AdamB

bump

I wouldn't spend the extra money on a GTX over a GT series, it's been proven that they spool the same and the billet wheel of the GTX doesn't decrease spool time and generally provides circa 10% more flow up top., A GT28 of somesort would be ideal, no bigger in trim size than the 71 size or you end up with a lot of lag and not much more power. It will touch you close to 400bhp. Or something custom like this http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/69854-brand-new-450bhp-custom-garrett-gt28-turbo-kit-new-pics/?hl=garrett Or if you want then best then this http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-6258-turbo.html But goodluck trying to find someone who will make a manifold for a reasonable price lol.

Leave it stock, you won't run into any trouble with a T25. It would cost a fair few quid to port a cylinder head properly, you would probably gain like 10bhp up top, but you will likely lose 30bhp low-mid range so if your chasing numbers then go for it, but for a nice road runner then leave the ports stock size.

Measure the valve to piston clearence then you can pick a headgasket. Thinner the better but depends on whos mapping it really.

Ecu adjusts the opening time of the injectors not the pressure. If you was going for an emu I would say save your money and get a standalone.

If you read the spec you get this as standard for your £2200 If you then want their forged pistons, rods cams , valve springs their all extra's on top of the £2200. From what it looks like the only thing they done is change the headgasket to something like 2mm-2.2mm and sold you an expensive engine that isn't even forged. Included: - Pistons and Piston Rings capable of 320PS - Resurfacing of the cylinder head and block - Crank and Con Rod Metal Bearings - Crankshaft resurfacing - Metal Head Gasket - Overhaul Gasket Kit - Port and Polish - Valve Alignment - Oil Element - NGK BKR6EY-11 Spark Plugs - See more at: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cruise-complete-zero-engine-5e.html#sthash.4wdF9Pp2.dpuf

tops

Bump

I think you would really benefit from getting it corner weighted mate, its fairly expensive but you'll notice a difference and you can take any further upgrades from there and use that as a base point knowing that you have good weight distribution.

Wrong way round mate, the automotive industry is compying what we do in motorsport, the ratio of race cars to road cars is prboably about 8 million to 1. Ayrton was a little bit before my time but there's no question he had something special that no one else has ever had and we are unlikely to see anything like it again, no matter how much the FIA try and take away downforce load etc

http://www.gwr-fasteners.co.uk/m6-gwr-colourfast-stainless-dome-nuts-16421-p.asp

5w is ok in the winter and offers greater start up protection, but most of the time 10w40 would be better. The closer the ratings the better really as its more stable and predictable.

You'll never completely eliminate roll, the starlet chassis itself isn't very torsionally ridgid so no matter how much you throw at suspension you will still get a lot of twisting in the chassis. What's your ride height like? Lowering the mass of the car will help

I would have gone with something like a megasquirt personally. Cheap and a full standalone unit, you will never understand fully what the hell is going on with a piggyback. Providing you understand how an engine works, what causes rich and lean situation, a long with understanding how knock is created and the ways to go about dealing with it you'll be fine. But theres a lot more to it than just plugging some numbers in a table. Oh and when you get round to it, spend a lot more time tuning the bottom end of the map rather than the top end because this is where the engine is most likely to sit on a day to day basis in the like 2000-4500rpm range.

That's wrong mate, I see this all the time as a miss-conception. You actually want a softer suspension setup to lap faster. The problem your having is with roll not with bump or droop therefore you want to adjust your anti roll bar. I'm currently designing a suspension and chassis setup for a hillclimb car and my spring rate is only 2.1 kg/mm and my anti roll bar has a stiffness of 12 kg/mm, thats with only a 10mm diameter bar.

Why would you want to run stiffer springs?

Bump want this gone so I can get a new car.

PM'd mate.

Pm'd back

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TRD or Kaaz to me, both were made under the same roof.

Like I say it depends on how its been built, by the time you get to 155k on any motor the piston rings will be leaking a fair amount of gas into the crankcase its worth a new set and a fresh set of bores. If you build a motor with tight tolerencing to make max power chances are it will only live a couple of a drag runs before leakage is deemed to be excessive.

Really depends how its built, but no reason why a forged engine can't do 155k miles, they do require stricter maintenence though so as long as its been looked after properly. 1.6/1.7 bar I thinks been the most on OEM headbolts.

Motec sold!