yaristurbo

best thing to do is get stuck in, stuff like cam belts tho if youre not sure, get some to just muck in with you saves a head rebuild lol

great work amte love clean motors underneath finishs off a good car

then again it best to master a trad ein stead of being a jack of all

ima mechanic mate and i love it at times but at times its a bitch i always put it down to, who you work, the atmoshphere in the garage and whos trained you. if you are serious now is the time to do it, dont wait as it is hard later in life to get in. i love muckingaround with the motor on the weekend in stead of paying for it to be done

i belive the heads are different, best off changing the lump i guess as im guessing there are a different strenght and the fueling will be different

dont kno0w wether its the same as the turbos, but make sure you dont trap it on the inlet manifold holding bracket

anyone intrested in doing a club stand at usc this year, i went last year and had a great weekend. anybody got tickets allready www.ultimatestreetcar.co.uk

check the plug gaps, and also for water contamiation in the dizzy cap, i found this with condesation and jetting the engine bay of, if you have accessiblity to a air blower, blow down all the plug holes inside the dizzy and spay some wd down the coils, after that check that nothing has come a drift i.e. leads or wiring to air flow meters and map sensors let us know how you get on

refit the temp sensor that matching your wiring, it will run shitty as that controls the auto choke which will make it add more fuel or take away as the engine gets hot, once that is done re check, depenmding on what type of sensor it is, you will need a multimeter set to ohms for measuring resistance. with the sensor unplugged use the multi meter on the connections and as the car gets warm the resistance should change as the temp gets warm. it should drop if im think of the right sensor. if the sensors working if it does check the wiring from the sensor for breaks or corrosion

I POKED A PROSTITUTE UNDER A COW BECAUSE IT TURNED ME ON. hmmmmmmmmmm

H

does it spool up to the normal pressure, whip the inlet pipe off to the turbo and have a look for oil, and play in the turbo shaft obviously with the engine off. check for oil misting arounjd boost pipes and on entry to the throttle bodies usually easier to get to thats all

id go with a second hand caliper and get a decent mechanic to fit it, unless you can, with the rebild kits its a lot of messing around than just old off new on, but like keri said check the cable, un clip it from the caliper, clamp some mole grips on it and try and push it in and out, if it moves freely then ok, spray some wd40 do the sleeve to help prevent it from doing it, but if its stiff get another too.

i know its not a starlet but its still jap lol fte powered looking ruff there but looks better now lol, its on ultra lites now aswell not the sleeper steelys

sound ,the standard efi pipe is crap anyway staight over a hot exhaust just have to see about the price lol

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hi, ive got a fte yaris and im wanting to go more power with out forging, enzo posted in tech section about this what sort of space is needed for this and could you pm me with a price for the turbo and manifold, and some other bits i.e. wastegate, and wether a ct9 down pipe will fit to this. really considering trying this. im running a M4 Motec and fmic 2.5 inch exhaust all way to back its the larger version im wanting to test

dont do it stay calm!!! i wont be watching that shit cant stand it, staying on uksc FTW, the missus is gluded to it lol

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i had this went over injectors and everything, turned out to be just the boost control valve clicking

yeh mate its in the yaris, what sort of power will i get out of the ct12 if i dont forge

hi guys, the yaris is coming on good now, 2.5 inch staright through, motec, fmic, 235lph fuel pump, trd thermostat, . but im wanting to forge and big power time. what dealers do you recommend and prices on the forges, and what turbo! there are so many to go at min, just not sure what to do, prices on that needed also lol thanks dan td012????

cant belive that id never ring a customer and tell them that, oxyacetylene and some patention is all thats needed and some wd-40 lol

there should be no power loss as turbo'd motors dont really need the back pressure like an n/a on valve overlap. ive got a striaght through on mine from the turbo down with a back on the end which sounds awsome on boost, the box rattled it self off the other day and it was unbearable, the noise was so low feq it sounded like a knackered sub. dont do it they sound shite.

if you go with the 5mm spacer just make sure there plenty of avaible threads left for the wheels nuts