AdamB

It can but the MHI turbo's are different to the Subaru flanges. Aren't they twin scroll as well? Probably be pretty laggy tbh, they don't even work that well on an Evo lol.

A rising rate fpr regulates the fuel pressure based on the pressure it sees from the manifold. There's no difference whether you run the stock fpr at stock fuel pressure or run an aftermarket at 2.3 bar, both are going to be at the same pressure. If you set the fpr with the vac line off this is its base pressure under atmospheric conditions ie 1 bar. If you set it with the vac line on this base pressure may be altered because the manifold pressure may be in vacuum when you set it giving a lean conditions at WOT. Although some people have tried both and say its made no difference so just m

Try these guys, their wilwood dealers so should be able to point you in the right direction http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=562&osCsid=l6m10grc44lcs6hjtebnfvsmn0 Or these, plenty of options. http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/index.html

I really wouldn't bother with cams, especially regrounds. Really aren't needed and people pick them for the wrong reason. Yes the springs fit and yes they are stiffer but depends where you go as different manufacturers use different material which will change the spring rate. How high do you want to go on the revs? Don't forget that a stiffer spring saps engine power and also wears the cam lobes quicker and harsher.

What turbo and fuel are you using? I would have thought you might be able to get a few more degrees of advance in there than 24, although it is pretty much bang on for a road going turbo motor.

No cams won't fit, quite obvious the cams are different since the E series is only a single cam (realisticly). Cams can be had cheap anyway if you know where to look, although in my opinon cams aren't needed till well over 350bhp, and there's bigger restriction than the cams. But yes buckets, valve guides, valve stem seals, retainers, springs are the same. The springs have the same free length as the E series so they fit no problem, and also have the same base seat pressure So no need to go milling the cylinder head or adding shims to adjust the base pressure.

The entire valvetrain bar the valves as they are much longer in the stem, although if you wanted to get creative you could have the stem turned on a lathe and have the collet locks cut back in, but not worth it imo. Oh and there's a lot more upgrades for the 4AGE in terms of valve train components and at much cheaper prices than traders have advertised

If you look closer you will also find a lot more parts that are interchangeable from the 4AGE

They are the same, both engines use 6mm diameter valves.

Beautiful ! I love something thats different

Bump

You will be fine just running the 2" to the turbo so just worry about the cold side really. Also try to avoid any angles, a 90 degree bend equates to an estimate of a loss in power by 5%, that includes adding up the angles, ie 3 x 30 degree bends.

Jeez what a shit time you've had Marc, can't believe that very little evidence was provided and no common ground was met. It's one reason why I always stick to the philosophy of " if you want something done, do it yourself".

Last bump before the turbo goes on ebay.

2" is fairly small roughly only good for around 260-280bhp. 2.25" will be good for around 350bhp and 2.5 inch good upto 450bhp. Although it will depend on the surface roughness of the pipe due to frictional losses. Just to add from my previous post about throttle body sizing, to make 350bhp+ you'll need a minimum of 60mm, that will be good for upto 380ish.

Common problem, can be welded no problem but trying to find someone whos willing to take it on might be a little trickier.

The manifold itself isn't a bad job in fairness, although it depends where in the rev range you want the power. Obviously the stock manifold has quite long runners so it brings the powerband down. Some manifolds have been known to take over 400bhp. I'm not 100% sure on any that fit without modification, but I've heard the Skyline ones fit pretty damn well. Other than that possibly an SR20 or a 3SGTE but unsure on the size of that.

Agree with Rob, I wouldn't pour a shed load of money into one, but having one at a reasonable spec is nice and doesn't have to cost the earth.

It's the throttle body which restricts a lot of flow, for over 350bhp you really need a 65mm throttle body off the top of my head. I dare say there will be gains to be had even if slightly lower than 350bhp.

I would have it the other way round, water is a better conductor of heat than oil. Oil's primary job is to lubricate, it being able to do cooling as well is a secondary task. I would always run water cooling whenever possible.

From what I've seen its only really large turbo frames that offer twin scroll setups, ie GT30 upwards. A GT30 on its own is going to be laggy. Someone over on TGTT tried a IHI TD05 twinscroll with a custom manifold and it didn't work out too bad, but for the warrant of extra cost (especially fabricated in this part of the world) there was no benefit at all.

Well that depends on a lot of things like fuel used, what intercooler, what diameter intercooler pipes, what size exhaust, what the engine timing was etc etc the list is endless really. What power was it making at 1.2 bar? Generally the heads restrict flow around the 350bhp mark , which is about the range you would expect a t28 turbo to stop making power, possibly a little before. It's hard to say really as it will be dependent from engine to engine, no one really does cylinder head work properly so getting a volumetric flow at which the head restricts is hard to say . I guess that this is

You would need to sent them the turbo mate because its longer than the usual Garrett turbo's by 3 inches, even though it uses the same T25 flange as the likes of GT28/GT30 etc it shifts the downpipe positioning . Race-Tech wanted over £1000 for a mani and downpipe combo when I was going to get one, that's why I said reasonable haha. If your interested I could potentially hook you up with an idea that I was going to do but would need a bit of fabrication work to get it to fit It's alright having 400bhp and isn't hard to do, it's just that its not practical to do so, there's no replacem

Set the boost setting ( it's a percentage on the blitz units) first till you get the desired boost of 0.8 bar. Then raise the gain from 0 up till when it starts spiking then back it off a few percent, but all depends on how you want the boost to come in really as Rob said

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