Dylanfarrell

Repost

D4d boxes are all expensive because they fail so regularly and they're the same box in nearly all the D4D's like avensis and corolla Oul lad has a D4D Auris and the first gearbox blew up and cracked the housing. Bought a second box and had it professionally rebuilt to be sure it was A1 going in and within a few months that blew as well. On his 3rd box which he bought refurbished with warranty in exchange for his broken gearbox. Hopefully this one lasts a little longer lol

For which conversion? You can get a 6 speed out of the corolla g6 which comes with 4efe. Alternatively you can get the gear stack, diff and housing from a BZR and swap it into the bellhousing from a gt/glanza. Open to correction on this though

The very same as mine so I'd say, small BR stamp in the middle?

Nice drop on them, next on my list me thinks after seeing this

What shock/spring combo is it running?

Had a set similar on an old micra. Awesome wheels

So went and tried everything. Bled from back corner all the way around again. Covered the MC with a but of plastic to get a better seal and still no dirt or bubbles from the caliper. Bled the MC in situ and still nothing. Hardly to do with the smaller N/A brake servo being up to pushing enough fluid for the BZG brakes?

See this is where you differ. From reading and being told by others they all say to leave the car off during bleeding? Could this be the culprit? As I've followed pretty much everything you've said there to a tee more than once and every time there's been nothing but clear brake fluid coming from the tube

Okay so, I've fit my BZG brakes, discs and pads. I fully retracted the pistons before fitting. Made sure the MC was completely topped up, cleared the bleed nipples with the compressor and applied grease to threads to ensure tight seal, clamped lines before refitting. Lid left on MC and engine off. Copper washers replaced and everything on tight as I could manage Started by opening front passo side and pumped with the nipple open for a minute into a jar of fluid to pass as much air as I could first. Did the same for driver side then. Once I got a bit of a feel in the pedal I bled both the fronts ensuring fluid stayed topped up. Problem is now once the car starts up all feel is gone from pedal and takes 3 pumps to stop the car. I then went on to bleed all the brakes from furthest from the MC to the closest and it improved some but still takes 2 or 3 pumps to stop. Any suggestions as to the issue??

Thanks bud, didn't realise it kept the solid rear beam in the 4x4 ep's. I'm only really familiar with Nissans, mainly Almera's, and the Jap equivalent 4x4 had a fully independent rear suspension similar to the sunny/pulsar GTiR. I thought maybe starlets would run a similar setup

Hardly based anywhere near the west? Lol want to do this swap to my ep81 but not a clue where to start. Just posted on TOC there looking for info

Was this carb originally?

That drop with those advans mmmmm!

Wow that's nuts! How did it ever manage an MOT if the springs aren't even captive?!?!

Nice work! Has anyone pictures of the underside of the 4x4? Would love to see how they're set up from factory

Apology accepted

I've emailed them today to ask the bulb size for sure, they appear to be a push fit T2 bulb. If they are I'll order a set up in green and white to help the sale

Just noticed it's collection only but I'm sure if you asked reeeeal nice he might post at extra cost

http://www.toyotaownersclub-irl.com/t57940-f-s-high-lift-5efhe-cams

Set for sale on TOC-IRL for €100

T28? Just seen the thread title fully, damn Tapatalk!

For reference to anyone looking in future, Mx3 V6 brake discs are a straight fit for these calipers with a small bit trimmed off the hub to fit the disc over the hub

What did I say? You won't get anywhere near the performance of the top range stuff but for the price you can't go wrong. Never once recommended he buy BC'S or Meisters or any of the "top end" cpilovers