AdamB

NGK heat range 7 mate. Part number is something like BKREIX7 off the top of my head.Got a set here in my toolbox actually if you want them?

Awesome man, you going Japfest? Will have to catch up with you pal. Yeah anything more than 260 degrees on a turbo motor is really for drag. That's a nice lift to have, anything between 8.7-9.2mm is good for a fast road setup

If that's the case then mate they'll have one, might have to buy a set though but not that expensive, plus the M10 spline will come in handy as no doubt you'll end up rounding a couple of M9's lol. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/7-piece-38-drive-extra-long-spline-bit-socke?da=1&TC=SRC-spline%20tool I got a M9 and M10 off ebay and they do the job, but if Machine Mart is close by you, you can get one there and then

Toyota. How fast do you need it? It's just an M9 spline tool, could be got from any tool place, but it needs to be like 100mm long.

Good to hear your happy with the new spec mate. I say it time and time again that people spec the wrong cams, you really need no more than 240 degrees on a road car. You may have lost 20bhp up top but I bet you gained a fair few ponies in the mid range to make up for it, that's why it feels so much better. What is the lift on these new cams?

Turbo is now on ebay, no one want to take a genuine 450bhp kit?

The advantage with CDI is that you don't have to wait for a coil to charge, all the charge is stored in a capacitor, which can then be discharged by just an on/off switch. Downsides are that its pretty costly requiring a standalone engine management system and a seperate CDI module, it also chews through spark plugs. You don't need to touch the ignition system unless your going for 1.7 bar or more on something like a td05 or bigger, or around the 370bhp mark. Theres literally no reason why a road car needs to run CDI ignition, it was only developed for race engines which use compression rat

Only Gauges, seats, panhard rod and exhausts system left.

He's using CDI ignition system with 4 coils. It depends how efficient your turbo and intercooler are, you'll probably find that on something like a td04 you'll get a fair amount of knock at 1.4 bar because it will start becoming a hair dryer. On a GT28 or GT30 2 bar would be possible with a good map.

Check here mate http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/9978-5efte-carbon-clad-submarine/?hl=harry#entry236375

You can alawys start off with a td04, then if you get addicted to drag racing go for some more power later on. A lot of the time though power isn't necessarily needed, you might want to check out a guy called -Harry- build thread, he's only running 240whp and managed an 11 second pass. You want to save as much weight as possible.

You should focus on getting a good chassis setup as well then along with some good sticky tyres.

That will be fine, will make for a very responsive fast road/track engine. You may even be slightly better off with a td05 because it will be more efficient than a td04 at 1.4 bar, but again depends on what you want to use it for and what power your aiming for. Your going to want some Wiseco 10cc dished pistons to get that CR on a 5E.

Depends what turbo and intercooler your going to use really. The more efficient they are ie the cooler the charge the higher the CR you can go without getting knock. 8.5:1 will still be good for well over 2 bar of boost on something like a T3/T4 turbo.

Do a search, been covered a million times. Its fine.

Depends what manufacturer your after really. Wiseco and Pauter are the best combination you can get off the shelf. Or another option would be some CP and Carillo gear.

Correct your right the volume of the cylinder increases, but the area (volume) above the piston doesn't change, this is the area where the gas gets compressed. The formula for working out the CR is CR = (CV+CCV) / CCV where CV is the cylinder volume, which if you increase the piston size the cylinder volume increases. The 4E is deffinately way too low on the CR imo, you only have to look at Honda's engines which are running 11:1 and making near enough 400whp at only like 9psi of boost. The only reason they can get away with it is because their peak cylinder pressures are lower.

Overwsized pistons increase the comrpession ratio slightly, and in terms of meat on the cylinder head I ment skimming the head excessively would result in valve to piston contact. To get up high you would need pistons with a raised dome on the crown and for turbo engine design/modification this isn't the best idea.

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You need to get innovative with getting the valve clearences correct with regrinds, and make sure they go through some hardnening process and your valve spring base pressures are correct or you'll chew through the lobes in no time at all. As said Tighe's are the best drop in cam available with a very wide range of specs or go custom. Unless your looking to make 350bhp+ I wouldn't waste your money, everyone seems to get the wrong cam specs and it changes the engines profile.

Depends what you class as high compression. I think you would be hard pushed to get anymore than 9.5:1 due to not being enough meat around the bores and cylinder head.

You need to get innovative with getting the valve clearences correct with regrinds, and make sure they go through some hardnening process and your valve spring base pressures are correct or you'll chew through the lobes in no time at all.

Studs are all well and good but are the most expensive. However they do last. Whether the headbolts can be re-used or not, they should always be measured for stretch and compared with manufacturers tolerences, if they are out of tolerence, then replace them

It can be a bit hit and miss with upgrading the FARB, it makes the front end stiffer but also increases the chance of understeer. It all depends on peoples driving style as to how they will react with a FARB. I know of a few cars that come out the factory with a FARB and people remove them altogether for better handling.

Their also laggy and don't make 1.4 bar till 5000rpm on a 4E.