AdamB

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There is no such thing as the best filter, you have to make a compromise, you either filter or flow, it can't do both. K&N are the best imo, I've seen them flow very well even when they are caked in shit (although not advised) I would stay away from foam filters as they are very poor at filtering, plus they are quite high maintenance having to be cleaned and oiled every 6000 miles. Cotton gauze filters are some of the best.

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DC2's are very good cars, however finding one that hasn't got rusty aches and sills is very hard and even then they still fetch £4k of thereabouts.

Depends what you want to use the car for really. Honda's are so much more reliable and will always handle better than a Starlet, yes they are that bit more expensive but for those exact reasons due to the R&D that went into them in the first place. I like the B series engines, quality for a track car however I much prefer the K series for a daily drive or round town hooning just because its so much easier to drive, much smoother etc. If you can best thing to do is go and drive one or a couple and make up your mind that way

Their probably regrinds, think you can get the cams reground for £160. Problem then is getting the correct valve clearances as they are a bastard to do!

Wouldn't really need cams on that spec engine really, although if you are chasing numbers then stick with stock duration and go for more lift, something around 8.8mm on the intake and 9.2mm on the exhaust. I'd be putting the money towards a custom intake manifold and larger throttle body rather than cams tbh, turbo engines are the most fussy when it comes to cam specs and manufacturers spend millions on R&D, I don't see the need to change it.

Can get regrinds from places like Pipercams, but regrinds are a waste of time, plus a set of billets over here would cost an arm. Ivan Tighe are the best and have plenty of off the shelf specs to choose from. Whats your engine spec? 99.9% of people don't need cams or choose the wrong cam specs and it makes the engine worse.

This, Ross pistons also slap from cold.

Depends how you've run it in, I wouldn't be changing from mineral oil till around the 1500 mile mark. I did write a little piece on running in engines and oil change schedules, I'll see if I can find it. Edit. Here it is, post number 4. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/69965-running-in-fresh-4efte/?hl=mineral#entry991069

Not gonna be too good with that rear beam still in it :crazy:

Still here...

Depends how hard the water is in your area, where I am I have some of the hardest water in the country Im led to believe. The jet size was also quite small so probably a mixture of a few different things, but like I said this wasn't a branded kit so I would say those from the likes of Aquamist/AEM to be of much better quality.

It was purchased as a new kit mate, it wasn't a branded one that just used a brass jet, not sure if that was the possible cause for the clogging or not. It might just have been due to the water I was running, even though distilled could still have been quite hard and chalky.

I didn't think PEC made their own branded pistons for the E series engine, their website only lists Wossner products mate. I never said Wossner were bad, and they would all fail or fail to provide the satisfactory level of reliability or performance. All I said was that there are better out there with the likes of CP, Arias, JE and for "off the shelf" for E series I think Wiseco are the best.

I know Methanol is a fuel and yes I have used a water injection kit previously on another engine and it made very little performance gains at all without a map and was more hassle than it was worth because the jet kept clogging up with shit even when using distilled water. I never used Meth so can't really comment on that side of things, I can't see it making a massive difference in spool time though without logging it but I don't think any decrease in spool would be through the change in air temp, and it will also depend on the Meth % mixture. That's a diesel engine which run very small tu

Just to add to this, I had a spare set of NGK Iridium's sat in my toolbox and I gapped them today and preset out of the box they were gapped to 0.7mm which is way too tight.

PEC just use Wossner pistons. Wossner are ok and are used by many, they wouldn't be my number 1 choice though. They run a higher silicone content than that of others which is great for road use because you get less piston slap which is not even noticeable by the use of running tighter piston-wall clearences. However the greater silicone content also makes them more brittle when subjected to detonation. Their piston crown design is ok, but there is better out there.

Stronger spark, better fuel economy, longer lasting.

Did you ever log a boost plot vs rpm or time? I find it hard to believe that it would spool to 2 bar in a quarter of the time. Air density at 20 degrees is 1.204 kg/m3, if you knocked off 10 degrees of air temp that would take the density of air to 1.247 kg/m3, it's hardly like the substance of treacle to notice that much of an improvement. Of course you will need more fuel! If your decreasing the air temperature there is going to be more oxygen present ie greater air density, more oxygen requires more fuel or it will run lean.

Anything below 140psi requires a rebuild ideally. Providing results for each cylinder are within 1 bar or 14.5 psi of each other then it's fine. I personally wouldn't be using anything more than a 1.2mm headgasket on these engines, compression is already too low as it is imo.

£2000

Put another 50 notes to that and you can get some billet cams in any spec you want. GLWS though mate, first set I've seen for sale for quite some time tbh!

More lift and less duration is what most turbo engines prefer. Depends what the cars used for really, I would tend to say stick with stock cams though, they are more than capable for 99% of people's needs.

Not quite true, you increase the efficiency of the compressor but it doesn't make it spool faster. If your going to mix it in with your petrol it's best to measure it out by weight rather than volume because the volume of a substance changes with temperature. Would be better and less hassle to run a injection kit imo, you can run more than one nozzle as well, one before the turbo compressor increasing the compressors efficiency and one after the intercooler which effectively increases the efficiency of the cooler giving you more dense air. Whichever way you want to go though