mech5107

More than 2-2.5 degrees should start affecting the handling... For mormal use, ~1.5 should be enough...

Do you have the damping curves of these?

I'd put those in...if compined with the 5efhe intake, it will give around 20hp i think...I've seen similar setups getting even more gain.

Then you just need something like this: http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Black-Sandwich-Plate-Adaptor-Oil-Temp-Pressure-Sensor-M20-3-4-Filter-/221175898220?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337f1c606c#ht_1303wt_1139

You probably need the defi controller that sensors connect to and then send the commands to the gauges.

Should be 2 lines going to the electrovalve. One to the actuator, one for the compressor housing. If you crank it down, what boost do you get?

Have you check the idle when fully warm in diagnostic mode? Also try cleaning the idle control valve.

I use only full synthetic. Now ENEOS 5w40 and plan to go for AMSoil Dominator 20w50.

You need the commander for the AP Engineering 4efte ecu. But the new commander with the led screen should fit all ecus. At least, i have seen starlets having the new commander....

A normal 5e is ok, also a light tunned 5e is ok. But the 5e similar to the one in the JAM car wil have no low end and the fuel efficiency will be poor. Also the N/A tunning cost a lot more than turbo... With a 4efte, add an fcd, an HKS actuator, second hand downpipe and exhaust and a front mount filter and you can have car running to 165ps with less than €500.

The jam 5e i think was running on Keihin FCRs. Although a 5e N/A tunned will be very nice for the starlet chassis, but not usable anyday. For daily, 4efte...nothing else...

Wait a second... Turning it down means probably going leaner...that's why it goes faster. But it's not safe. Normaly, when off the throtle, the ecu cuts all injectors so it not consuming fuel at all. If this happens, either your temp sensor is wrong or the tps is wrong. Check in diagnostic mode for errors and check the tps calibration.

Do you know what thread is that hole?

Let us know also the fitting size you used. Or maybe someone with a spare filter housing could check it.

Doesn't the lower temp affect the engine? I.e. doesn't the ecu run it richer? Heater works as it should? I use a 76c thermostat (bought for a about 20€) for a year and a half, what i see is that the engine does drink a bit more and the car is conciderable slower to warm up. Actually never gets to the middle, except idling for a prolonged time after having driven some distance. And i use the radiator from a ep70 1.5 diesel (half size, 2 row).

I checked and saw that they originaly is longer and ends in full circle. How the hose seals on it, being that shape?

From the pics, one of the IC inlets seems a bit bended out of shape...is it correct?

I'm having a leak from my distributor area. The outter o-ring is changed, the rocker cover seal is ok, so it has to be the inner one. Is there an online shop to sell rebuilt kits?

Asked just to clarify what we are talking about...

15" or 14"?

I wouldn't care...it is not that serious...from the pic uploaded...

Dinensions and core type, please.

I have a 2etelu engine from a ep71 and the sensor calibration is the same as the gt/glanza. Maybe the plug is different, but i don't think so...

The map sensor should be the same with a gt turbo/glanza. For the idle control valve, use a idle up soleinoid from aircon or the stock hi/low soleinoid.

Most turbo manuals and N/As have the 3wire one, actually it's not a tps, just a 2 position switch, idle and full open. Autos have always the 4wire tps, full variable resistance one. I thought that 20v 4age had 4wire ones.... Also, the 3wire is operating on a D shaped throttle axle, but 4wire one operate on a double latch type axle. When changing to 4wire for a standalone should need the tb also. Else a common colvern type tps will work on the place of 3wire sensor