups....levin, st202, st185, etc....different piston sizes

and you can measure the caliper space itself where the pistons fit....so you have all you need to get the correct size

just finished a fresh 5e buid after having my car engineless for abour 4 years and sods law theres a problem :|

basically i was looking for a few other opinions on what it could be

i suspect valve noise but cant pinpoint this... ive measured the clearances and although there not perfect surly they shouldn't cause this kinda noise??

0.15mm is inlet shim clearance spec (+.0.03mm) and biggest to smallest is 0.22 and 0.25

0.25 is exhuast spec and biggest to smallest is 0.22 -0.29

so i deffo need a reshim (something i neglected to concider when i lapped the valves)

(need to confrim specs as 5e manual says 0.2 in and 0.3 ex?

or am i missing somthing?

in a nutshell:

forged 5e pauter rods, weisco -10cc pistons

0.5mm headgasket

head and block skimed/decked 0.2mm and 0.4mm

lapped vales, new stem seals

compression ratio should be close to 9:1

i have 195psi bang on compression on all 4 cylnders when hot

note, the 5e came out of a running paseo i owned so i know it was perfect before all the work

EDIT:

after a quick (test) by putting petrolium jelly under each bucket to see how it affected the noise... read further down for more info

hey goldenvtr...i just realised something

the 5e manual says

Ya but your on about the head not the block. My head is standard. Inlet manifold is standard.

I've ran verious setups and still do.

Never had a head gasket or bottom end issue.

i agree..the stock head gasket can take quite a beating once your car is properly built and tuned.

i actually prefer it to many of the popular/branded MLS ones out there

you have two choice 52 and 56. the TF is a decent substitute. will spool 200rpms quicker. but the GT20(56) will give you more power. given the cost and ease of replacement..the TF is a good choice I think. TF looses efficiency after 1.2bar or so. if you get tired of TF..you can always move up the ladder to td04 or VF on the same manifold/downpipe. Gt20 has same T25 inlet flange. so its possible to go up to gt25/gt28 on gt20 manifold (lots of power potential),but you will need a new downpipe.

hope this info helps.

so true, the Subaru flanges give you nearly 15/20 stock turbos to choose from depending on your needs

This is a statement I will never understand.

Keep things simple and use the car, a car with half the horsepower that actually sees the track, is still 100% faster than one that sits in a shed being built to be different.

i agree, keep it simple and cost within reason

https://www.google.com/search?q=toyota+ep91+glanza+cluster&rlz=1C1VASU_enBB536BB536&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiTxZukiKzUAhUDSSYKHYXSDrEQsAQIJA&biw=1366&bih=662

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-Starlet-Glanza-EP91-Turbo-AT-Instrument-Cluster-Speedometer-Gauge-OEM/112262318863

imagines all over the net

I have had a TD04 on my Glanza before. I have a few kicking around as I have two Scoobys.

The Glanza is going to be my track car (to save STI from getting smahshed up lol) so I am looking for a fast responcive turbo.

I will be building a forge engine in due course as I have just finished forge builds on the scoobys the pockets took a hit but I will be doing the Glanza within a few months. Just forked out on AD08Rs whiteline roll bars bcs and polybushes.

And from what I'm reading about this GT20 it would be ideal. BUT what spec Gt20's do you guys use ? It seems like it's a diesel turbo what what I'm gathering ?

I found a gt2052 but doesn't look like the one guys are running on here ?

seriously, check out the tf035, a few members on here seem to love them response wise and they seem to make just under what td04l will make power wise....so overall a really nice turbo for modest power goals and very cheap....just do some research into the tf035 before you invest in the gt20 (yes, its probably a very good turbo, but expensive)

also with the tf035 you can mess about with different exhaust housings to improve power or spool

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/101995-tdo4l-13t-tfo35hm-hybrid/?hl=tf035#entry1182883

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/102072-tdtfo-numbers-and-digits-explanation/?hl=tf035#entry1186106

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/58000-kbonds-white-gt-engines-back-in/?hl=tf035#entry839966

read kbond's experience,,,see pg 3 for dyno

The disk and carries are fine because it fit the otherside perfect it just that one side where it rubs hence y i think it could be the beari

based on this, i think something is amiss with the side that is rubbing as well,,,check out the problem side carefully---any hub changes?

if it was the set up, most likely both sides would have an issue

for what yu said...maybe the tf035 (slightly smaller than tdo4l) is a great cheaper option for you

are yuo dead set on a garret gt20?

Is it possible to use a engine of a ep91 glanza on a ep82 straight swap?

yes...as collin said

maybe temp sensor is going bad?...is the wire connection good?

any diagnostic codes?

from what i can tell

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/n1lz/media/IMG_4078.png.html

this look very much like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-96-Toyota-Camry-OEM-front-brake-calipers-with-brackets-V6/201600115593

got to the 3rd pic and zoom in to compare

will do, but had figured someone in here might have known off the top

do anyone have the torque specs and sequence to install these bolts?

ARP 8740 3/8"

i believe i just ran mine as it came with factory settings

smh...i would have bought these

only now seen the post...i need to pay more attention to the sales section

If you going to cut up any inlet. Look at the Corolla one. For a bolt on 10bhp. 85ps instead of 75ps....

Id say the corolla one is a bit small too.

Cant see why it wouldn't work tho.

http://www.tercelreference.com/tercel_info/component_library/intake_manifolds.jpg

are you referring to the 5th manifold counting from the left?

if so, i'm not sure how easy it would be to flip around and rejoin given the pipe/runner work

i do agree it would be nice on a n/a engine torque wise though

i think you would need to take the "offset" into account if you did cut...as the plenum would now be likely further away from the head when flipped around and i'm not sure how much space you are working with in relation to the "side" of the bonnet---assuming you fixed the touching at the top of the bonnet

i'd prefer you weld it in place too...instead of the silicone joiners

as morgey said, the throttle bodies sound like a good option for you

at the stock rev limit the 5efhe rods should be fine....

what is the purpose of your build/car?

i've seen them ran up to 20/21psi with a good tune

piston diameter

sounds like cracked piston ringlands...by the looks of it cylinders 1, 3 and 4

stock?...or modified?...how modified?

what plugs are in it at the moment?

do a diagnostic first----any codes?

check MAP, knock and TPS sensors and their connections

i use a genuine sard fpr kit and fittings from rhdjapan...got it years ago, i'd guess 10 years ago

i've never had an issue with it to date...so i'd suggest IF you do get one, to get a proper brand..its not something that you want to go bang as that could spell costly damage

the alternative case, as daniel g said, stick with the stock fpr, they work quite well and if you have the proper management, correct size injectors, etc...then you will be fine

whatever you do, avoid fake fpr and other such fake items in general