gorganl2000

check map sensor and connections

have you done a diagnostic test?..any code?

sounds like you need an auto-electrician

11 hours ago, morgey said:

The knocking on the BC will likely be the nut on top of the pillow ball, mine and a couple of others have came loose before and caused a knocking.

different brand coil-overs for me, but same experience...i try to double check these 2 nuts every few months now

22 hours ago, SpoonalTap said:

Can anyone confirm if it's the single pot or twin pot celica st202 carriers you need to use the bigger 275mm discs?

i run celica st202 twin pot calipers along with celica st202 carriers and celica brake pads

my discs are Astra 280mm discs which were lathe down to 277mm to fit---you would need to do a search to find the part numbers, its all on here

also you need a spigot ring to convert the 60mm centre bore of the astra disc to 55/54mm of the starlet

you may have a point there GordR regarding the stock fpr that i did not think about at all,,,,i can't even think of a reasonable fix for the fouling issue

if its not massive fouling, is it a part of the head that you can file away slightly to give yourself some clearance?

i run an aftermarket/SARD fpr, so its tucked away elsewhere, hence no fitment problems 

https://epbible.weebly.com/wiring-diagrams.html

click on the ep82 ect automatic ecu pin out

at a quick glance, the only difference i see between the ECT and MT ecus is on connector 2---pin 16---sensor ground

On 6/11/2018, 10:09:57, gorganl2000 said:

i think its a very difficult question to answer, because a "decent" set up will be very subjective and specific to each car...depending on spring rates, ride height, tires, mounts, bushings, etc....too many variables

my suggestion is to get it correctly aligned and then try from there till you find your sweet spot to suit your driving style and car's suspension  mods 

seems people run about 1 - 2 camber depending 

On 6/11/2018, 10:09:57, gorganl2000 said:

 

that should read "seems people run -1 to -2 camber depending"

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/guide-window-motor-fitting.65988/

not specific to your request, but tons of pics,,,,,maybe you find something that answers your question

i think its a very difficult question to answer, because a "decent" set up will be very subjective and specific to each car...depending on spring rates, ride height, tires, mounts, bushings, etc....too many variables

my suggestion is to get it correctly aligned and then try from there till you find your sweet spot to suit your driving style and car's suspension  mods 

seems people run about 1 - 2 camber depending 

15 hours ago, Godspeed said:

I would like to convert mine to manual, would you say it was worth the hassle?

well, to be honest, i only bought the car when i knew i had all the parts to convert it to manual----i bought all this stuff first...lol

i bought the car, drove it home as an automatic, put all the manual conversion parts into the trunk and took it directly to the mechanic to be converted...so that was the extent of my auto experience---less than 1 day  iirc

for me, it was worth the hassle, as i strongly prefer MT 

may be something to do with the auto variable TPS and neutral start compared to a manual EP91

i converted my car from auto to manual a long time ago, and since then i've ran stock auto ecu, stock MT ecu and JAM MT ecu...the car registered a code 51 iirc with the MT ecus, but worked

have you contacted ME for advice?...they should be able to assist

17 hours ago, akyakapotter said:

Imo i would get one from a proper e-manage dealer get genuine with something so important. 

Cheers nick. 

i totally agree,,,i dont play around with anything fake on my car...period

also, try the for sale section on here, they come up fairly cheap with the fields plug and play harness sometimes and boost sensor

if you are going to stick to a stock td04L...then you can get some mazda gtx 360cc injectors 195500-2130 or toyota 370cc injectors 23250-74160  ----the latter probably have a better spray pattern, but both will work and will require tuning and will meet the needs of any boost u run on a stock td04l

if you plan on hybrid td04l or td05 later on, then get mazda rx7 460cc or 550cc----------the latter are not the best to tune at idle due to old design

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/interchangelable-injectors.58014/

luckily we have some of the newer type Subaru WRX/STI available now as well, 420cc and 565cc---easier to tune with better spray pattern

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1218460

PS. try to avoid fake/cheap non-genuine injectors

i've not heard of any starlets running such massive injectors...are you thinking of E 85?

i personally run subaru sti blue 565cc injectors, after switching from rx7 460cc injectors about 2 months ago,,,,even in a relatively untuned state, the subaru injectors seem to be more driveable and are said to be more tuner friendly----i will find out about the latter part in a few weeks hopefully

also, that price seems rather cheap....just beware 

Nick may be right...i run emu, and had to buy an old laptop with windows XP to get my car tuned...my prior laptop was Vista, if i remember correctly and that worked as well

my newest laptop had windows 7 or 8 on it, and like your experience, i installed the software, but it would not connect via USB to the EMU to allow me to get a tune, it seems the drivers were incompatible-------but it would allow me to view older maps on the hard drive......i even tried some IT advice and ran a partition set up on the newer laptop to install the older windows XP software, but it still didn't work as there was no USB/driver connection when hooked up to the EMU

there you go

i've no knowledge about any of the systems above....however, why not buy a japspeed (whatever is the cheapest system) and change the muffler/backbox to something with a you like...should help with the sound somewhat

by any chance can the wide band sensor need a re-calibration?---how old is it and when last was it re-calibrated?

On 4/29/2018, 7:09:55, hutchy1990 said:

Few pics also decided to give the back end a underseal why the bumper was off when doing the battery.

I tried my work wheels on but am really not sure what to do yet I don't know if they suit like the rotas I tried a few colours like primer grey + gold but I don't know if the same colour as the rotas is the colour I need to go if I do decide I want to keep them what you guys think?

 

 

i'm not much into rims/wheels by name, but i prefer the rim style at the front

On 4/29/2018, 6:57:09, hutchy1990 said:

Hi guys sorry I haven't updated in a bit been in hospital ill out now but recovery time can be up the 7weeks so can't be doing to much. So before I was rushed into hospital I got my race battery fitted, optional extra starlet sills, optional extra multi box + optional extra tidy box.

 

first off,,,i wish you better dude 

the throttle plate is said to be 50mm, so i figure the TB outer diameter is around 52/55mm...whihc would indicate 2" at the TB end of the elbow and whatever size at the other end for the turbo piping  you use (2", 2.25", 2.5", etc)....you may need some kind of reducer sized silicone bend depending

http://www.tercelreference.com/tercel_info/component_library/engine_components.html#throttle%20bodies

the stock elbow looks like 60/45 degrees

may be better you take it off and measure up the TB and go use the elbow to match at the store

i'm not sure based on your description, but seems your manifold/downpipe flange is warped

take it off and get it to a machine shop to get it level/straight

if its the manifold, then its even more important, as it can put strain on the head and crack the stud---a common problem with these cars

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/something-interesting-and-concerning-about-the-stock-intercooler.74284/page-2#post-937516

may be this is what you are looking for?

may be good news or bad news for you ..depending on how you look at it