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Everything posted by mech5107
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Usually there is a switch to activate the launch. Usually using the switch in the handbrake. In most applications, it's only an auxiliary rpm limiter, lets say 4500rpm. You activate by pulling the e-brake and keep the throttle at 100%. The car holds 4500, but building boost.
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You can find one in this price segment in ebay i think... And it's sold with both black and silver rings and black and white gauge face, in the package.
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Sorry guys but the car has been sold to a new owner now... The top rear brace is ultra racing c-pillar bar.
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This is a Greek car, glanza convertion actually. It's stock engine, with many peripherals, T25 turbo, 60mm decat exhaust, striped interior, kaaz lsd, buddy club coilover with trd springs (12kg front/6 rear), all available braces, AP 4pots, R888, etc. http://www.team-ep789.gr/teamforum/index.php?topic=262.0
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Yes you are correct. I didn't like the idea to hammer the stock GT sevro. If i could, i would just use the full GT setup, sevro, MC, brakes...
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All are bolt on, only one brake line had to be bend, but that's easy, without tools. I used the N14 sevro, cause my LHD car has not enough space between the sevro and clutch MC, so i needed something small in diameter but bigger in capacity. After fitting the sevro, the brakes had too much power for my like, so i needed an bigger MC, so to have stiffer pedal and more control, as my car has no abs. I searched the local junk yards and found the R34 GTR that fits. Actually there are 2 versions, one that is 1" piston size and one 1 1/16". There is also the option of Navara that is 15/16" I have
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First of all, the steering is much more active. Better feeling, a bit heavier (good in my opinion). The understeer is reduced a lot. The noise has been significantly deduced (my old bushing had ~180.000 klm). The general feel of the car is much improved, more informative and active i could say. I had the front bar for some time now. I just added new droplinks. Made some difference, not much. I'd suggest getting a whiteline 22mm or something, but i'm not sure is it will fit the ep7 chassis. I do plan to get a stock gt bar and try...so i let all know
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The caster kit is the EP82/91 model. Fits perfect in ep70 arms. The code is klc325 i think. Front polybushes are supperpro, ep82/91. It's the 34mm version. I think the code is 1881 or something I can verify the codes, but as i said, it's just the ep82/91 models.
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Yes the bars are all 4130 cromoly tubes of 1 inch outside diameter. I'm fortunate enough to be involved in motorsports for the last 8 years, so i have free access to tools and materials
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Now that the site is back and my account is also re-enabled, i updated the car specs + a recent foto of the engine bay. I couldn't belive how much difference front caster kit and polybushed made to the car handling...
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Taggys EP70 Boxy, Forged TD04, 5E-FTE
mech5107 replied to Taggy's topic in EP70 & EP71 Progress Blogs
Taggy, can i have some photos from the I/C setup you have. I'm looking to use a front mount in mine, also sleeper look... -
Taggys EP70 Boxy, Forged TD04, 5E-FTE
mech5107 replied to Taggy's topic in EP70 & EP71 Progress Blogs
Taggy, why don't you go with a I/C similar to the R5 turbo above? It seems to fit next to radiator, where now lives a plastic cover. That's what i plan to do... -
Celica also had the beams engine. Both 197 and 210ps engines are beams, all versions except of the alteza are 197. This engine seems as a normal 3sge.
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Nice project, but why not going turbo? I don't think that the stock ~150ps will keep up with the 4efte power Also i think the correct name is SE-102 or something...
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Well, maybe this is tricky... I have a ep70 with 2etelu engine. It's generally stock (HKS intake, 0,8bar boost, iridium plugs). The problem is that i have a strange error in the ecu diagnostics. It's 51 but it only happens once. Letâ??s say i erase everything and check, there is no error (constant blipping). If i just press the gas pedal, it gives me instantly a 51, but only once. What is the problem? I calibrated the tps with 20 and 28 feeler gauges, as the guide in GTT, but didn't solve the problem.
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The thermostat has stamped the temp on it.... Mine, with the stock 82c, it was just under half usualy With the 76c, it like yours, half when standing, could reach even cold in highway... Also, the stock gauge is not very reliable...
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If your thermostat is 76c, then it's pretty much normal...
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If it's cheap, then yes maybe it's the new 86...although the 2l engine spoils it...but concidering that back then the 1,6l was a "big" engine, it's similar to todays 2l...
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Was the compression test done with warm engine, fully open tb, no sparkplugs and charged battery?
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Get a starting fluid can and carefully spray around intake. If it picks up revs, it has a leak. Then do it again but more localy (i.e. tb, intake manifold, etc). Also, get the adj. screw out and clean it.
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No...actualy there is no official PFC for the starlet. All are SW20 mr2 version, that AP engineering modded for starlet. Maybe someone could copy the rom from a 4efte ecu to a sw20 but no sure results.
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Taggys EP70 Boxy, Forged TD04, 5E-FTE
mech5107 replied to Taggy's topic in EP70 & EP71 Progress Blogs
So both front mounts are the same and the rear needs only some work. Then a poweflex poly mount set, or a trd one for ep82/91 could fit the ep70? -
knocking/tapping sound from rear drivers side?
mech5107 replied to Billy SR's topic in Chassis & Suspension
Check the bolts that attach the upright to the wishbone. Mine all 3 got loose a week ago.