AdamB

Can only be mapped by Dastek dealers, thats not to say other tuners don't have the correct software though.

Depends on your driving style and the condition of your roads. It's just trial and error. Start with 28psi and see how you get on.

It's not something I would tend to entertain imo, I prefer to be out on the road in real world conditions rather than a simulated area, putting real load on the engine. Of course if you run the engine in on a dyno it will HAVE to be with a varying speed otherwise the bores get glazed and you end up having to start all over again with new rings and a new hone. That's the worst situation possible. You don't want to be sat at a constant speed when running an engine in, it doesn't force the rings out against the bore and the bores glaze over. Best thing to do is to do 5 runs at 40

Flat top pistons do not work as well as dished pistons in a turbo motor because of the quench area and flat tops retard flame travel, costing power at the crank. It depends on the turbo you use, the more efficient it is a long with an efficient intercooler, the higher you can go on the compression. Temperature is everything really.

240bhp with nitrous lol

370 or 430's, from an RX7 I think.

Providing you lay everything out the way it comes out the box you should have no problems

Synchro ring 1 - 33368‑12082 Synchro ring 2 - 33367‑12101 Synchro ring 3 - 33369‑12030

Maybe try changing the oil first? Might help a little. Iddy will most likely get his from Toyota

Bump

Personally I would drop the oil a bit earlier than 50 miles, around 20 miles is my preferred method, but everyone has their own way. Also depends on what your going to use the engine for, if its just a normal forged motor then I would probably stick to mineral oil till around the 1200-1300 mile mark then switch, if its a race engine it will be run in within 25 minutes.

Raise the compression, raise the rev limiter. Don't touch the cylinder head though, the ports are already way too large as it is, I dare to say you will even gain power if you made the ports smaller due to the increase in velocity so get better cylinder filling. Depends on your budget really though, could go ITB's, change the cams, change pistons etc.

As said above the 4EFE and 4EFTE cranks are the same, although they do share a different part number I believe as they are marked differently, the 4EFE crank is marked 4E and the 4EFTE crank is marked 4ET. The 5E cranks are the same as the 4E cranks in terms of what they can take, you have to remember though that the higher you rev the engine the more the crankshaft journal is going to flex and go oval, the same can be said for the rod journals so if your planning on skimming the head take into account that the rod will pull on the crank as it reaches TDC effectively the rod will stretch.

Ay the Synchro's themselves aren't that expensive, but I do believe the gears are quite pricey.

I don't think any performance parts were listed as optional, it was mainly cosmetic stuff I'm led to believe.

Competition Clutch, Spec clutch. If your going to be launching then I would recommend unsprung but makes it harsher to drive.

Toyota is the only place

TRD discontinued their coilovers quite some time ago, so getting parts is virtually impossible unfortunately

Just change the oil more often if you use semi

I would try and shape them using a thin flat blade screwdriver or a craftsman's knife, however I bet that the fins will just fall out as they are very brittle. It will certainly affect the cooling effect and your intake charge temps will likely be higher, that's what the fins are therefore is to help dissipate heat. It won't be doing no good either way, but unless you track the car and intake temps are a big factor in the running of your engine it probably isn't something worth worrying about massively.

I don't trust E series engines as far as I can throw em tbh, forging would always be high on my list of priorities and spanking £1000 into a stock engine seems a waste to me. I would be looking for a second hand forged motor, can pick them up for around £1500ish, always handy if you want to do more mods later on.

Probably best to get a video up mate. Does it only do it from cold? If so it could be the pistons or valve clearances.

Building a motor isn't hard at all, but when you start talking blueprinting that's when everyone throws their toys out the pram. 5E is far better in every way over the 4E imo, however its not HP you should be concerned with, its torque which is a more important factor and there's no replacement for displacement. I've got a 5E for sale sat here if your interested

There's nothing wrong with the gearbox, is down to chassis setup and the driver as to how a car handles. Do some suspension mods and get the geometry setup. What tyres are you using atm? Plus another thing, if your trying to put down power in the wet you got no chance, you just have to be moderate with the throttle.

Realistically you will be limited by the cams as to when they stop making power. Ideally you would need FTE valve springs but I probably wouldn't risk going past 8200rpm on a new set, or 7500 on a used set, if the car is going to be a race car then the valve springs I would probably change every 1000 miles. Would also recommend changing the mains and rod bolts to ARP. The crank should be good for 9500rpm providing it hasn't been ground or lightened in anyway.