AdamB

May well not have "blown" it yet, but with that much fuel flow and little air you can bet the engine is getting bore wash. Not lubricating the piston assembly correctly and contaminating the oil taking away its lubrication properties is a risky game.

Get better tyres or take your foot off the go pedal maybe? Its not an on/off switch.

Competition clutch and fidanza flywheel

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APEXi-AP-Engineering-Power-FC-ECU-Computer-Toyota-Starlet-EP82-4E-FTE-1989-1992-/261232666299?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd2ae26bb You would be mad to pay the price for an Apexi PFC tbh when for not much more you can get something like DTA,Omex Haltech Sprint etc.

You would be better off getting a package all under one roof tbh, but expect to wait around 6 months for it to be done lol. PS, wasn't your silver GT up for sale on facebook earlier?

Trial and error really as every car is different, around 7 or 8 is the most common though. You want the lowest setting without it hitting fuel cut. Fuel pressure setup you'll need an air/fuel ratio gauge to judge, and a set of det cans/knockbox to monitor knock levels.

Bump

Oil pressure, oil temp and water temp are the main ones to have. An AFR gauge is also handy. I got a set of STRI gauges for sale if your interested mate, much like Defi.

Depends what material and thicknesses you want to weld mate. If you want to weld aluminum your going to need an AC/DC TIG which bumps the cost up considerably, then you need to factor in the cost to run pure argon. If your just looking to piss about on some steel then a normal DC TIG will do the job. I would advise to get something with HF start otherwise you will no doubt end up sticking the tungsten to the work piece and have to resharpen it all the time, you will soon lose interest in TIG trust me. Something like these work well and not too pricey. http://www.weldequip.com/tecarc-186i-dc.htm http://www.weldequip.com/inverter-fusion-tig.htm I would also recommend a foot pedal, it makes life so much easier and control is better.

What do you mean size? Their all the same aren't they?

The 400bhp comes from the internal combustion engine only.

Bump, will split the kit as well

Don't think so mate, best to drop Iddy a pm and he'll sort you out. Their only a few quid anyway.

If heat was a major factor with the engine at idle, think of what would happen with the engine at full load with 124 bar/1800psi of pressure being exerted on the gasket with combustion temps getting to 1000 degrees. You'd be blowing headgaskets every time you went over 1400rpm lol. The gasket will age and fatigue going through various cycles for sure though.

No, unless there is a problem with your cooling system, ie the fan not cutting in.

Id-Workz or Toyota

The biggest killer to headgaskets is detonation. Ways to prevent are to O-ring the block, this exerts a greater compressive load on the gasket when the head is clamped down. Use a gasket which is able to deform under load, something like a composite made up of steel, copper and asbestos. Something with a steel fire ring is recommended. Another option is to have slots milled in the block, although this is a fairly crude way of doing things any gas that gets past the gasket will not show any symptoms of headgasket failure. There are a few other more complex methods such as sleeving the block, or welding the cylinder head but for road applications virtually all of these is not worth being used. Take the fact that the headgasket is designed to fail, if it didn't you would have to replace the entire engine at more costly expense.

Technically not, its only used as a backup whilst the Energy Recovery System (ERS) charges the batteries for the electric motor. Either that or they just use the 1.5 litre engine to charge the batteries, whichever way they want to work it I guess. Nope V6 1.5 litre engine designed by a lecturer at my uni, however was never put into production for F1 because they deemed it ludicrous lol.

In terms of A/F ratio somewhere around 11.5-12.0 but depends on the boost pressure, intake temps, coolant temps, air density, knock levels etc. A map is represented in injector opening time in milliseconds (ms) so you'll just have to adjust it accordingly until you get the desired air/fuel ratio.

I'm guessing their the same, but you will need to ensure they have the correct number of splines as the spline count varies on production years.

The most impressive thing is the fact it weighs so little, but you have to question if every part is made lighter to reach the 40kg weight goal how many fatigued cycles can the engine go through before a component fails. Still not as impressive as getting 2000bhp from a 1.5 litre engine

It's around 15%ish losses through the transmission on a FWD motor. Why do you need to know the fly power? It's the power at the wheels that counts. Besides dynos read wheel power then convert to fly power on the overrun.

Yeah their the same

Sure are mate

Yeah that's the positive. I'm sure the earth is strapped to the inner wing, well it was on mine.