gorganl2000
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Posts posted by gorganl2000
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only now seeing your post...i think its from the toyota celica gt4
i remember the post on ttgt, its supposed to have a faster refresh rate and work with the stock ecu....open element i think
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5efe bottom end?....have you ever checked to see which rods are in there?...if it's the thinner 5efe rods, then back in the day persons have reportedly ran a maximum of 10/12psi....some persons have reportedly found the thicker 5efhe rods in some 5efe engines, but all that is just what i've read over the years
i can for sure say that the thicker 5efhe rods hold up very well at higher boost levels with a decent tune.
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i'll say it again...very clean project
i can't imagine the time and effort that goes on behind the scenes to reach this stage
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i rate this member/seller very highly
excellent communication and was willing to ship overseas---even made sure to find the best rates
the item itself was in very good condition
i would 100% do business again
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On 4/14/2018, 12:55:08, akyakapotter said:
I would while its off it makes sense. you don't have to just check for wear. just remember not to over tighten when you refit or you will destroy the bearings.
cheers nick
that last part is very important...don't overtighten
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its always about sharing on the forums
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just to update
Subaru top feed injectors from 2002+ wrx and 2007+ sti will fit our 4e/5e fuel rails
make sure to get all the subaru specific seals/o-rings with the injectors when you buy them or better yet, replace with new Subaru specific seals/o-rings (3 on each injector)
the electrical connectors are the same and they are high imp
you will need to remove the black plastic spacers from the starlet fuel rail and just use the two metal spacers only, as the Subaru injectors are shorter
you will need to cut the two fuel rail bolts or buy new ones (65mm - 75mm)
the car will need to be tuned for sure, the spray pattern is said to be better than the older style madza gtx/rx7 360cc, 460cc and 550cc injectors
these injectors can be bought "used" for very reasonable prices off the various Subaru forums and eBay, i'd suggest taking them to be fully services, cleaned and flow tested to make sure they are working prpoerly---i'd strongly suggest buying genuine injectors and avoiding cheap knockoffs
now this gives members more options to choose from and depending on what your want to achieve with your car---information taken from the nasioc website
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1218460
Is there a list of top feed injector sizes for the 2002+ WRX and 2007+ STI?
OEM 2002-2005 WRX 420 cc
JDM STi "pinks" 550 cc
OEM 2006+ WRX 560 cc (also known as "blues")
OEM 2007+ STI 560 cc
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http://greddy.com/upload/file/e-manage-part1.pdf
http://greddy.com/upload/file/e-manage_Blue_Install.pdf
those are the two most detailed i could find....i run EMU, but i dont have the setting with me and i'm not sure its the same as EMB
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that has in the pictures
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14 hours ago, Shyam said:
aah okay, that makes sense mate. is it two pins on the harness or just the one?
its two pins...you have to use the correct ones, as the automatic harness has a few wires/pins to it
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i'd strongly suggest you get some DIY det cans made up or some kind of knock detection device along with a good wideband/afr guage before you even starting any tuning
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we just put some "spades" on the two reverse switch wires and plugged them into the automatic harness.
i dont have MOT here, but its been that way from 2006 and no issues really
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yeah...that makes two of us and a whole lot of people on the internet....lol
if EMU/EMB are still being manufactured, then a software upgrade would be useful.
i suppose with the reasonably priced standalone options, piggybacks are not as popular as before
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well, this is a bit different, but anyways,
i purchased a part from him, but the transaction got messed up with the international shipping (NO fault of his).
after trying to help me out as best he could, he ended up giving me a refund.
throughout the entire deal his communication was excellent and he went above and beyond to try to assist me
so positive feedback for this member
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well,,,what i ended up doing was buying a used laptop with windows XP on it-----older compatible software, i can't remember up to what windows year/version works now (maybe vista)
on my newer windows 7/8 (at the time), even when i tried a partition set up based on what an IT friend recommended, it did not work/communicate/connect
i could open the greddy program, but i couldn't do anything else on the newer windows based laptop ...no suitable drivers
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3 hours ago, daniel_g said:
I rate the exedy 3 puk.
this i've seen before, to me its kind of on/off and on the aggressive side...though it holds decent power/torque.
i suppose it would be similar to the 4/6puks then?
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it seems so difficult to find that clutch set up between a heavy duty pressure plate/sprung organic clutch and the heavy duty pressure plate/sprung 6 puk clutch....that is still driveable daily/traffic, easy on the transmission, no noise, wont eat through your flywheel, wont bend your fork
that's another issue i observed over the years,,,some persons with those extremely hard pressure plates and twin plate set ups, end up with bent/snapped clutch forks down the road and broken throw out bearings
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22 hours ago, 5e colin said:
i have a spec fitted fucking cunt of a yoke but does it job well never slips
CONS
jurks hard if the revs are to low on take off
wont release out of second gear on plenty of occasions
ENGAGEMENT somethimes launches the car forwards when not wanted
but hey its ok you get used to it ha ha
3 hours ago, Mk3 silver gt said:I'll second that, if I known it would be like that I would of got a orc or or os giken instead. I'm not really a fan of spec clutches now
is this just the spec brand or just really common among these 6 or 4 puk clutches in general? ..i was hoping the sprung centre would have negated a significant amount of that shaking/judder
knowing me, i'd have a major issue with any excessive juddery and noise, especially as i'd probably be in traffic of some nature on almost any drive i take
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8 hours ago, T-dog said:
I’v had two comp Clutches stage 4 sprung in both my Glanza over the years from idworkz and they both been great . Little bit of a bastard in long traffic jams but other then that they are good . The one thing I would do is put a genuine release bearing in though and bin the comp one off as they get noisy quick
Toby
tnx colin and t-dog
what the exact issue with traffic t-dog?
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also, what's the difference between the CC stage 4 part numbers 16055-1620 and 16080-1620
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i'm hoping to get some members' experiences on these two clutch set ups which are supposed to handle 300bhp etc based on my readings here and generally.
basically both kits consist of a performance pressure plate, sprung 6 puk clutch disc, bearing and alignment tool
really just two different brands i suppose
now i'm trying to find out how they would feel in a daily driven car?---juddery?...stock or hard gear engagement?...stock/moderate/hard pedal feel?....any installation problems?....how long have you been running thme (km/miles)?
Anyone know the torque ratings of these two kits?
i'd prefer something that feels as close to stock as possible, well within reason given they are uprated
i was also looking at the CC stage 3, but not sure about its longevity at higher torque
all views welcomed
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all those turbos mentioned, and a few others, will get you 300bhp.
LSD will help a lot as Gainzy said....but there will be no avoiding wheel spin at that power level, more of a case of trying to minimise it
and i agree with Gainzy again somewhat, but would add maybe 225-275 bhp as a decent starlet. Once you start approaching 300bhp it gets more intense
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as you have the Subaru flange manifold, then td05 16g, vf35, vf34, vf28,----or equivalent billet hybrid to these items.
items you can save on by continuing to use the oem parts----fuel rail and "maybe" rrfpr...the stock ones work fine
if going with emanage, i'd recommend emanage ultimate...its an improvement on the blue and not much more cost wise
Calling all ye olde members!!
in Electronics
Posted
i think the guy did have some little niggles with the stock ecu and idle using this faster iat sensor
its a bummer the ttgt is down...such a wealth of knowledge
and i've always heard the stock one was kind of slow to respond, but when datalogging it appears to do a decent job for me
but maybe the faster response ones will just do an even better job??--i don't know