mech5107

I always loved the box style starlet, from the time that i was a kid. This ep70 was originaly my grandpas car. The original specs were: XL (base) edition 1E engine Standard suspension, brakes, everything. When still being stock, the thermostat got stuck and overheated, damaging the headgasket and the piston rings. I opened it, changed rings, rod bearings, headgaskets and valve seals, but soon it started burning oil again. I did 5000klm this way and at the end it was burning like 1lt of oil in every 70klm Still loved driving and revving the 1E. In that time i fitted k-sport coilovers, full glanza brakes, skyline brake master cylinder, nissan n14 sevro, 14x6 black racing wheels, custom lower control arms bar, custom front and rear strut braces, c-pilar bar a bride brix bucket and nardi steering wheel. The concept is to keep it JDM and sleeper (as possible). Some pics: Then i decided to change the engine to something that was in better state than my 1E and maybe more power. I was lucky and found a complete ep71 turbo, a bit crashed, so i swapped the 2e-telu engine, gearbox, driveshafts and complete wiring. As you see it's more or less stock... Current specs: -Engine: 2Ε-TELU - 1300cc - 12valve - CT12 turbo Radiator from 1500 diesel ep70 Denso IW20 plugs Low Temp theromostat HKS filter HKS Actuator Oldschool HKS BOV HKS EVC3 boost controller Apexi old school turbo timer TRD 1,3bar radiator cap Magnetic sump plug ENEOS 5-40 Full synthetic oil Magnecor KV85 leads ZEP 60 decat Custom 60mm exhaust without resonators, just a backbox -Transmission: 5speed box, unknown type Open diff (TRD 1.5way diff is waiting) Aluminum gear selector bushings Quick Shift custom made and knob made of ertalon Exedy Clucth kit Total 75w90 gearbox oil -Brakes: Starlet Turbo front and rear ATE SuperBlue Racing fluid EBC yellow pads front / Mintex rear EBC Grooved discs Custom braided lines Sevro Ν14, MC Nissan R33 GT-R 17/16" -Wheels/Tires: Black racing 14x6 et40 Spacer 3mm front, 9mm back Falken Ziex 912 185/60/14 -Suspension: Ksport coilover EP71 turbo front strut bar Custom rear strut bar Custom lower control arms bar Custom C-pilar bar Front 20mm antiroll bar (EP71 turbo) Adjustable panhard rod Whiteline anti-roll drop links Whiteline adjustable rear antiroll bar Whiteline caster kit Superpro 34mm front arms bushings Ultra Racing room bar -Interior: Turbo S instruments panel Boost meter Greedy 52mm AEM wideband Cheap mp3 Felix Nardi classico 350mm Bride Brix bucket EP71s interior Domo-Kun and lego Darth Vader hung from the sun shield -Look: Stock ep70 Raised bonnet ~4cm lowered "Team EP789.gr" sticker on back door Future plans: A haltech stand alone that i have lying around An LSD diff (TRD 1.5way waiting) Custom lcd screen multi gauge for oil temp/press and water temp. Greddy EGT (have it in my desk) Oil cooler with mocal thermostatic adaptor and celica gt4 rad (i had it in my 1E, waiting to be fitted again)

Taggy, i think that the mount on the engine itself need to be changed. I mean in the other side, the one that bolts to the engine block.

I see in the pic that they used a half size and thin radiator. What about temps. With my stock 1e radiator, it was getting hot after some (little) pushing. Fitted a ep71 turbo rad, it's 2row, and a bit longer than 1e original rad and never had issue again. But in this case the i/c would block the air to the rad. You maybe use a smaller i/c at the side of the ep71 turbo rad. The top mount from a turbo diesel pick-up i think it will do the trick.

Seems that the distance between sevro and clutch MC from RHD to LHD is different...glad i learned something today. Another difference is the air duct that you used for mounting the ecu (...i presume). Mine has also holes where you bolted the brackets. Anyway, seems to be a really good built. You will keep it sleeper look? What about the intercooler? The stock front face has no room to hide a normal fmic...

Mine is LHD, so maybe it's different. But it barely fits, even the nissan one. Are you sure that you have the standar gt sevro? It's definetly not working in mine. Could you answer in my quastion about ecu mounting?

The servo from ep82/ep91/gt/glanza, don't fit in the ep70 cause the master cylinder of the clutch is too close. Use one from a nissan n14 sunny 1,4l. Also i would suggest an 15/16 master cylinder, maybe from nissan navara/gtr etc. That's what i used in my ep70. Also, what did you used to mount the ecu? Mine was 1E and swaped a 2E-TELU. Originaly the ecu has some brackets that botl to 2 holes in the firewall but my chassis doesn't have them, so the ecu is just hanging from the harness and rest on the carpet.

Nope! Fronts top mounts need small modification... Actualy you have to drill the midle holes to increase the distance between them. Nothing serious though...just a litle drill work...rears fit 100%. Keep in mind that the fronts should be adjusted a bit higher than when in ep2/91, cause in 70 it will be too low.

You don't need to drill anything. You just turn the key between acc and on and there's a pin that you push and unlocks the barrel. Then you just slide it out.

Could you estimate a shipping cost to Greece?

The HKS guidelines are for CT9 only. It should work with any turbo, but the length setting should be different for a given boost level.

I think the green one on the first post is fake. Also the blue one. The last one (green one) seems original. I have the same as the first post, the green one. If you see at the back there are a lot of rough spots, and the funnel inside has also some injection errors. I suppose that HKS would never let something not perfect sold. So the best way to say if it's genuine or fake is to inspect the finishing quality.

I think that 10 or 11psi is the correct boost.

Looks mean! Although some work is needed. I have the same wheels, also in an ep70. What engine does it have?

Wire the signal wire to the negative of the coil

What car/engine?

Nice ep71. I also own one (actually EP70, with 2e-telu swap). The rear axle is off a glanza/gt? It will not fit the ep71, as the arms are about 8cm longer. You either cut them shorter or mount the disk to your original axle (an adaptor ring is needed as the ep70 spindle is about 2mm short in diameter than the glanza/gt (i think 25 and 27). Finally i suggest to stay with the drums, as i saw no difference with the rear disks.

My Nardi 360mm clasico

I'd say with some 15mm spacer, it would fit, but i already have 6mm and i hit the fenders...

How was the car behaving?

Welded diff is like no diff. Only place that something like this would have actual value is track usage or drag racing. In order to tackle a corner properly, the car should actually lift the front inside wheel. Otherwise is not usable

Keri do you offer only the caliper with pads and lines? I mean no adapters, no disks... I tried the 14" template today and it wouldn't clear my 14" Black Racing wheels. For the reference, it's 14*6 ET40. If it was ET34 and a tad smaller rotor, it will fit (Lets say the stock glanza 255mm)

Thanks Keri! Hope it will fit my 14"s

Will you ship to Greece?

If this happens only when cold, it's the stem seals. If when hot, it's the rings. I say, let it warm up, open the bonnet, pull the oil indicator out and rev the engine. If smoke pops out of the dipstick tube, it's definitively the rings. To be sure you could measure the compression.

You mean that the fuel gauge always tell you the actual level? Even with the ignition off? All my Toyotas, go down when off rise to the correct level when ignition on. I'm from Greece, but even my ep70 that is converted to turbo-s is going down when off. On the other hand, it's normal that the level moves when turning. Every car do that, some are just more sensitive than others.