StuDoc 72

Just run the boost controller off the turbo as you should. And run the boost gauge off the inlet mani to BOV vac pipe. Sorted ;)

5 years of ownership and the only time i want to sell it is when im working on it and its being a bitch. Once i get it finished and drive it again i quickly forget those silly thought.

Ill view the temple 1 later

Mine were riveted on too. Nothing a hammer, screwdriver and a bit of elbow grease cant take care of lol.

No probs buddy any problems take a picture and ill help as much as I can but should be relatively straight forward.

You can jack it up on the rear axle then put the 2 axle stands under the jacking points on the sills at either side at the rear. That way you have even space underneath and no jack to get in your way.

You dont need to rent mate. Do you not have a car jack? Just jack it up and lie underneath. Its jus a couple of 10mm bolts that hold the cable in position. Then you remove a heatshield from behind the exhaust and unclip it. Its a doddle bud. I hadto undo my exhaust to move it but it wasnt a big deal. Took me an hour or something from start to finish.

What is it your struggling with mate? Its pretty straight forward. Are you talking about disconnecting it from the cable nearer the front I assume up behind the exhaust?

Shouldn't a boost controller be plummed in at the turbo anyway?

You already know im in

So it just sounds like a blatant knock on the floor well? Have you checked all your engine and gearbox mounts are tight?

Yeah if you block the vac pipe that will stop the bov opening and cause flutter but like i said and you may have noticed a standard CT9 comp wheel is quite small and only had 8 blades so it doesnt give off much of a chatter noise due to the lack of blades it tends to sound more like a dump valve.

Is it still boosting ok? As in no leaks? Do you still just have the standard CT9? If you dont have a relocated airfilter you wont hear it as loud also the standard CT9 has a very small comp intake and the wheel only has 8 blades rather than 12 so when it flutters it tends to sound like a woosh rather than a chatter.

The pin im using just now is easily removeable mate and i thought about using a nut and bolt just wanted to see if anyone had the pin lying about lol. If need be though ill just have to use that.

Av got this aswell mate haha.

PM'd

Can you feel the knock more than hear hear it? Is your steering wheel vibrating? Have you tried 2 diff wheels on the front to make sure its not the wheels or tyres?

Hello people I'm in quite a bit of need for the pin for an HKS actuator as the one ive got is a home made effort and doesnt fit properly. If you have one kicking about maybe on an old turbo or actuator let me know id very much appreciate it. Cheers

So i checked last night and the arm on the actuator was slightly loose. I tightened it up a few turns and i do think it has began to sort the issue. The problem now being I had to have a pin made up as i didnt have the HKS 1 but the one on mine isnt a perfect fit so the actuator arm sits at an angle to the wastegate penny arm. Does anyone have a spare pin kicking about on an old turbo or actuator?

Av got the full standard exhaust aswell mate with a mani cat the whole lot if you need tht too lol. Like tht for a sales pitch. 1 stop exhaust shop at ma gaff.

Ive got used turbo gaskets might even have a mani 1 aswell mate. Then just go to fynepax in dton and get nuts n bolts for a quid or 2 and use some exhaust paste for the rest. Viola sorted cheapy cheap

Your running a CT9 and will still have the standard management worst thing tht can happen is you hit fuel cut and that will only happen if its really cold or if your ragging the dick out of it. I can garuntee if you have a healthy engine now putting mods on it and leaving the boost the same and staying away from fuel cut will do no damage what so ever. Infact if you were staying off fuel cut you will be making your engines life easier as it will be able to do the same without as much stress. As for the rest what mike and trisk have been saying Id back them up also emanage is a farr better way to go if you plan to do all those mods. The only real justification in a plug and play is if you buy it 1st and then begin to mod as you dont needto have it mapped each time you fit a new part but it will be heavier on fuel and ultimately less powerful.

Aye mate the turbo is spot on just been rebuilt and was boosting perfect before we done the flyy wheel and removed the Ic and de cat.

Kl I'll give that a go tonight and see how I get on and go from there. Cheers

I was hoping this would be the cause but with the arm being set too long surely it wouldnt be making boost higher up?? Or could this be creep due to the tiny intercooler do you reckon? I hope it was a leak last week and the actuator this week lol.