mech5107

Remove the tps (unplug) and check how it will work... 5e or 4e shouldn't make any difference for this matter. It's either some kind of vacuum leak or the tps.

Check the TPS. It should probably read close all the time, so when you pass 1500rpm (or whatever rpm is the deceleration fuel cut for your ecu) it will cut all power to injectors and as soon as it will reach ~1100 it will again start firring them. If you have a wideband, it should be obvious, when rpms drop, there should be no or extremely lean reading. Unplug the tps and check again. Also check for vacuum leaks. Finally when it's cold, it shouldn't do it for the first lets say 30-60 seconds.

Tires and rims, lower control arm bar, front strut bar, coilovers, rear strut bar, rear arb, polybush the front arms, anti-lift kit, floor bar, c-pillar.

D2 are not repairable, but there are replacement struts from D2 dealers

The brace looks like the standar brace of ep71 turbo... Did you had it in a 91/82?

I'm also looking to change the mounts in my ep70...thinking on going with powerflex. I have the dimensions of the mount inserts for ep82/91, if it could be of any help.

A pic of the samco hoses from the inside? How many miles?

Could you let me know the dimensions of the intercoolers and if possible a photo of the inside (to see the "type" of the core)?

PM me the lowest price you could go...please

My 2etelu with ct12 hits 0.8bar in 4th in ~3000rpm

Big TB don't give response in general....on the contrast, it makes it more on-off state, as with small increases in the plate angle the opening is becoming bigger. Unless you run a proper managment, big changes in TB size are not good for drivability.

I'd say go for a 5efhe intake and use an rpm switch to operate the 2nd runners. I've seen more than 20hp increase...

Depending on the disk used, you need an 8mm spacer in the inside of the disk.

Oil change...7000klm. No smoke etc...

I run Eneos full synthetic 5-40 in my 2etelu with 230.000klm. Changing every 7000klms the oil consumption is around 500ml...but the turbo is also started to burn some oil...

Ofcourse no engine is exactly the same as another one, but it should be close. Otherwise there is an issue with that engine. Maybe it's not 12:1 at full boost, but it should be somewhere around... Are you sure your sensors are calibrated and correctly installed? Regardless of afr READING, doing some dyno pulls, either lean or rich, there should be a setting that it will give the best power. This is the correct tunning...afrs and ign should be near perfect.

Are you using narrowband sensor/gauge?

14.7 to 1 AFR is not clever to anything thank light load cruising and idle. For a N/A motor i would aim for 12,5 to 1 for high loading (70+ TPS, 4500+ rpm) and ~13,5 for an all out racing engine that i could monitor any time. (As an example, an EP3 type R at 12-12,3 will be around 215-220hp, at 13,5 it will be around 230-235) For a turbo motor i would go for 11.5 for high loading, around 13 in light acceleration (still in vacuum or ~0.1 to 0.2bar boost) and 14.7 at light cruising (highway 65mph, 3500rpm). In a all out race turbo motor i'd go for 12.5 AFR as i could regularly monitor it and ch

If anyone has a 2etelu manifold, either stock or aftermarket, let me know.

Get a led setup from ebay...Cheap and very bright...

What piston size are these 2 pots? What pads they use?

Interested in the cusco catch tank... PM me a total with shipping to Greece, please...

Someone could use an old disc, turn it down so it would leave no disc, just the hub. Then use whatever 4x100 disc you like and fabricate the caliper mounts for your prefered caliper. Also, someone could cut the stab axle on the back, machine adaptors and run golf rear hubs/discs/calipers. This will also let you adjust camber and toe using shims.

Only core and line? I already have a mocal thermostatic plate for the oil pick up.

PM me a price for the boost controller