StuDoc 72

Aye its not been that long in the doing i suppose i only got it fitted last week so not too bad yet plus its still on the road just stuck ma old ct9 on. With the aftermarket mani and de cat can whip it all off in haf an hour its great lol. Nah mate just doing it in the car park round from ma gaff do all our work down there places is a riot skyline body parts everywhere haha.

Could probly arrange somthin mate but its really not in great state would need beaten an painted.

I am quite a distance but i have a bonnet not in the best condition but the offer is there if hes desperate.

Standard socked for the back deep one for the front. You shoudnt need a socket for the rear as its tapered bearings on them so shudnt be tight anyway. Probly best to have one in any case i guess

x2 most tyres will have poor grip in wet with these cars. Light vehicle + wide tyres + lots of power + rain = Fail!

Glasgow turbo specialists in Govan mate theyve been decent enough though these things happen could be anything thats causing it. I got it off a guy on here called hazzagray. I needto wait and see they said the bearing housin could have a tiny crack and thats where its leaking under pressure just a matter of being patient.

Well i think it should sort it because i really cant see anything else that would cause that at all all of the turbo pipes seem to be sealed nicely and im almost certain it had somthing to do with vac pipes because i got my pal to rev it for me while I looked for leaks and stuff and i could see the actuator mooving which i wouldnt imagine is normal while the car is just sitting there so assumed somehow it was opening and preventing it from boosting properly.

Nice one buddy ill have a go at that tonight i took it a test drive last night i was like WTF this is so slow looked at my boost gauge had 0.2 bar i was just glad there was no smoke so i knew it was the turbo and not my engine. And i only mentioned that vac pipe because Hazell mentioned it in the 1st post and i thought i dont remember that lol. Cheers for that one anyway pal ill have a go tonight and see how i get on.

I have the same issue ive changed over turbos to my hybrid and it was smokey after a rebuild so going back to get fixed. So put my standard ct9 back on but had removed the plumbing for the hi/lo boost now im only getting 0.2bar of boost i blocked off the other nipple on the actuator so i assume this is where i went wrong??? I dont have a vac pipe from my inlet to my turbo though should i have i dont recall this at all?? You used instant gasket on your hot pipe mate are you nuts you realise that will pass through your engine?

Fitted ma new turbo but was smoking like hell coming off boost so the mob tht done the seals will prob needa do them again. So ive refitted my old turbo and now it will only boost to 0.2 bar :S fuck knows what the score is only thing tht i can think of is the standard actuator has 2 vac nipples on it and im assuming ive put the vac pipe from the turbo onto the wrong one. Any other suggestions?

Normally they come with a dimmer wire so you would wire them to light up with ignition then when you turn on your lights they would dim slightly.

What do you mean is the friction part of the flywheel removable on them? Ive got a few other issues im in the process of fixing atm anyway so im in no rush to go pulling the box off again so dont worry about that. PM me how much you woyuld be after for it?

You got one for sale just now? Much are you after? and is there pics?

^^^ LOL

I thought it was due to the face of the the flywheel being worn where the clutch contacts it and basically causing the friction plate to sit further away from it when disengaged due to the lip and the wear on the flywheel. Im more after ideas of where to get flywheels is there more options than just standard etc etc?

Its not changin though mate its constantly shite lol. It feels like a worn clutch or as i suspect a worn flywheel thats what i believe and its done nearly 150km now and has always been completely standard so i doubt ever had anywork to the flywheel.

So ive not long replaced my clutch due to thinking it was slipping but when the box came off the old clutch had plenty meat left on it and has since been used in a diff starlet where it is perfect. The biting point is quite high up and is not very strong like it should be it just sort of slowly bits until your foot is off the clutch and the car judders slightly. My next port of call is to flush through with new brake fluid to see if thats the issue but i have a funny feeling that it is down to wearing on the flywheel. So from there im looking for opinions on whether skimming my flywheel would sort the issue which i assume it would. Or would i just be better if buying a new flywheel or aftermarket one???? Opinions and links would be apprectiated. Cheers

Im not an expert but spring wise you need anything below what youd like to run so if you want 0.7 bar cud have a 0.6 bar or 0.7 bar spring and use the EBC to run 1.1. as for the valve im not sure sorry.

Haha that guy is a genious the stuff hes done.

Aye mate still wanting it was just waiting on a reply haha. Is it unused? When can you send it out?

Aye theres 2 wires behind that and 2 wires on your boost gauge mate cnt possibly go wrong and you have john there even willing to help so id play dumb haha.

Virgin Media ....... Nuff Said

I went with the cigarette lighter mate easy to get to and easy to wire in.

I wonder what the insurance claim form for that looked like lol.

I had the last 2 weeks off work by pure coincidence and watched it every day was great i was completely hooked. Alot we can take from that and be proud of just shows the difference time makes they kept mentioning 20 year ago all we got was 1 gold!