gorganl2000

Some of the oem synchros are now discontinued?---iirc its either 2nd or 3rd gear?!?!

cool...hope you get it sorted

i'd suggest you check your grounding for the aem guage...i've had this exact problem before with my innovate af meter reading one thing and my emu reading something else when the grounding somehow came a little loose

sometimes behind the clutch fork where it pivots can need some grease as well

Be fine.standard ecu fuels a td04 at 0.8 bar fine

yeah, i think fuel wise he will be fine, as the stock ecu runs rich anyways and on that size turbo with decent gas the stock ecu should handle ignition fine as well

for me, the main issue i think he will have is hitting boost cut on the odd occasion with a 0,8 bar spring

if your gas quality is good i suppose that the stock ecu should handle your plans up to boost cut....so you are looking at around 11/12psi boost max.

however, i can foresee problems with boost cut if you get spikes on the odd occasion with the decat, short ram, cold nights

may be safer your run at maybe 10 psi or you will need exceptional boost control---that 0.8bar spring may be cutting it a bit too close for comfort with the stock boost cut

what exactly went on your bottom end?

several good points have been raised above and i'd add my two cents here as well

i'm from the Caribbean (Barbados) and I've realized over the last 18 years that starlet "tuning/development" has come a long way from its more humble beginnings. I've also realized that different places/cultures do things differently and of course nothing is wrong with that. I don't look at the limits of the stock engine in terms of bhp/boost/revs per say, though those things obviously play a critical role in what the engine can indeed take. Also, dyno figures make it hard to compare as dynos can read differently across the various regions, in fact even within the same areas as seen sometimes on this said forum.

Now i agree with the premise that tuning plays a critical role in what an engine will make and how long it will last. A freshly and properly rebuilt 4e/5e engine should be fairly reliable for some decent horse power 200 - 300hp, even more as Stu indicated and last for a long time if properly maintained and driven rationally. If you are going to blast it to the rev limiter every time you get into it and track it for 10 laps regularly then you should reasonably expect its life to be severely limited...even forged engines can be destroyed easily with that kind of usage.

A conservative/safe tune with smooth ignition curve, decent afrs, gradual boost loads over the rpms, along with a good cooling system, within spec oil clearances on a properly refreshed engine or existing healthy engine should see you make nice power on the stock engine. A proper tune inclusive of knock detection is imperative, the stock engine will not take knock very well and will break easily especially at higher rpm/boost. i've seen stock engines last long with bigger turbo set ups and supporting mods/tune and i've seen them fail spectacularly with the same set ups and no/bad tunes. It's a thin line so you have to be careful.

Similarly to the old Jamaica 300whp tread on ttgt, i've seen a fair number of local builds use stock engines over the years to make decent power. Unless chasing massive power and high rpms, persons don't usually forge from the onset here. Similar has been observed in the other Caribbean islands as well (T&T, Antigua, etc). May be its based on the premise to see how far the stock engine will go before it pops, THEN forge, who knows?!?!

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?52987-300whp-Jamaica-style

for sure, technology, knowledge, better gas, proven examples, etc, have given the starlet community the ability to surpass past limits---within reason

check alternator, as well as wiring loom and grounding for any breaks

thanks morgey and stu

.

PS ---there will be no revving till bust lolol

hail all,

how accurate is the stock rev counter?

the stock rev limit is supposed to be 7200rpm so in theory the stock ecu enforces the rev limiter (fuel cut) at this point and the stock rev counter should reads the same 7200rpm

are persons with stock set up noticing any difference on their oem rev counters?

i know some of you have standalones/piggyback installed, so i'm wondering if your stock/oem rev counters and management logs read the exact same rpms as well?

if there is a rpm difference, how much is the rpm difference?

does this difference worsen as the rpms get higher or remain the same throughout the rev range?

if you are unsure, may be better to change the 2 seals and oil pump.....while you are there, you can inspect/change the water pump, timing belt and 2 tensioners

the 280 will rub on carier just so slightly indeed 1.5mm needs cutting of unless you file the holes a bit !!!!!!!! or dril oversize by 1mm on the mounting holes the warp from frill clears it then thats how i did the last set on friends car

we never machined the inside pcd face neither hes still flying around

do you mean drilling/over-sizing the 4 stud holes by 1mm??

but if you use a spigot ring, will this make a difference?...as the disc would still sit exactly centre? or am i missing something?

yeah, i took a quick look yesterday....the 3.0mm needs to come off each disc, else the disc will rub on the carrier as Colin 5e stated

another possible option, which i'm not sure about is to slightly grind/lathe the carrier itself by 1.5mm for make room for the 280mm discs...but again i'm not sure if this would structurally weaken the carrier

1.5mm could be a lot in terms of radius on a disc,,,but who knows....maybe i should have tried them at 280mm when i had the chance....i just followed the forum information and took them to the machine shop to be adjusted to 277mm when i got them

next time i'm messing with the brakes i'll try to remember to take a closer look at the spacing

it would surely save a few dollars and time if they could be used at 280mm

i'm not sure about the leak from the picture, but the oil pump is the "silver piece" between the black plastic cover and the engine block

to the best of my knowledge no air should come from the DV until you are boosting and come off the gas pedal and the DV does its job of "venting"

collin 5e i researched that topic a while back...tons of reading and got no conclusive answers...lol

some people mentioned slight flow and "spool/boost noise" differences, but it all seemed negligible at the end of the day

i think there is even a 7+7 in there some where too..iirc...lol

St202 brakes

280mm astra discs and a spigot ring

Instant 280mm brake upgrade

Or you can replace the single pot st202 calipers with ae111 twinpots but use the st202 carriers. Again same disc bolt up and 280mm brakes

post #13 shows some wiring for ep91 3 plug

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/27821-socks-2zz-ge-turbo-glanza-v/

http://www.toyotazone.co.za/howitworks/how-a-computer-controls-an-engine/

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/EP82wiring/EP82%20Starlet%20Wiring%20and%20Connectors.pdf

that's probably of little help to you, but its the most comprehensive wiring diagram i've seen for the 4efte 2 plug

Are JAM Racing ECU's any good seen some for sale for around 400 or would it be better to stick to Emb?

I run a silent type and it only really gives a small jingle when you rev the engine! Idle is completely silent! When you change gear you get a small jingle aswell but nothing major!

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this i could live with ...lol

very cool vid

congrat lionel

have you changed your hand brake set up?

did you run a diagnostic?....if you haven't then you should...sounds like ignition issue regarding the misfire---distributor, coil, igniter, plugs, leads

do you get any blue smoke on first morning start up?

a friend of mine runs one in his ep82...the noisy one...he has had it for years now and its held up quite well to this day.

for sure when you press the clutch it makes a very "metallic" sound which always attracts the attention of those closeby (pedestrians and drivers in traffic...lol)

i personally dont like the noise, but you have options in that area and its a personal preference....and also, imo, it feels a bit on the racey/stiff side, but still drive-able if you can live with that

apart from those things, its a quality clutch and i'd recommend it if your budget can afford.