mech5107

MOTEC is a good brand, but the PFC will do most of the staff that motec do with less money. I would stay with the PFC and map it somewhere. Any good tuner should do it. By the way, you need the datalogit to map the ecu the easy way. It can be done by the commander too, but it's very difficult.

Some more pic... The only one from the dash ( i will get a new/better one) My lower arm bar (made it myself, CR-MO 1", tig welded. I can jack the car from this, no problem) Rear strut bar (self made, cr-mo 1", with rod ends directly on top mounts bolts) Some interior Wheels (need refurb, tires look bad, but those Yoko DNA GP were perfect)

I always loved the box style starlet, from the time that i was a kid. This ep70 was originaly my grandpas car. The original specs were: XL (base) edition 1E engine Standard suspension, brakes, everything. When still being stock, the thermostat got stuck and overheated, damaging the headgasket and the piston rings. I opened it, changed rings, rod bearings, headgaskets and valve seals, but soon it started burning oil again. I did 5000klm this way and at the end it was burning like 1lt of oil in every 70klm Still loved driving and revving the 1E. In that time i fitted k-sport coilovers, full

Taggy, i think that the mount on the engine itself need to be changed. I mean in the other side, the one that bolts to the engine block.

I see in the pic that they used a half size and thin radiator. What about temps. With my stock 1e radiator, it was getting hot after some (little) pushing. Fitted a ep71 turbo rad, it's 2row, and a bit longer than 1e original rad and never had issue again. But in this case the i/c would block the air to the rad. You maybe use a smaller i/c at the side of the ep71 turbo rad. The top mount from a turbo diesel pick-up i think it will do the trick.

Seems that the distance between sevro and clutch MC from RHD to LHD is different...glad i learned something today. Another difference is the air duct that you used for mounting the ecu (...i presume). Mine has also holes where you bolted the brackets. Anyway, seems to be a really good built. You will keep it sleeper look? What about the intercooler? The stock front face has no room to hide a normal fmic...

Mine is LHD, so maybe it's different. But it barely fits, even the nissan one. Are you sure that you have the standar gt sevro? It's definetly not working in mine. Could you answer in my quastion about ecu mounting?

The servo from ep82/ep91/gt/glanza, don't fit in the ep70 cause the master cylinder of the clutch is too close. Use one from a nissan n14 sunny 1,4l. Also i would suggest an 15/16 master cylinder, maybe from nissan navara/gtr etc. That's what i used in my ep70. Also, what did you used to mount the ecu? Mine was 1E and swaped a 2E-TELU. Originaly the ecu has some brackets that botl to 2 holes in the firewall but my chassis doesn't have them, so the ecu is just hanging from the harness and rest on the carpet.

Nope! Fronts top mounts need small modification... Actualy you have to drill the midle holes to increase the distance between them. Nothing serious though...just a litle drill work...rears fit 100%. Keep in mind that the fronts should be adjusted a bit higher than when in ep2/91, cause in 70 it will be too low.

You don't need to drill anything. You just turn the key between acc and on and there's a pin that you push and unlocks the barrel. Then you just slide it out.

Could you estimate a shipping cost to Greece?

The HKS guidelines are for CT9 only. It should work with any turbo, but the length setting should be different for a given boost level.

I think the green one on the first post is fake. Also the blue one. The last one (green one) seems original. I have the same as the first post, the green one. If you see at the back there are a lot of rough spots, and the funnel inside has also some injection errors. I suppose that HKS would never let something not perfect sold. So the best way to say if it's genuine or fake is to inspect the finishing quality.

I think that 10 or 11psi is the correct boost.

Looks mean! Although some work is needed. I have the same wheels, also in an ep70. What engine does it have?

Wire the signal wire to the negative of the coil

What car/engine?

Nice ep71. I also own one (actually EP70, with 2e-telu swap). The rear axle is off a glanza/gt? It will not fit the ep71, as the arms are about 8cm longer. You either cut them shorter or mount the disk to your original axle (an adaptor ring is needed as the ep70 spindle is about 2mm short in diameter than the glanza/gt (i think 25 and 27). Finally i suggest to stay with the drums, as i saw no difference with the rear disks.

My Nardi 360mm clasico

I'd say with some 15mm spacer, it would fit, but i already have 6mm and i hit the fenders...

How was the car behaving?

Welded diff is like no diff. Only place that something like this would have actual value is track usage or drag racing. In order to tackle a corner properly, the car should actually lift the front inside wheel. Otherwise is not usable

Keri do you offer only the caliper with pads and lines? I mean no adapters, no disks... I tried the 14" template today and it wouldn't clear my 14" Black Racing wheels. For the reference, it's 14*6 ET40. If it was ET34 and a tad smaller rotor, it will fit (Lets say the stock glanza 255mm)

Thanks Keri! Hope it will fit my 14"s

Will you ship to Greece?