jamesglanza

Very nice build there mate, gen 1 Toyota rav 4 throttle cable is longer and a direct fit. Had the same problem with my inlet.

I have tried looping the plug for icv, will have a look at the throttle body over the weekend. Thanks for the input lads

Was thinking maybe tps will have to get a multimeter, haven't had the car mapped yet but only running emu as I can't afford to go stand alone just yet.

Only when warmed up, first start the car and it sits at 8-900rpm after a couple of minutes running it goes up to 11-1200. Check vacs and all the obvious, engine temp sensor? Not running icv as on wepr inlet. Any help greatly appreciated thanks.

I have 2 blue silicone spare from a set for ct9

Knew this wouldn't take long 😅

That green round headlight model would be a good buy

Dam it I left the party to early again, cheers for clearing that up Morgey. I have gathered up all the extra oem lsd parts and taken them up the garden to burn then so I can't be a part of it anymore. Looks similar.

I know the limitations of my knowledge on gearboxes and it stops at what they look like lol. Why did they fit a long coupling and short shaft?

A lot of teeth have been broken and some gears nearly shredded but I will dig out the box I had been given.

Shit someone called the drive shaft police, lol I Know that's not the case and I'm still unsure why people say (equal length drive shafts) but it's a lot shorter than normal and I've never been that anal to get a tape and measure them. As LukEP already said it and to save a petty dispute on the length of a drive shaft I also said pretty much the same length. Why did they use a shorter shaft and a longer box? What was the extra bit of the box used to accommodate?

You sir are right! Think I still have oem lsd internals some where in a box, will dig them out to compare.

Oem is helical Cusco would be plated and as far as I'm aware they have markings. Do some research mate.

Oem lsd has a shortened drivers side drive shaft, so there pretty much equal length. And you need a different engine mount and flywheel cover mate. Will not fit in a normal gearbox casing

Pm'd

No worries bud, hate spending twice the money on the same product.

If you look at toyota bearings there stamped koyo. Wheel, timing and clutch release bearings. £50 from Toyota £25 delivered for the koyo.

If your after a genuine Toyota bearing then td have them in stock but expect to pay up. I use these Ebay Item number (301178256615) from Japan service parts there made by koyo in Japan who make bearings for Toyota.

No broken clips or cracked lense. Will take a pair if the price is right.

Think it's 20mm bud whiteline do 22 and 24mm

Anything with a core size of 450mm (700mm Inc end tanks) x 270mm and around 50-70mm thick. It's mainly the pipework that will faul the bumper and requires trimming. If the core is mounted close to or behind the crash bar with air con rad then it's doable if your running ct9 with 2" pipework. If your not running air con rad then a rear entry intercooler core and some custom or short route pipework in 2.5" could see you well away from the bumper. Check out the WEPR kits, Sacha used to do a ct9 kit with a 2" core and 2" pipework that fitted really tight on stock set up with very minor trimming to the bumper. Also the rear entry kits. I'm sure there is others on the market Hope that helps.

Either look for a cheap paseo or serviceable block and crank. Your Gona need to re-bore after 100k and send the crank for a re-grind and Polish anyways if your going to forge it.

There was a 5e block and crank on eBay, use head off the gt and source a flywheel to fit fte clutch.

The Wilwood 4pots and 3g disc kit are a snug fit with 15" wheels

I had a similar problem a while back and ended up shaving down the front casting of the ball joint, as there really think. Then bought new genuine Toyota ball joints and found they where much smaller than ones bought from local motor factors. There not that expensive from Toyota tbh might help you out.